Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Maint. blues

Trailblazer and Envoy related, but not off-road related...

by fishsticks » Mon Feb 13, 2012 1:10 pm

navigator wrote:so just popping the upper ball joint out gives enough play to remove the axle? I saw in another thread someone post that they thought the xtra weight helped with removal by providing more leverage.

I'll try it and see what happens.



Yes and yes. You may need to disconnect the swaybar endlink if it hangs up the LCA.
I own too many vehicles now. Let's leave it at that.
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by navigator » Mon Feb 13, 2012 1:33 pm

sounds good, thanks for the tip.
I might also try the other side and check out the disconnect, hopefully get some grease in there before I have issues like so many others.
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by bdp1978 » Mon Feb 13, 2012 2:35 pm

navigator wrote:shipping took 2 minutes or replacing the seal?
I'm actually dreading the seal.
It looks like I'll have to pull the hub and axle at least.
The hub is basically new so it shouldn't be too hard to get back off.
I'm dreading pulling the axle though.
I tried to pull the side with the disconnect and couldn't get it free. I didn't try real hard though



HA, sorry it didnt translate well. The Shipping took 2 minutes....for the guy to walk to the shelf and back. Changing the seal is easy though. The Slide Hammer is your friend.
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by fishsticks » Mon Feb 20, 2012 1:07 pm

Whee... One of my U joints going bad... again.
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by Trail X » Mon Feb 20, 2012 1:24 pm

I'm pretty sure my rear one has some slack in it. I think it accentuates the engine studder.

To continue this incredible thread:
  • Changed the oil last night - didn't get a DROP of oil on me or spilled. That's a first for me.
  • Fixed a bad ground in one of my front fog lights (corrosion)
  • Rotated the tires
  • Finally fixed my rear swing-out bearing (was hanging up due to dried up lubrication)

Identified a nice leaky front diff (from the pinion)...

:mechanic:
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by janesy86 » Tue Feb 21, 2012 7:35 pm

So far the tear down wasn't too bad I suppose. Just everything was covered in PS fluid, and the cross member that had to be removed was a bit beat up from offroad, so getting a couple of the bolts out took a bit of time.

Very tight spots to get to everything too. And the rack and pinion bolts were a bear to remove, ended up doing a bit of custom tool making to get everything out... But putting it all back together should be a bit easier.
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by Trail X » Wed Feb 22, 2012 12:04 pm

My MV-50 broke again. I'm going to need to fix it better this time.

Motor still runs strong... however the connecting rod keeps falling off of the motor output shaft. Maybe I'll get it welded this time.
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by janesy86 » Wed Feb 22, 2012 12:23 pm

Guys, is there a trick to loosening the jam nut to separate the inner and outer tie rod ends? I've had them soaking in PB blaster for the last 2 days, and just cannot loosen them.

Will prob pick up some new ones just so I can get the truck back up and running, but I'd like to try to get them off, and sell em to someone for a trail spare, if I can't can't them off soon.
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by Trail X » Wed Feb 22, 2012 12:37 pm

Not sure how you're doing it. I got mine off with a single wrench. Just used the outer tie rod's limited rotational motion in my favor, so I was able to direct all of my effort into a single wrench, vs two.
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by fishsticks » Wed Feb 22, 2012 12:43 pm

Are your outers bent a little? That would certainly make it harder.
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by navigator » Wed Feb 22, 2012 1:33 pm

James, your note about your MV50 got me to thinking, has any one tried using one of those little 110v pancake compressors via an inverter?

HF has a little 3gal 1/3 HP one they run on sale from time to time I figure wouldn't take up much space but should be able to air up 4 tires in a reasonable amount of time.
Last edited by navigator on Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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by Flying Monkey » Wed Feb 22, 2012 3:01 pm

Ive ran my 1hp 1 gal. compressor off my inverter without issue. I only ran it once though. Cheap at walmart also.
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by janesy86 » Wed Feb 22, 2012 7:42 pm

JamesDowning wrote:Not sure how you're doing it. I got mine off with a single wrench. Just used the outer tie rod's limited rotational motion in my favor, so I was able to direct all of my effort into a single wrench, vs two.


Couldn't get them loose while on the TB. Took the whole unit (steering gear) out and tried to get the off. One side was decently easy but the other just wouldn't budge. Buddy that was helping me took it to a friends garage and broke it free. Jam nuts tho didn't want to move, guess they were super rusted on.

fishsticks wrote:Are your outers bent a little? That would certainly make it harder.


And no, not bent at all. Just very strange.

All in all it wouldn't have been such a hard job if I didn't have so many hang ups. But got the job done, no leaks, feels solid and its driveable, just needs an alignment pretty bad. So getting that done after I remove the lift tomorrow or so.
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by janesy86 » Fri Feb 24, 2012 10:39 am

Do you guys happen to know off the top of your head what size the bolts for the rear diff cover are? Taking the diff guard off and can't seem to find where I put them. So need to pick some up and if I can, without taking one out. Not a big deal if I have to, just thought I'd ask.
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by Trail X » Fri Feb 24, 2012 11:40 am

M8X1.25X20
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by Opeth » Fri Feb 24, 2012 4:01 pm

JamesDowning wrote:I'm pretty sure my rear one has some slack in it. I think it accentuates the engine studder.

To continue this incredible thread:
  • Changed the oil last night - didn't get a DROP of oil on me or spilled. That's a first for me.
  • Fixed a bad ground in one of my front fog lights (corrosion)
  • Rotated the tires
  • Finally fixed my rear swing-out bearing (was hanging up due to dried up lubrication)

Identified a nice leaky front diff (from the pinion)...

:mechanic:

I applaud you on the oil change... My arm is usually always covered. I haven't figured out how to get away clean.
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by janesy86 » Fri Feb 24, 2012 4:07 pm

No doubt, I know I always get covered too!

And thanks James for the bolt size.
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by Trail X » Fri Feb 24, 2012 4:19 pm

Opeth wrote:I applaud you on the oil change... My arm is usually always covered. I haven't figured out how to get away clean.

I've tried a plastic grocery bag before, and it just collapsed back on me when the weight of the oil got into the bag.

Learning form that mistake, this time I pulled that bag up as close to the top of the oil filter as possible, then held it in place by the handles with a bungee (from the top side). When the oil filter was free of the engine, I just lowered the bungees down. Added a few minutes to the process though.
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by Flying Monkey » Fri Feb 24, 2012 4:42 pm

lol last time I just told my 13 year old son "hey reach up there and unscrew that for me" after I broke it loose lol.....not a drop on me either
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by JCrayton99 » Fri Feb 24, 2012 4:47 pm

Well, my shocks have been trashed since just before I got laid off, and in the last few weeks Ive had some horrible squeaking from my drivers side suspension, replaced my lower ball joints earlier this year, but noticed one of the zerk (?) fittings broke off since and since the truck has been in the NE its whole life I figured I would just replace both upper and lower control arms. Going to flip my uppers while Im at it. Going to be doing all this while I lift it (with Marks 3" kit).

It figures it snowed today. I have a feeling we are going to get a bunch of snow the weekend I plan on doing the work. I have a parking lot. No covered work area......
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