CV Shaft Replacement

[Regulator1175]

Summary: How to replace the passenger side CV Shaft
Difficulty: Moderate
Estimated Time: 3 Hours
Part Numbers: Cardone Select CV Shaft (Part# 661345)
Cost: $45.00 from rockauto.com
[PRBREAK][/PRBREAK]
Note: You must be comfortable working with the suspension and drivetrain components

I started with the passenger side:

Here are my new parts. 2 - Cardone CV Shafts; 36mm axle socket (35mm also needed if you're removing OEM shafts); Synthetic packing grease; 2 qts Mobile 1 75r90 (not used for CV chaft change - just for the differential)


1) set your emergency brake and chalk the rear wheels
2) loosen front lug nuts
3) lift the front end and support the truck on jack stands
4) remove front tires



5) remove strut assembly
..... a) loosen the two upper nuts (15mm) but do not remove them yet
..... b) loosen the lower nut (15/16ths) back the nut off until there are no longer any threads exposed
..... c) lap a pickle fork into the opening between the lower shock mount and the control arm as pictured
..... d) using a heavy hammer hit the end of the tapered post (make sure the nut is to the end of the threads and your hitting the nut, otherwise you run the risk of fowling the threads on the end of the post.) It only take a few decent smacks to get it to pop free
..... e) remove all three nuts and remove assembly



6) Remove the brake caliper and bracket in one piece (18mm)



7) remove the brake line bracket (10mm)



8) set the brake caliper assembly out of the way (I had enough room due to the body lift to set it on the frame, you may have to hang it up out of the way. Be careful not to strain the brake line.)



9) remove the wheel spacers (if applicable) and the rotors



10) remove the speed/ABS sensor (5mm allen wrench) unclip and move it out of the way



11) remove drive axle nut (35mm stock / 36mm aftermarket) use a prybar to hold the hub stationary



12) remove the three hub assembly bolts (normally you will have to work around the CV Shaft, however mine was broken and has previously been removed)



13) remove the axle from the front axle 4WD disconnect, the easiest method for me was to get a pickle fork on the bottom side of the inner CV housing and give it a couple of good hits with a small sledge. There is a spring clip on the end of the CV shaft that has to compress for it to come loose. This step is going to be entirely trial and error for you until the shaft pops free.



this is a good opportunity to clean out the old the old grease in the front axle 4WD disconnect. Remove the front axle 4WD disconnect from the engine block (4 - 15mm bolts)



once removed from the vehicle remove the remainder of the bolts and you should be able to pry it open.



14) replace front axle 4WD disconnect to the engine block

15) install new CV Shaft and re-install everything in reverse

[HARDTRAILZ]

That damn pickle fork gets a ton of use...Well done

[Regulator1175]

That damn pickle fork gets a ton of use...Well done

What can I say, I love my pickle fork and BFH.

[fishsticks]

What can I say, I love my pickle fork and BFH.

[Trail X]

It seems like you're removing a lot... not that it's hurting anything.

However, if you remove the top strut nuts, the UBJ pinch nut (and remove the UBJ from the UCA), and disconnect your swaybar, you can get enough room to remove the CV shaft from the nuckle.

You don't need to remove brakes, speed sensor, wheel spacer, or the lower strut mount.

Anyways, glad you got the new CV in.

[Regulator1175]

It seems like you're removing a lot... not that it's hurting anything.

However, if you remove the top strut nuts, the UBJ pinch nut (and remove the UBJ from the UCA), and disconnect your swaybar, you can get enough room to remove the CV shaft from the nuckle.

You don't need to remove brakes, speed sensor, wheel spacer, or the lower strut mount.

Anyways, glad you got the new CV in.

That is the same way that the Haynes manual says to do it James. I opted to remove some extra things to provide an easier work space. Realistically, there are 4 bolts for the brakes, and 3 bolts on the hub assembly. All said and done its not alot of additional work (15 minutes maybe) and makes life alot simpler. If you remove the upper ball joint mount with the rotor and brake assemble still attached, you need to worry about the lines and keeping them from stretching. It just makes for one more thing in the way, and to be concerned with.

Heading out to do the drivers side this morning, as well as new fluid in both front and rear differentials.

[Trail X]

Gotcha! True, I do seem to remember that speed sensor wire was a bit tight for comfort.

Oh... one last thing... if you remove the axle nut while the tire is on and the vehicle is on the ground, you don't have to use the pry bar to hold the hub.

So you're finally driving again, hooray!

[Regulator1175]

I replaced both front CV shafts a few weeks back, and in the process cleaned out and repacked the passenger side disconnect with new grease and changed my front diff fluid. I have since had a decent leak, and have been throwing diff fluid all over the drivers side of the wheel well and engine compartment. I obviously have a seal leak at the CV shaft.

Today I tore it all back down again, and replaced the seal. What a huge pain in the a** that was. First off the CV shaft did not want to come out of the front diff. I pulled and pried and couldnt get it to pop free. So, a trip to Advance and spent $130 for their "loaner" slide hammer that is meant to pull the CV shafts. In reading the directions at the store it shows that you thread it onto the wheel side of the shaft and pull it out that way. This didn't make sense to me, so of course I asked. The answer I got was "Best I can tell you is go home and give it a shot. If you break the CV shaft while trying to get it out with our tool just bring it in and we will replace it for free." He even checked and they had two in stock. So I figured what the hell, lets give it a shot.

