Front end rides harsh.

[mrtsobe]

I'll remeasure it when I get home but I could have sworn it gave it about 1/2" lift. Could be that everything needs to settle back down?

[fishsticks]

Check the resting height again now that the suspension has settled.

Also, you could be lighter in the front end than some of us, and getting more resting lift from 87 springs. That could explain why you were so close to topping out.

You also need to jack the front end up, let the wheels hangs and spin each one. Check for bind in the CV tripods. I have a -little- and haven't had a problem. If they are clunky to move you need to pull a couple washers out... unless you like replacing half shafts.

[mrtsobe]

Got home pulled the TB out of the garage drove it around the farm. When I got back I remeasure the center of hub to fender height and compared it to the prewasher treatment; spot on identical 22 1/2" at rest. Hmmm, so you're saying the only thing to do the cure the light weight resting height issue is to get a new steel bumper with winch to weight it down?!?! I'll use that as justification.

[Trail X]

You could always cut down your spring if you're still topping out.

[BSalty]

This is kind of odd. I am running the same springs, with no added weight on the nose and I am not having this problem at all. I was actually thinking I should have gone with the 88s for the extra lift. I am running Marks extra 1/2" outside spacer though.

The only time I have noticed it topping out is when I am going 40+ mph and go over a high cross street intersection or something where the front end completely unloads on the downhill side of the intersection. But even then it doesn't bounce at all or clunk. You can just tell the springs are under higher tension and are extending faster than stock. Even off-road I have never had a problem of it binding in any way.

[mrtsobe]

I measured and I have a resting height of 22 1/2" and 24" at full extension (center of hub to fender), which means I only have about 1 3/4" of downward articulation is that correct? So the limiting factor of downward articulation is the strut length, and eventually the CV tripod (which currently at full extension I have no binding). So, with only 1 3/4" of downward articulation it is not surprising that I could use that up over bumps off road and even simple speed bumps sounds reasonable right?

[Trail X]

Your logic is sound.

[mrtsobe]

Besides removing the 87s and replacing with a lower spring rate, what could I do to limit the "topping out syndrome"? I thought about adding weight and figure that's about it. I also thought about adding a 1/2" outside spacer but figure since I am already at 24" (center-fender) that might be too much with my spring set up, I may be as high as I can go. The UBJ and CV will be the next things to hang up I bet. Any recommendations on front bumpers?

[HARDTRAILZ]

Contact mr barton for your bumper needs...don't forget skids as well

[Trail X]

Besides removing the 87s and replacing with a lower spring rate, what could I do to limit the "topping out syndrome"?

Below.

You could always cut down your spring if you're still topping out.

I also thought about adding a 1/2" outside spacer

That won't help your topping out.

[BSalty]

I measured mine for you. 22" resting (maybe +/- 1/4" My tires stick out so it was hard to get an absolute perfect #) hub to fender. 37 1/4 resting ground to fender. I will try to jack it up and get an extended for you tomorrow when its dry.

One of my springs was already on the truck, but the other one I ordered when I did the lift to replace an 85 if IIRC. I had one replaced with an 87 before I got the truck so I just got one more to make it the same on both sides.

Is anyone else's truck doing this? I think I have way more than 1 1/2" down travel before my shock stops the wheel assembly.

[BSalty]

I pulled a muscle in my back at a training class. I never got to jacking it up yet. I will when I can walk upright.

[Stoked]

This past weekend I bought the washers and rented a strut compressor. Unfortunately the clamp things dont fit in the space between the coils . Looks like I need to go somewhere with a wall mounted one and explain why I need to add washers to the shock.

[fishsticks]

Try starting the clamps at the bottom and twisting them up along the spring until they are where you want them.

[HARDTRAILZ]

Try starting the clamps at the bottom and twisting them up along the spring until they are where you want them.

Agree. There are about 2 spots I can get compressors in or out of my springs, but with a little trial and error you should be able to get it done.

[ConradM]

I noticed this same thing after I lifted my TB with the OEM springs and Bilstein HDs. It's mostly noticeable on abrupt speed bumps... Very pronounced "clunk".

Off-road it's not so bad so long as I control my speed in the bouncy sections.

[Stoked]

Try starting the clamps at the bottom and twisting them up along the spring until they are where you want them.

Agree. There are about 2 spots I can get compressors in or out of my springs, but with a little trial and error you should be able to get it done.

With the 87s and inside spacer, there was NO way to get the spring compressors in. It simply didnt fit.

[Gordinho80]

You must have some super thick compressor... considering Kyle has 88s and spacers. Oh, I've got 88s and spacers too, and I was able to get the compressors in and out. You realize that the unit comes undone, right?

[Stoked]

You realize that the unit comes undone, right?

Maybe it was a thick compressor, but I completely unscrewed the bottom hook type thing and couldn't wedge it between the coils. I'll try again this weekend since I'm rebuilding the 4wd disconnect

[dlcsjoyce]

The placement of your washers used as a spacer is in the wrong place it should be under the black cupped washer not on top of it. Having this backwards would make the strut assembly look longer. Someone correct me if I'm wrong with this observation.