Chugging when driving

[navigator]

.....If nothing else, check your actuator per the flow chart before doing anything else. It is relatively simple and worth the few minutes. It's much simpler than replacing sparks and coils.

Cheaper too!

BTW how long since your last oil change? Dirty oil is known to clog the actuator which will throw the code etc.
If it has been awhile, change the oil and clean the actuator else you put dirty oil back in there.

[Cable810]

I have another 2k to go before a change. But the vehicle has sat for close to a year. Dunno if that would have any affect on anything or not.

[HARDTRAILZ]

Huge effect.

[navigator]

Caleb, don't you drive this thing daily?
How did it sit for a year?

[Cable810]

Ok today the Check Engine Light came twice and flashed each time. One flashed about 5-8 times and the next time I saw it flash once.
I'm just now starting to drive it daily. It sat in storage(in our Gargage) for a year. As we were driving our grandpas Buick(More Fuel efficent)

[Cable810]

Got it scanned p0127 and p0303.

So.... now what....

[Cable810]

Gunna try this and see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjL_Wefla0s

[navigator]

how many miles(wild guess) have you put on it since you got it out of storage?
what is your temp running by your temp gauge after it warms up?
I only see one reference online about p0127 in a TB and it appears from you running low temp which usually means you need a new Tstat/sender. All other hits refered to a high intake temp. I'm unsure if there is a temp sensor there for us or not.

Do you actually notice it missing or do you just get a code?

Swapping the coils/plugs can help you isolate an issue but you'll have to swap them and then immediately go to the parts store and get the codes read to know if the miss is on a different cylinder.

Missing could be a lack of fire, poor timing or poor compression. I'm guessing if it was poor timing you would get a generic missfire code P0300 instead of a specific P0303. That makes me think it is either the coil, the plug, compression or related to some sensor which is throwing the p0127 code.

Have you checked your oil for coolant and coolant for oil?
Is your coolant staying the same level?

here is what I would do...
1. check oil and coolant to see if there is a mix. see if coolant level is low. Do it first when the engine is cool.- cost $0.
2. check your running temp. If 210 then check into the miss more, if running low, replace tstat and temp sender. - cost $0
3. if you still have a miss/P0303 change the plugs if you haven't already, if you still get a miss do the coil swap trick. - Cost $35
4. if you still have a miss do a compression check. You can get a cheap gauge from HF - cost $25.

[Cable810]

Ok I did as the video showd. Once I drove it around and ther was no chugging or anything. Nice firm takeoff not being hesitent like it was before.

I will do that Chris once I get it scanned again

[Cable810]

No codes were present

[Trail X]

Ok I did as the video showd. Once I drove it around and ther was no chugging or anything. Nice firm takeoff not being hesitent like it was before.

If this is indeed the case, I can only think that there was a loose connection someplace.

I also saw conflicting reports on the P0127. Some said intake air temp, some said coolant temp. It might have been caused by your IAT connector not being hooked up.

Also, when you changed your spark and coil, did you unhook the battery? If so, that could potentially explain the smooth running. The PCM has to relearn the fine tune setups after the battery is disconnected for 30 minutes. It's known in some circles as the "dealership fix".

Hope your issues are resolved. I'm still not convinced that the P0014 won't come back. But you might be lucky.

[Cable810]

I didn't even disconnect the battery... I'll get to cleaning the Actuator Selunoid maybe tomorrow after work!

[Cable810]

1. check oil and coolant to see if there is a mix. see if coolant level is low. Do it first when the engine is cool.- cost $0.

There seemed to be no mix of the 2. Coolant was at the normal levels.

2. check your running temp. If 210 then check into the miss more, if running low, replace tstat and temp sender. - cost $0
Its just under 210 like 2-5 ticks.

3. if you still have a miss/P0303 change the plugs if you haven't already, if you still get a miss do the coil swap trick. - Cost $35
Swaped the Coils and plugs Problem solved.

4. if you still have a miss do a compression check. You can get a cheap gauge from HF - cost $25.

[navigator]

if you are under 210 then go ahead and plan to change the thermostat and temperature sender.
It causes you to run rich which robs you of gas mileage and can expedite O2 sensor and catalytic converter failure.

Read up on it. It's not a hard job as much as it is a pain. Some folks can take it off through the wheel well, I had to unhook my alternator and then was able to remove the bolts through the wheel well.

It is a good time to replace your serp belt and hoses and coolant if you don't know the history.

[Cable810]

The only history I know is my Parents bought it from my moms Brother... I've got a Chiltons manual seems easy enough! I'm gunna switch back the coils and plugs and see what happens... Do our trucks like a certian Temp sender and thermostate??

[navigator]

I'll let others chime in here on brands. I think I put a Stant Tstat from Advance Auto in mine.
I also bought their sender but forgot to install it . The Tstat fixed my problem so I will take the sender back.

[Trail X]

I thought your problem went away?

How long did you drive the vehicle before you checked the coolant temp? It takes about 5 minutes of DRIVING, minimum to get an engine up to operating temp. I would only trust a temp reading after driving for 15 minutes or so to allow it to stabilize.

From your codes, however, I see no reason to check any of that, nor replace it yet.

[Cable810]

The readin was about 15minutes of driving. Problems are gone (fingers crossed). Switched the coils and plugs back. Gunna see if the problems arise with moving them back.

[Cable810]

Problem has come back............ doesn't seem to be any worse. Only chugging around 47-55mph. When I step on it there is no back firing and she isn't sluggish. Cleaned the CPAS bout a week ago.

Here is whaat I'm thinking: with stepping on the accelerator and increasing the rpms between 2k and 2.5k the problem stops. Which is makin me believe that it could be something to do with a cylinder due to "flooding" the cylinders when accelerating
I'm gunna get it scanned and see if somethin is there..

[Cable810]

Got it scanned yesterday and it showed a p0013....