Getting my ducks in a row

[Regulator1175]

I stand corrected. Thanks for clearing that up Dave.

[Shdwdrgn]

Cool, thanks for all the answers. It sounds like I'll probably stick with my stock disconnect for now, but I'll let you guys know once I decide...

@Eris ... "ATP disconnect and Doorman actuator", do you have a link for info on this, and can you tell me how much this setup cost you? I had no idea there were alternatives available.

I have Mark's 3/4" spacers up front, however with the weight of the steel bumper (and I haven't even added a winch yet), I'm sagging back down towards the stock profile. I think once I finish up with the gear change, I'll take some measurements and have Mark make a custom sized front lift to bring the front end up just a bit below the rear (so I'm still sitting level when the back end is loaded with gear). I've always thought SUVs looked better when they ride level, and that will give me a little more clearance if I decide to bump up the tire size again. Even with that bit of lift, however, I still don't think I'll be putting any undue stress on the disconnect.

[dvanbramer88]

I stand corrected. Thanks for clearing that up Dave.

I have Mark's 3/4" spacers up front, however with the weight of the steel bumper (and I haven't even added a winch yet), I'm sagging back down towards the stock profile. I think once I finish up with the gear change, I'll take some measurements and have Mark make a custom sized front lift to bring the front end up just a bit below the rear (so I'm still sitting level when the back end is loaded with gear). I've always thought SUVs looked better when they ride level, and that will give me a little more clearance if I decide to bump up the tire size again. Even with that bit of lift, however, I still don't think I'll be putting any undue stress on the disconnect.

Sounds like a plan. And you'll probably be alright in regards to the disconnect.

[ErikSS]

ATP on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/ATP-111001-Front- ... p+actuator

Doorman on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Axle-Diff ... 70&vxp=mtr

These are the best prices I can find.

[Shdwdrgn]

OK this may be an odd question, but is the silver color a standard for the ATP parts? I just ask because both the disconnect and the differential I received are painted silver, which I thought seemed strange. Then again, it may just be something that salvage yard does to their parts...

[dvanbramer88]

Are you sure they are painted? Both parts (disconnect and differential) are "bare" or unfinished cast aluminum from the factory.

[v7guy]

The biggest cause for failure sends to be it suddenly slamming it in to 4wd. It's a big shock to the system. Of course as with everything when your lifted, there's more stress on everything. Much like with the lunch box locker, it's suddenly slamming everything into a locked position. It's just a huge shock load which is the worst kind of load.

The sleeve does keep everything in line and there's a significantly reduced load on the bearings since there's not really any side load (comparatively). Obviously there is a slight reduction in gas mileage, which was the reason for it being implemented in the first place, but it has far less impact than any of the other mods we do to these vehicles.

In my case, with flipped upper arms the limitation is the spindle hitting the spring, the cv turns fine and there is a good bit more travel available when the spring is removed. The upper ball joint angle still needs some attention, but I think we mostly need some longer arms to get the spindle away from the spring/shock.Obviously none of these things is something you'll be concerned with given your current lift

[Shdwdrgn]

Are you sure they are painted? Both parts (disconnect and differential) are "bare" or unfinished cast aluminum from the factory.

Yeah definitely. When I first got the pieces, I thought they had been power-washed or something -- through the saran wrap they looked like brand new components. Then when I unwrapped them, it was obvious they were actually painted silver. Someone basically wadded up some saran wrap and shoved it inside the seals, then painted right over everything, including the outside of the seals. The same thing was done with the disconnect. I'm honestly surprised they didn't paint the piece of axle silver as well, but at least it doesn't appear that any paint got *inside* the units.

[ErikSS]

The ATP units are brand new. No paint. They claim to have upgraded some of the common to fail components. I only know that mine has worked well for a year. I had the AWD sleeve in mine. Releasing it there is the only way I get 2wd. The full size transfercase that I have sends power to the front even when in 2wd. They expect the front disconnect to release giving me 2wd.

[Shdwdrgn]

OK my helper decided to be sick again today, so I'm going in solo. Everybody's standing by on call in case I get in a bind, right? Wish me luck.

[ErikSS]

You can do it! (it's my best cheerleader impression, did you like it?) haha

[Shdwdrgn]

ok progress is disappointingly slow... however I have the disconnect out on the bench and almost disassembled. HOW do I get the outside seal out? I punched the bearing from inside and have it flopping against the seal, but I can't get the seal to budge.

Also, I read I'm supposed to remove the center axle from the disconnect side of the oil pan, but it doesn't seem to want to move, and I have no idea how I would grab ahold of it except with my fingertips...

[dvanbramer88]

Since no one helped you yet I think you can thread a bolt into the end of the intermediate shaft and than pull on that with vise grips.

As far as the disconnect oil seal goes. Don't be shy with a BIG screwdriver and start working it. I don't remember it being that big of a PITA when I rebuilt Josh's disco.


EDIT: according to fishsticks, the bolts that hold the PCM on are the same thread pattern as the threaded hole in the intermediate shaft. You can use one of those.

[Shdwdrgn]

Thanks for the reply... I had just got the seal pounded out of the disconnect finally, and parts are sitting in the cleaner now. That will really help knowing the thread size for the shaft. Taking a short break, then finish up the disconnect and figure out how much more work I have ahead to get the differential out. Over four hours already, and I haven't even started unbolting the diff yet

[Shdwdrgn]

So... suggestions on getting the half-shaft out of the differential? I have the intermediate shaft pulled out, but can't get the half-shaft to budge. Been prying against the tripot with a crowbar, but I don't see that its moved at all.

[ErikSS]

It requires a hammer type motion. A slamming outward direction.

[dvanbramer88]

Lay on the ground under the LCA. Look up, you'll see some holes/slots in the LCA/subframe area. Stick a giant screw driver up through one of those slots behind the half shaft. Use the slot as a fulcrum and hit the screw diver with a hammer. A few good smacks should pop the C-clip.

EDIT:




You can see the slots and hole I'm talking about here. I found that to be the easiest way to pry/pop the CV out of the differential and disconnect.

[dvanbramer88]

Also, when you re-assemble. Get some good grease on the splines of the half shafts and they'll probably be easier to remove next time.

[Moots1288]

So... suggestions on getting the half-shaft out of the differential? I have the intermediate shaft pulled out, but can't get the half-shaft to budge. Been prying against the tripot with a crowbar, but I don't see that its moved at all.

I use a piece of re bar and a sledge and it'll come right out.

[Shdwdrgn]

I'm trying to follow Regulator's suggestion for pulling the diff up through the engine compartment... Everything is loose on the bottom end (finally got the half-shaft out, and the diff is unbolted and popped loose from the pan)... HOW do you pull out the fan? I see four bolts on the pulley, and four bolts holding the blade to the fan clutch... but I don't see how the fan actually comes out?