Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Front End "Drive" Questions

Something not working right?

by axo488 » Mon Feb 25, 2013 7:41 pm

Ok...here goes. Please be patient and try to understand this is my daily driver with no other form of transportation. I replaced the front passenger side strut, spring, upper ball joint and sway bar link yesterday with all intention on replacing both sides but ran out of daylight. I know it is not ideal to only replace one side without the other but like I said its my only ride. It seems fine unless i accelerate heavily from a stand still at which point it feels like something is either slipping (think gear slip with worn out gears) or jumping. That is the best way I can describe it. Almost like the feeling of turning in 4wd on pavement. In any case, I jacked up the front end tonight after work and checked for play in any components...none except some movement in drivers side lower arm bushings. I did notice that while in park the drivers side wheel would engage (not spin fully) while the passenger side spins freely. Not sure if this is a normal engagement while in park or not. Im truly hoping it has something to do with old components on one side and new components on the other. The worst I can think of is that the drivers side is staying engaged while the passenger side is not in which case I will be breaking into a world that I have never ventured. Any thoughts or help would be utmost appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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by HARDTRAILZ » Mon Feb 25, 2013 10:27 pm

Drive it gently until you can finish your original work, then see if you still have an issue.
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by Opeth » Mon Feb 25, 2013 10:55 pm

Ugh, are u driving in 4wd on pavement or something? You should only notice a change in handling for the most part, stopping or starting might cause the nose to dive to the driver side due to sloppy shocks.

Do as mentioned above, until you can swap the rest in and if your driving in 4wd or A4WD.. stop!
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by The Roadie » Tue Feb 26, 2013 1:37 am

How many miles, and has the transfer case fluid been changed religiously every 50K? When was the last time differentials were checked for level or changed? A loose passenger wheel in 2HI mode even in park is to be expected. A jammed-up driver's wheel implicates the front diff and transfer case in some shenanigans.
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by axo488 » Tue Feb 26, 2013 8:54 am

*148k
*transfer and diff oil has not been changed since I have owned it (108K to present)
*has been in and out of A4wd and 4HI several times but last i tried it would not engage into 4LO.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Tue Feb 26, 2013 9:30 am

Change your fluids ASAP.

Do not use A4wd!
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by axo488 » Tue Feb 26, 2013 10:02 am

Will Do! I did stop this morning and shift into 4HI, creep forward slowly while turning the steering wheel from side to side and that seemed to have helped. Im wondering if it just engaged at some point and never fully released. I will jack it back up tonight hopefully and check the drivers side wheel again. Anyone have a suggestion as to what fluid to use as a replacement. I have heard good things about amsoil but dont have easy access to it. Again, thank you guys for all the help. My mechanical ability far outweighs my monitary access so this site and all of you have been more helpfull than you will ever know! :excited:
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by dvanbramer88 » Tue Feb 26, 2013 10:13 am

Well the transfer case REQUIRES GM's AUTOTRAK II fluid. That you have to buy from the dealer.

I'm pretty sure the differentials take any old synthetic gear oil.
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by The Roadie » Tue Feb 26, 2013 1:18 pm

4LO requires you to be in neutral and rolling from 0-3 MPH max. The neutral interlock sometimes fools people.
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by axo488 » Tue Feb 26, 2013 6:24 pm

So I had the diff oil changed front and rear after work today. The left front wheel is still engaged when jacked up and spun. Not really sure where to go from here. Suggestions?
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by dvanbramer88 » Tue Feb 26, 2013 6:27 pm

Not until that T-case get's serviced.


And some friendly advice to save you from possible headache's down the road, Whenever changing oil or fluid that has a fill plug and a drain plug, Always remove the fill plug first. There are plenty of stories of people draining their differential and than finding out the fill plug is frozen or stripped. Also use this practice when changing motor oil, happened to my mom's jeep one time, drained the oil to find out the oil cap wouldn't budge.
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by axo488 » Tue Feb 26, 2013 8:19 pm

Heading to the local dealership tomorrow to pick up the fluid for the transfer case. I wanted to get them all changed today (and as you can imagine I'm in a hurry or I would be doing it myself) at jiffy lube but they didn't have the transfer case lube which I was warned of in an earlier post. The guy that changed it said the front diff lube was worse than he had ever seen. :facepalm: Being new to 4 wheel drive vehicles has proven to be a lesson learned on the extra steps that should be taken for preventative maintenance! I will update as soon as the transfer case lube is all good. In the meantime any ideas on where to go after the lube is changed and I still have the problem would be welcomed. Heres hoping the transfer case lube fixes my problem though :cheers:
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by Trail X » Wed Feb 27, 2013 6:05 pm

I doubt a fluid change will change anything.

