Maint. blues

[The Roadie]

Multiple sources show that as the right part, though. Maybe a new item in the aftermarket? ALmost every other part for that differential has an aftermarket alternative. Somebody should buy one to see if it has the tangs.

[Flying Monkey]

Ill stop by there after my appt today and see. That way I can try to get it done tomorrow

[Flying Monkey]

Special order part. Should be here in 2-4 days. Guess National (their normal seal supplier) does not list it so had to get from different seal company which is special order. They called local dealer and same thing, had to order. So just let Oreilly's order it for me since I try to do all my maintenance business with them.

[Flying Monkey]

Picked the seal up today and it does have the prongs on the in-diff side.

[Flying Monkey]

Im getting good at tearing that front end down lol. 90 min roughly start to finish. This time went ahead and took strut assembly out to make it easier to get seal puller in there. Seal came out with minimal pain. When I put strut back in I figured id check the torque on the other side and glad I did. After taking out the CAI to get at the 1 nut, I found they were both a tad loose. So checked everything else and those were the only nuts that loosened up on me.

Refilled diff and went on a test drive switching from 2-4wd a few times and seems to all be working just fine....and no leak when I got home!

Took a week leave next week so now that the diffs are done, installing tranny cooler, new filter and Dextron 6 fluid, Transfer case fluid and about time for oil change so figured do that while its in garage. Then working on mocking up a project Ive been wanting to do for awhile. Ill make a thread if it works out lol

[fishsticks]

Since my last little incident with breaking the AWD sleeve, I had just pulled the axles out and ran 2WD for a time. (Laziness, shrug). I took the disconnect out Saturday to put the parts in that I had acquired from folks here.

It was much more difficult to get out than normal, and I was afraid I was going to end up like a few on here with a piece of mine stuck in the oil pan.

Turns out that wasn't the case. My inner housing is broken, but instead of breaking the "normal" way, it broke perpendicular to the seal/bearing surface. It's only held together by the bolts going into the oil pan. It left the inner seal on the intermediate shaft when I pulled it out. Whoops.

Emptied the remainder of the carnage out of the housing and stuffed it full of paper towels. Reinstalled for now.

Pondered SAS again. Meh. I'll just buy an ATP AWD disco I guess.

I've been saving for Longfields and a Spartan locker for the front of the Yota. I wanted to get that done by Memorial day. Now I have to decide if I want to fix the TB more or continue on my planned route.

Stupid IFS.

[Flying Monkey]

Yeah definitely my last IFS

[Flying Monkey]

Just installed Transmission cooler, changed fluid (to Dex 6) and filter. Went with a compression fitting set up similar to JD's. Hoping that cures my temp problem on highway and driving up the mountains some. Thinking tomorrow Ill change engine oil and filter. Might be going trail riding this weekend if my buddy still wants to go, he had a death in his close family end of last week and funeral was today.

[wink]

I have an odd situation regarding oil capacities.

Engine is supposed hold 7qts. Well every oil change the dipstick says full at 6qts. After driving it for a day I recheck it, still full.

Front diff is supposed to hold 2qts. Well did my first oil change on the diff and after 1qt it was full.

Rear diff held 2qts just fine.

Any Ideas?

[Flying Monkey]

My motor definitely takes a full 7 quarts. My front diff took about 1 1/2 bottles. The bottles were like .947 liters or something. Only remember that do to looking up the conversion to the pints called out in the chiltons.

[Trail X]

Kevin, the level indicators (trans, engine, diffs) are rather sensitive to inclines. If you're checking yours on any incline, it will show up a little off (and any rake outside of the factory amount will affect it too).

[wink]

Levels are checked on flat ground. Being a full quart off do to rake alone seems a bit much, and engine oil has been off since i got the truck (pre lift).

[Trail X]

Do you turn over your engine real quick when draining? That will release a bit more fluid.

Are you counting the oil you put in the filter?

I think I've almost always ended up putting about 7.5 qts in total.

[wink]

I don't turn the engine over, but that is counting the filter. I'm more concerned about the front diff. as it is only holding half of what it is supposed to.

[steveroche]

Well after my recent trip to new Hampshire I have a nice list of things that have been replaced on the side of the road when my belt snapped and things I'll be doing today. Serpentine belt, tensioner pulley, driver side wheel hub, driver side lower ball joint, driver side brake caliper, interior carpet needs ripping out.

[dvanbramer88]

I have an odd situation regarding oil capacities.

Engine is supposed hold 7qts. Well every oil change the dipstick says full at 6qts. After driving it for a day I recheck it, still full.

Front diff is supposed to hold 2qts. Well did my first oil change on the diff and after 1qt it was full.

Rear diff held 2qts just fine.

Any Ideas?

Do you have the V8? The V8 only holds 6 quarts.

EDIT: (Checked your build thread, never mind)

[navigator]

Changed my oil this morning, I had about 8500 miles on synthetic.
I also changed my Tstat, hoses and coolant. At about 98k miles I figure I was due.
I wasn't able to use the several extensions/wobble head method to get mine out.
I had to remove the bolts from the bracket that allows for the engine removal, remove the two top alternator bolts and loosen the bottom alternator bolt enough to roll the alternator forward enough to get to the top Tstat bolt.
Buttoned it back up and only had 2 issues.
1, I lost the back bolt on that engine removal bracket, ughhh but I figure I don't really need it unless I am going to pull the engine.
2, I forgot to replace the temp sender while I was in there so I'll just wait and see if I need it. My temp reads 210 straight up now.
It will be interesting to see if I gain any mpg.
Also, I was sweating so bad that I touched something and it shocked me even though I had removed the negative terminal.

[NC_IslandRunner]

Well....I'm about tired and feelin a little dumb. I went to fix my A/C this evening and I read the post on this on the OS a few weeks ago but it has holes in it and I didn't reread it today so that doesn't help.

Disconnected the the actuator and plugged in the new one....Nothing......Google foo informs me there are 5 of these damn actuators in the dash and I replaced the wrong one!

Will continue this headache sunday night when I get back from Bowling in Columbia SC. I do believe the post on the OS tells which one to replace and will be reading again.

[bdp1978]

Havent been on this site in awhile, busy summer.

My Air Pump Quit Whining the other day - which we know is a bad sign. Then this morning I got the dreaded 410 code on my way to work.


SONOVA!!!! 3rd Air Pump in less than a year, wish I could just rip the damn thing out and somehow bypass the check engine light.

[HARDTRAILZ]

Havent been on this site in awhile, busy summer.

My Air Pump Quit Whining the other day - which we know is a bad sign. Then this morning I got the dreaded 410 code on my way to work.


SONOVA!!!! 3rd Air Pump in less than a year, wish I could just rip the damn thing out and somehow bypass the check engine light.

You can w a pcmforless tune.