When I got back home, I decided best course of action was first to see what the travel was going to be like in the CV shaft. It appears the outward limit to travel is the boot itself. So of course the slide hammer will do me no good at this point. I decided to default to my favorite tools, the BFH and pickle fork. It took some tight maneuvering, but I am happy to say it did finally come out.

Next came the seal replacement. After sitting there and scratching my head for a few minutes wondering how this was coming out it dawned on me, the slide hammer was sitting in the back of my wife's Bravada. The kit had a 90* claw piece that screw onto the end of the slide. It worked out just right to get behind the old gasket assembly and with a few good hits working it around the ring I was successful at popping out the old gasket.

I was now out of light, so re-assembly will likely take place Sunday morning. Lets hope this solves my leak.

[MrSmithsTB]

That's where my seal leak was. Pickle fork and an MFH(medium effin hammer) got the shaft out with no problem. That seal was a pain in that ass to remove. I had to use an angled pry bar and a hammer to pop it out. But if you think that one is annoying, wait until you have to replace the front output seal in the transfer case. There is very little room, even with a body lift.

[mrtsobe]

I was reading this thread to see if I could find some hints as to how to install my new CV axle. I have a pretty good alignment (straight on) and have tried tapping/hitting with a hammer (with nut and aluminum buffer in place) but I can't seem to get it to seat properly. It looks like it has about an inch to go and I can't get it in any further or out to try again. I removed the electric actuator to see if I could get things to line up by manually engaging the gears but had no luck (although I was able to manually engage 4WD). I hate to keep hitting it with a hammer (major damage result?). I think the small clip at the end of the axle may be hung up. Also I tried mounting the wheel end in and it become apparent that the CV axle needs to go in further. Any ideas? Thanks.

[Gordinho80]

I was reading this thread to see if I could find some hints as to how to install my new CV axle. I have a pretty good alignment (straight on) and have tried tapping/hitting with a hammer (with nut and aluminum buffer in place) but I can't seem to get it to seat properly. It looks like it has about an inch to go and I can't get it in any further or out to try again. I removed the electric actuator to see if I could get things to line up by manually engaging the gears but had no luck (although I was able to manually engage 4WD). I hate to keep hitting it with a hammer (major damage result?). I think the small clip at the end of the axle may be hung up. Also I tried mounting the wheel end in and it become apparent that the CV axle needs to go in further. Any ideas? Thanks.

That looks like the wrong axle shaft... what is the part #?

[mrtsobe]

I think it is just the angle of the photo. I removed the caliper and rotor, and think that let me get a better angle and then worked the hell out of the CV axle like a slide hammer on it self and it seated just fine.

[Gordinho80]

No... It really looks smaller then stock... Really smaller

[Trail X]

I think it is just the angle of the photo. I removed the caliper and rotor, and think that let me get a better angle and then worked the hell out of the CV axle like a slide hammer on it self and it seated just fine.

That's the method I've used - using the tripod joint as a slide hammer. I don't like tapping on the wheel-end to seat it because it tries to transfer the load through the CV joint, which isn't the way it's made to handle forces.

No... It really looks smaller then stock... Really smaller

The tripod joint could be compressed on one, and elongated on the other, making it look like different sizes.

[bgwolfpack]

Just changed mine a couple weeks ago. The shafts look different lengths just because of the movable CV and angle of the photo. I used a 3 pound ballpeen (? spelling) hammer with a 10" steel drift and both came out fine, 20-30 strokes each. You can't be delicate. You must really hit it hard.

[Trail X]

Just changed mine a couple weeks ago. The shafts look different lengths just because of the movable CV and angle of the photo. I used a 3 pound ballpeen (? spelling) hammer with a 10" steel drift and both came out fine, 20-30 strokes each. You can't be delicate. You must really hit it hard.

I think we're talking about inserting the shaft back into the disconnect.

[bgwolfpack]

I think we're talking about inserting the shaft back into the disconnect.

Doesn't change what I did!

Slept good last night too! (Oh shit, where are my specticales?) sorry

I think I read a comment about checking the part #. May be a good idea, from someone who didn't just wake up!

[Trail X]

Doesn't change what I did!

You used a hammer to insert the shaft back into the housing? I'd like to hear your method, I don't know if mine was optimal.

[bgwolfpack]

Doesn't change what I did!

You used a hammer to insert the shaft back into the housing? I'd like to hear your method, I don't know if mine was optimal.

OK James enough. You could hurt my feelings.

No, I did not need to use a hammer to re-insert my shaft. As it turned out, my shaft slid back in just fine. If anything a little loose but not too short, certainly not too short.

Now if only I could learn to read. I may be more helpful.

For anyone reading just this post, mrtsobe say his shaft is too short. Can anyone help?

[Gordinho80]

Maybe it is the angle of the shot, maybe it is the shaft compressed in the boot... but I still think the shaft looks too short! I still would like to see what the part # for the axle shaft that is pictured, IS. mrtsobe, would you please oblige?