Be more clear with what your findings are. What mode is your transfer case in when you're attempting to turn your tires?

Did you follow the entire flow chart? http://www.offroadtb.com/articles/tech- ... wd-system/

Please give us the entire rundown of your process when following the flow chart.

Having only one front wheel locking up is very strange indeed. My gut tells me that you tested in 4WD, and tested the passenger tire first, right? Probably engaged 4WD while the passenger tire was in the air? I'm guessing you jacked up off of the frame, and not the lower A arm? If there's any slop at all in your disconnect, then it will have trouble connecting, especially when the suspension is at full extension because of the increased inner CV joint angle. When you raise the driver side tire, it puts the passenger side inner CV joint into a better line for the disconnect. My bet is that the disconnect was able to align enough to connect once you rotated the drivers side a little. You probably didn't go back to check the passenger side, which would have been connected at that point. At least, that seems to be the most likely cause for your symptoms. Less likely is a blown front diff, but it's possible - but if the drivers side tire was truly locked up, the truck would probably be pulling to the left.
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by axo488 » Thu Feb 28, 2013 1:36 pm

At this point I have tested the left front wheel two ways. First I jacked each side up and installed two jack stands under the frame (one on each side) so the front of the vehicle was completely off the ground (both wheels). This was checked in 2WD. The passenger side tire would spin freely and the drivers side would turn maybe 1/4 turn either way before engaging. After having all fluids changed I lifted only the drivers side off the ground in 2WD and got the same result. I can tell the left front is staying engaged while driving also due to the jumping/skipping sensation on that side when under heavy acceleration from a stand still. Im not sure if the passenger side wheel is engaging while in A4WD, 4HI, or 4LO because I havent checked it. Thats all I know for now. I will do my best to follow the flow chart this weekend and record the results. Thanks!
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by Trail X » Thu Feb 28, 2013 2:03 pm

Just to give you some idea of how the system operates - you physically cannot have "engagement" of only one front wheel. The front differential should prohibit only one tire from receiving torque transmission.

So, if I'm understanding you properly, you had both front tires lifted off of the ground when you did your test. The passenger tire would spin, but the drivers side would not. If that is indeed the case - with both tires off of the ground and in 4WD mode - then you have a serious problem with your front differential, and possibly your disconnect.
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by fishsticks » Thu Feb 28, 2013 2:31 pm

I'll field a guess:

Spider gears are seized on the carrier cross pin due to lack of lubrication.



Essentially a welded diff.... in front.

I bet that thing is a BEAR to turn in 4WD.
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by dvanbramer88 » Thu Feb 28, 2013 2:34 pm

fishsticks wrote:I'll field a guess:

Spider gears are seized on the carrier cross pin due to lack of lubrication.



Essentially a welded diff.... in front.

I bet that thing is a BEAR to turn in 4WD.


Talking from experience?
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by fishsticks » Thu Feb 28, 2013 2:48 pm

dvanbramer88 wrote:
fishsticks wrote:I'll field a guess:

Spider gears are seized on the carrier cross pin due to lack of lubrication.



Essentially a welded diff.... in front.

I bet that thing is a BEAR to turn in 4WD.


Talking from experience?



Not on my rigs.

Ever tried to turn a truck with a welded front diff and the hubs locked in?
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by dvanbramer88 » Thu Feb 28, 2013 2:52 pm

Can't say I have.
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by axo488 » Thu Feb 28, 2013 3:54 pm

Just to give you some idea of how the system operates - you physically cannot have "engagement" of only one front wheel. The front differential should prohibit only one tire from receiving torque transmission.

So, if I'm understanding you properly, you had both front tires lifted off of the ground when you did your test. The passenger tire would spin, but the drivers side would not. If that is indeed the case - with both tires off of the ground and in 4WD mode - then you have a serious problem with your front differential, and possibly your disconnect.



So are you saying that I should jack the front back up, put it in 4HI and try to turn both sides?
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