Flipping the drivers side UCA Help

[mikekey]

Anyone have any recommendations for getting the bolt that is facing the front of the vehicle out of the upper control arm. We're in the process of doing our lift finally and I thought I'd flip the UCA's. Got all the bolts out except this one, it hits inner sheet metal and from the threads, I haven't heard any of you mention this.

[Cable810]

Towrds the Engine or where you sit? All I did when I flipped mine was bend the sheet metal. Check my I'm 100% Lifted thread I think I explained how I got em out.

[Cable810]

Cause if its the one towrds the engine just take some BIG pliers or something that you can bend the sheet metal. Just bend it enough to get the bolt out.

[The Roadie]

It's been discussed. Sheet metal is bendable for a reason.

The designers goofed. Even the factory shop manual says the tech has to bend the sheet metal to replace the UCAs. The suspension designers never went back to see if everything was serviceable with the body on. If it wasn't that it didn't need much bending, the shop manual would have required us to yank the body to change the UCA. Dumb designers.

PS: It's easier with a body lift. Everything is easier with a body lift (plugs, struts, UCAs).

[mikekey]

I didn't fid it to bendable personally. I asked cause I tried that, but I just said f* it, pulled a bubba and took my cut off wheel and notched it. So I'm done. Thanks however guys.

[Cable810]

No problem!

[The Roadie]

20" Channel locks FTW. Or 2 ft+ pipe wrenches. Such a versatile tool, good for all sorts of death and destruction!

[mikekey]

Now onto the rear lift. But first, firehouse subs.

[Cable810]

Wow I didn't have to bend my sheet metal that much. Or Big Azz pliers work too

[navigator]

driver side I ended up cutting with a saber saw then the blade broke. On the passenger side I bent and pounded them enough to do the swap.

[v7guy]

I used a prybar and a 5lb sledge to "gently persuade" the metal out of the way.