Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Loud Hum

Something not working right?

by Mooseknuckle » Tue Oct 18, 2011 12:33 am

Ok last time out with Mario things got extremely wet and muddy and I tend to drive a little hard. Well i had to take all the coil packs out and blow air to get all the water out (engine light was on , cleared the code) Now I have a hum, sounds like a tire rubbing , from 20 mph on. When I take an on or off ramp while I'm turning to the hard right sound disappears once i straighten out the wheels its back. I feel it under my feet and it's louder than the radio at half volume. Wheel bearing maybe? Also Mario and myself replaced the cv half shaft on the driver side in feb. I ordered another (Cardone select) and replaced same side because you could move it all over the place basically you could rattle it very easily with your hands. replacing the cv half shaft did nothing. When you look at the driver side half shaft,the end that is in the transfer case, the angle is more pronounced then that of the passenger side and my front tires are a little toed in from the bottom if that makes sense. I think there are three bushings or mounts on the transfer case could this be caused by a bad bushing? My buddy and I jacked up both tires and spun the tires to see how the shaft spun passenger side good driver side almost appears to wobble. We took measurements from the ground to the bottom of the inner part of the cv shaft passenger side was 81 and 1/4 " driver side was I think 81 and 3/4 " When morning comes I can take some pics and post. Thanks in advance.
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by fishsticks » Tue Oct 18, 2011 2:43 am

There is a small bearing inside the preload adjuster that the journal of the half-shaft rides on. It has probably worn out on you. It should be able to be replaced by taking out that axle and the seal. If it's humming it's time to stop and replace it now. Also, check your diff fluid for metal.

Mine is a little loose too, so I'll probably be doing this soon.
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by Trail X » Tue Oct 18, 2011 8:51 am

Jeff, the hum sounds like a textbook wheel bearing to me.

Read here, which supplies some of the diagnostics I ran through + how to replace it: http://www.offroadtb.com/articles/how-t ... eplacement
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by bartonmd » Tue Oct 18, 2011 9:40 am

JamesDowning wrote:Jeff, the hum sounds like a textbook wheel bearing to me.

Read here, which supplies some of the diagnostics I ran through + how to replace it: http://www.offroadtb.com/articles/how-t ... eplacement


Yep...
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by Mooseknuckle » Tue Oct 18, 2011 2:33 pm

Ok Fish. Where is the preload adjuster? Do you have any pictures of how to change that seal your talking about? Obviously I have to take the cv half shaft out. You said axle. Do I have to take the axle out? I just changed front and rear diff fluids when I changed the cv shaft that diff fluid looked black. Not sure that's how it's supposed to look. Then again I was blasting through a bunch of mud puddles. If it is a wheel bearing no problem thanks to James write up. Hopefully there is one for the inner seal. Thanks


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by Trail X » Tue Oct 18, 2011 3:04 pm

Some good discussion on Mario's front end overhaul thread: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=1699

I recommend using a slide hammer for the front seal if possible, makes it very easy. But there's no official how to, since it's relatively straight forward.
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by fishsticks » Tue Oct 18, 2011 3:15 pm

From gordinho's image...

Image
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by Mooseknuckle » Tue Oct 18, 2011 6:47 pm

Gotcha! I remember I was there with him. Ok. Thanks guys will try this first. Keep ya posted.
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by MrSmithsTB » Tue Oct 18, 2011 7:08 pm

Not to sound like a broken record, but sounds like a wheel bearing to me. Very easy service to do. I've done my pass side. Driver side is still good at 140k :shock: , but I have a spare in stock for when the time comes.
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by bdp1978 » Wed Oct 19, 2011 8:45 am

Mooseknuckle wrote:Ok last time out with Mario things got extremely wet and muddy and I tend to drive a little hard.......................................... Now I have a hum, sounds like a tire rubbing , from 20 mph on. When I take an on or off ramp while I'm turning to the hard right sound disappears once i straighten out the wheels its back.



^^^^^^ Agreed, this has wheel bearing written all over it. The turning of the wheels affecting the sound is the main sign of wheel bearing failure. $70 bucks and 20 minutes time.
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by Trail X » Wed Oct 19, 2011 9:09 am

$70 bucks, and 20 minutes?!?!

A $70 bearing can't be expected to last.

