Lash in the rear DS.... lots of it.

[fishsticks]

So my rear driveline has become increasingly noisy when shifting from park to reverse/drive. I'm trying to figure out if I need u joints or if I've opened up the backlash somewhere I shouldn't have.

Here's a video. Things to note:

1. I am aware I'm missing a strap bolt on the rear. There's one broken off in there. The other one is tight and has Loctite on it. It's been that way since I put the axle in with no ill effects.

2. Due to the way the locker works, I have a bit more backlash in the whole setup than most trucks do. The normal noise I'm used to just seems to have gotten louder recently.




Opinions?


Edit: Also of note. The truck drives fine, and sounded this way before my recent wheeling trip.

[Diacom]

Good news is, you don't need U-joints, yet. Get that strap bolt repaired.

I would check your pinion to ring gear clearance. Might be where you have the extra play.

Good video clip, focus and sound where good also. Shame more folks can't come across with this type if video when they are having problems. What equipment did you use?

[fishsticks]

Good news is, you don't need U-joints, yet. Get that strap bolt repaired.

I would check your pinion to ring gear clearance. Might be where you have the extra play.

Actually I pulled the rear straps off and one side is toast. The rear diff backlash is good.

Still a little noisy up front. I'll get some U joints tonight on the way from picking up my daughter from Boys & Girls Club.


EDIT: I used a JVC hard disk camcorder...which I'm sure my wife would gut me for if she found out I put it on the ground.

[Diacom]

Still quite a bit of rotation though. The clip really didn't show a great amount of play around the u-joints. Must be like you indicated earlier that the locker added more backlash and it just masked the actual join movement, I'll rewatch.

Yup, still don't really "see" it, but it is much louder when you move the vid-cam back to the rear joint.

[bartonmd]

Wow, that much play and I'd be opening up the diff and looking to see if the pinion has all its teeth, and making sure the crush sleeve didn't crush and cause the gear pattern to be WAY off...

Mike

[MrSmithsTB]

Wow, that much play and I'd be opening up the diff and looking to see if the pinion has all its teeth, and making sure the crush sleeve didn't crush and cause the gear pattern to be WAY off...

Mike

that's damn near 1/4 turn of play!

[fishsticks]

The way the locker works is to basically jam the cross pin between two plates, which opens them up and engages teeth into the side gears. That's why it moves that much. I can still move the yoke and get the actual gear backlash by hand, and it's close to where it was when I installed the locker/gears. I checked the preload with as well and it's in spec.

I've got the rear U joint replaced already and have the torch on the front one right now. If that doesn't quiet it down I'll pull the cover tomorrow and set up the dial indicator.

[janesy86]

I've got very similar symptoms, ever since I installed the No-slip. Kind of assumed that its normal with the lunchbox style locker, but prob should take a better look at it and pull the rear diff cover. Otherwise drives fine, no odd noises, just a clunk when shifting reverse to drive.

[fishsticks]

I've got very similar symptoms, ever since I installed the No-slip. Kind of assumed that its normal with the lunchbox style locker, but prob should take a better look at it and pull the rear diff cover. Otherwise drives fine, no odd noises, just a clunk when shifting reverse to drive.

I've returned from the metallic clanking sound I had to the comforting clunk that you probably hear too. I had flat needle bearings on both rear U joints. My inner slip yoke was DRY as well... which may have been part of the problem.

What a pain to change... I bought an extra for the front and rear almost want to buy ANOTHER front one just so I can change it out to the non-plastic style now.

[janesy86]

Ahh gotcha, at least you found the problem and got it fixed...