Gordinho's Rear Bumper Project

[Gordinho80]

I think its a decent unit if you go over the beads a couple of times. The way I've done... I ran a bead, let it set, then used my grinder to clean off the area a little, then ran another bead. It seems to be holding fine. This little guy will work just fine for small amounts of welding. The pieces that I've welded so far, should not see excessive load/force, so I'm satisfied using this welder for that. Anything that will have extra load, ie, my swing out assembly and spindle, I'll either be using my neighbors Generator/Welder stick or my bro-in-laws big Hobart MIG with gas.

[navigator]

another option if $$$ isn't a huge problem is getting a gas generator/welder might be an option.
NT has a 140 amp Hobart that you could weld with or use for a generator for under $1500.
I honestly don't know anything about them but it might be worth considering.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200175124

[navigator]

oops, just realized this is a stick welder and you guys like the MIG.

[bartonmd]

I think its a decent unit if you go over the beads a couple of times. The way I've done... I ran a bead, let it set, then used my grinder to clean off the area a little, then ran another bead. It seems to be holding fine. This little guy will work just fine for small amounts of welding. The pieces that I've welded so far, should not see excessive load/force, so I'm satisfied using this welder for that. Anything that will have extra load, ie, my swing out assembly and spindle, I'll either be using my neighbors Generator/Welder stick or my bro-in-laws big Hobart MIG with gas.

That could actually be causing a problem... You can stack beads with MIG, but because of the metal composition of flux core wire, when you re-heat it by welding over it with a second pass, or a third, you actually make the weld brittle, and more prone to breaking...

Mike

[Gordinho80]

Thanks for the heads up, Mike. I'll keep an eye out on that.

[bartonmd]

Thanks for the heads up, Mike. I'll keep an eye out on that.

Keep an eye out on the ones you've already done, and as a practice, never stack beads with flux core...

If you want to get more metal pulled in, and/or a larger fillet, make your circles slower and bigger, and keep your puddle bigger on the one weld...

Mike

[Gordinho80]

Thanks again Mike! I've taken a few whacks at the existing welds, they seem to be OK. I'll be sure to go slower and make bigger circles on the remaining stuff.

[bartonmd]

Thanks again Mike! I've taken a few whacks at the existing welds, they seem to be OK. I'll be sure to go slower and make bigger circles on the remaining stuff.

No problem... They're probably fine, but they won't crumble like that (whacking them)... They'll just fatigue and crack sooner from being worked... It's a bigger deal on suspension components, hitches (if you tow real weight), and shackle mounts and stuff...

Mike

[Gordinho80]

The receiver was welded using the big 220 Hobart w/ gas... It will also be reinforced using some rebar, angle, or something to spread the load toward the legs. The shackle mounts/legs are the single 3/8" angles... I am just going to widen the outside so that the shackles don't rattle. So I agree, they should be fine.

[Gordinho80]

Pics of bumper in place...






These 2 pics show where I'll be cutting sheet metal (BLUE area) and where I'll be adding flat stock on an angle to cover the vent and bulge (RED areas)

[bartonmd]

That's really starting to look good!


One thing to watch, because I know the front does it, is to leave a little bit of space between the bumper wings and the body... The body stays pretty square as the frame twists slightly, and the plastic bumper can be attached to both, because it's not rigid... The metal bumper will rub if it's up that close in the front, but I don't know about the back, for sure... I'd want at least 1/4 - 3/8" between the bumper wings and the body in the rear...

Mike

[Gordinho80]

The wings will have more space. I plan on replacing the stock wing hangers with some square tube to act as a ledge, as well as a receptacle for a small metal tab that I will weld onto the inside of each wing. I'll leave enough room above the wings as well as enough room inside the tube for the body to flex on the frame. The bones of the bumper as almost done. I still need to do a little more cutting under the taillights and then fill in the gaps. I'm hoping I get some time during the week.

[janesy86]

Lookin' really good Mario! Nice work so far.

[Trail X]

My wings were pretty flush... we ended up stuffing some thin rubber between the bumper and the body.

[Mooseknuckle]

Damn came a long way since I saw ya last weekend,thats the second time you have welded or third. I'm impressed great work!!

[v7guy]

Did this get finished up, it's looking really good from the pics.

[HARDTRAILZ]

Got me wanting a rear bumper again.

[Gordinho80]

Not finished yet... but I did get a little more work in. Still need to get my hinge and latch for the swing out carrier. Can't do much more until that is set up. I have to clean up the welds some more. I need a new flap disc for the grinder. The cutting disc is not the optimal attachment for cleaning up the seams.

[fishsticks]

Some of those welds look a bit porous. Are you using flux core? I find my welds look a ton better if I crank the wire speed up to 7+ at full power on 3/16". I put a HUGE bead on and then grind down what I don't want.

[bartonmd]

Some of those welds look a bit porous. Are you using flux core? I find my welds look a ton better if I crank the wire speed up to 7+ at full power on 3/16". I put a HUGE bead on and then grind down what I don't want.

Exactly! If your beads on the mounts and/or hitch look like that, I wouldn't use it for pulling anything!

With flux core, you can do small circles, but you can't go back onto "less hot" weld with big circles like you can with MIG... I've had the best luck with 110 flux core by just going down the seam, slow and steady, letting the puddle "push" you along, as it gets the width that you want...

Mike

ETA: This guy is on Pirate, and if you use the code "GRIT" they are even cheaper: http://www.roarksupply.com/4-1-2-Zircon ... pdiscs.htm Get the 60 or 80 grit ones. They are $1.89 each after the discount, and they are as good or better than the $7 ones I've gotten locally... I ordered a bunch a while back, and they really are good...