Maint. blues

[bdp1978]

Just as a follow up to my earlier post. Autozone has CV assemblies for $59 bucks (Same as Rockauto) - Lifetime Warranty with the upgraded Neoprene boot. So, no waiting and I'll be throwing a new one on tonight.

[fishsticks]

$59 and no shipping? Might be time for a trail spare.

[bdp1978]

$59 and no shipping? Might be time for a trail spare.

There is a $10 core charge, so all in $69 bucks if you just want a spare. For the $10 bucks extra I plan on keeping my OEM though, other parts stores charge a $75 core. He also said they would price match, but really sweet talked me at "Lifetime Warranty"

[fishsticks]

So my Friday evening project for tonight was fixing some dead bulbs in my climate control module.

Found them at Radio Shack for a buck fifty for two. There are 11 in the module. A little desoldering/resoldering and it's like new. I went ahead and did all of them since I had it open.

I have one out on my tach as well that I need to get to. I'll probably just buy a bunch and do the entire cluster.

[djthumper]

Time to replace my fan clutch. Got out with the truck idling and heard a weird noise. Checked it out and I am able to wobble the fan almost 1/4". Ordered the Dorman fan for $109 and some change from Amazon. It was at least $259 everywhere else I found it.

[bdp1978]

Time to replace my fan clutch. Got out with the truck idling and heard a weird noise. Checked it out and I am able to wobble the fan almost 1/4". Ordered the Dorman fan for $109 and some change from Amazon. It was at least $259 everywhere else I found it.

Nice heads up, mine needs to be replaced. Ebay has some good prices but this is solid from Amazon.

[The Roadie]

Fan wobbling caused by the water pump is more typical than a bad fan clutch. Either do both, or make sure you're changing the problem part.

[djthumper]

Well when I was under the hood it sure looked like it was the fan clutch that was moving. I guess I will really be able to tell when I pull the fan and check it.

[djthumper]

Time to replace my fan clutch. Got out with the truck idling and heard a weird noise. Checked it out and I am able to wobble the fan almost 1/4". Ordered the Dorman fan for $109 and some change from Amazon. It was at least $259 everywhere else I found it.

Well the fan clutch was only part of the noise. Most of the noise came from the AC clutch bearing. After finding the write up on how to change it out I got it pulled and measured. No place that was open had the bearing, Monday I am contacting a couple of local bearing shops to see if they have one in stock. So for now I am by-passing the compressor and everything is nice and quiet.

[HARDTRAILZ]

Got a fan clutch coming for $94 and already have the water pump. I tried to change the pump yesterday but can not find a way to break the fan clutch loose. Ripped 2 hangers in half and a section of inch wide metal strapping when trying to hook from a bolt to the alt bracket. Tried the rental tool and it was worthless. My neighbor said he had to take the pump, clutch, fan and all out at once and use a vice to break his apart. Figured if I am doing that, I may as well do the fan clutch at the same time. Pain in the ass.

[The Roadie]

The BFH on the BF Crescent wrench trick didn't work either? Uses inertia to keep the water pump from spinning.

I take my fan clutch off a few times a year, and anti-seize on the clutch nut has been a help. One whack now and it spins right off.

[djthumper]

I had to use a BFH and a chisel to spin it off. I am going to have to remember to put the anti-seize on there after I get the AC clutch bearing replaced.

[HARDTRAILZ]

Nope. Nothing worked. I will do antiseize. My haynes manual says to use rtv on gasket but didn't see that anywhere else....should I?

[djthumper]

I didn't use any RTV on my water pump gasket. So far it isn't leaking.

[dirty anton]

if you are having issues with grinding noises under your hood check your automatic belt tensioner pulley. just replaced this. easy quick fix! pulley is around 20 bucks or you can replace the whole tensioner that comes with the pulley for around 40 at advance auto.

[dirty anton]

also kyle or anyone havin problems with removing the fan clutch i have used the chain method in the past. i did it a little differently but this gives you a general idea. warning: its sometimes hard to understand what he's saying

[fishsticks]

Did the oil and xfer case fluid today. Good god those xfer case plugs were tight. I don't remember tightening them like that the last time I changed the fluid.

Old AutoTrac fluid was a nice clear bluish green. I'm happy to see that as to me that says that my constantly spinning front driveshaft is not causing any premature clutch/bearing wear in the xfer case.

My front diff pinion leak seems to have stopped. I think the 140W gear oil I put in there helped. I was NOT looking forward to changing that seal out. The old one never leaked a drop. Only had a problem when I put the new Yukon one in during the diff rebuild.

Ready for this weekend!

[janesy86]

Was getting a whining noise, that sounded as if my TB was a R/C car which was driving me crazy for the last few days.

With a quick search on the OS, figured out that the idler pulleys have been a known issue for this noise. So went to Autozone picked a new idler pulley and swapped it out and now its back to normal purrin' nice and quiet.

Back to another 'whining' sound, except of course this one has to be the most expensive to fix... Now my AC compressor is whining, I think for now I am just going to bypass it with a shorter belt, definitely not going to shell out all that $$ for a new one, might possibly be able to change the bearing but right now, bypass it is...

Edit: Just ran to Autozone, picked up a shorter belt (705K6) to bypass the compressor, now she purrs like a kitten again. Of course back to no A/C but it'll do for now.

And lightly burned my arm since I didn't want to wait for the engine to cool.

[djthumper]

Was getting a whining noise, that sounded as if my TB was a R/C car which was driving me crazy for the last few days.

With a quick search on the OS, figured out that the idler pulleys have been a known issue for this noise. So went to Autozone picked a new idler pulley and swapped it out and now its back to normal purrin' nice and quiet.

Back to another 'whining' sound, except of course this one has to be the most expensive to fix... Now my AC compressor is whining, I think for now I am just going to bypass it with a shorter belt, definitely not going to shell out all that $$ for a new one, might possibly be able to change the bearing but right now, bypass it is...

I just went through all of this. You can replace just the bearing for around $28. There is an article on the OS that tells you how to do it. The same article I put in the part number of the by-pass belt for carquest but the belt cost around $28.

I would get the bearing on order and then do the work. I got the belt because I pulled the bearing out and couldn't find a replacement without ordering it in.

[janesy86]

Ok, thanks. Yea I need to do a bit more reading on it, but just wanted the sound to go away now. Just need to find out if the whole compressor is shot or not, but like I said, need to read up, but will try that.

With A/C off it whines non-stop. Turn A/C on it stops, but then starts back up again like 5 secs later and then off again and so on...

I think if I have to I can deal without A/C, went all last summer because my Dad busted my A/C condenser right before the summer came and didn't get around to replacing it til like Oct or so... haha figures I have it working during the cold months but not once it gets hot.