And if you did this in 20 minutes, you are the friggin man. I think it took me two hours, and I thought I made pretty good time.
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by bartonmd » Wed Oct 19, 2011 9:11 am

JamesDowning wrote:$70 bucks, and 20 minutes?!?!

A $70 bearing can't be expected to last.

And if you did this in 20 minutes, you are the friggin man. I think it took me two hours, and I thought I made pretty good time.


Some bearings are $70, though not ours, with the ABS sensors in them...

With air tools, and having done a few of them, it's a 20 minute job...

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by fishsticks » Wed Oct 19, 2011 10:41 am

While I'm not doubting that he has a wheel bearing issue, you guys DID read the part about his tripot being loose in the diff right?

Has anyone else checked their rigs for this yet? Some of us are getting up there in miles.

I've replaced a CV half shaft in about 15 minutes at camp before. 20 mins for a hub seems pretty reasonable.


There are $40 hubs on ebay.... say what you will about them but for that price, I will change them every year if I have to.
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by bdp1978 » Wed Oct 19, 2011 11:10 am

I re-checked my receipt and flip flopped my pricing. My CV half Shaft was $70, my Hub was $117. Sorry bout that.

BUT, I stand by my 20 minutes cause Ive done it. After the tire and axle nut, it doesnt really take any longer than changing brake pads.

Hum def = a bearing and if he's pulling the shaft out he can easily pull the hub assembly. Every hub Ive ever done you can feel "it" when using your fingers to turn it.
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by Trail X » Wed Oct 19, 2011 12:43 pm

fishsticks wrote:While I'm not doubting that he has a wheel bearing issue, you guys DID read the part about his tripot being loose in the diff right?

Has anyone else checked their rigs for this yet? Some of us are getting up there in miles.

I thought he was saying his tripod joint was loose, not the tripod housing. Hard to tell sometimes what people are describing without pictures.
fishsticks wrote:I've replaced a CV half shaft in about 15 minutes at camp before. 20 mins for a hub seems pretty reasonable.

There are $40 hubs on ebay.... say what you will about them but for that price, I will change them every year if I have to.

Impressive! I must just be slow.... methodical... that's it!

Sure, low cost, but what's the failure mode? The materials are assuredly not up to spec from a strength standpoint, unless they are stolen goods. I don't want my wheels falling off when I'm back woods somewhere (and with a cheap-ass hub, I think that's a real possibility*). A hub is not an item I want to be carrying a trail spare of. They are heavy and bulky.

*not trying to scare anyone, but I deal with testing sub-specified parts from time to time... just because it fits properly, doesn't mean it's made properly, and it doesn't mean it's safe....
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by fishsticks » Wed Oct 19, 2011 1:21 pm

JamesDowning wrote:I thought he was saying his tripod joint was loose, not the tripod housing. Hard to tell sometimes what people are describing without pictures.


I think the only reason it stuck out to me is that I'm seeing a similar symptom in my own truck. He's definitely talking about the housing to diff connection. If you look at the pics of Mario's old diff seal, I think he may have the same issue. The other possibility is that aftermarket half-shafts have a slightly smaller journal diameter. I need to get out my micrometer and verify this with one of my OEM cores.


Sure, low cost, but what's the failure mode? The materials are assuredly not up to spec from a strength standpoint, unless they are stolen goods. I don't want my wheels falling off when I'm back woods somewhere (and with a cheap-ass hub, I think that's a real possibility*). A hub is not an item I want to be carrying a trail spare of. They are heavy and bulky.

*not trying to scare anyone, but I deal with testing sub-specified parts from time to time... just because it fits properly, doesn't mean it's made properly, and it doesn't mean it's safe....



I think it comes down to a mission difference. A lot of guys on here are overlanders/explorers/long trip takers. I don't have a family that enjoys 1000 mile overland trips. Most of my wheeling is done less than 100 miles from home, and much of the time I'm by myself in the truck. A lot of guys I know trailer in on our trips. We EXPECT to break... and some of the things that make us break don't care where the part was made.


Now if you'll excuse me... I just realized I don't carry a spare hub. :oops:
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by Trail X » Wed Oct 19, 2011 2:44 pm

fishsticks wrote:I think it comes down to a mission difference.


Indeed... enough discussion, we need Moose to get back and clarify some things.
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by Mooseknuckle » Wed Oct 19, 2011 3:52 pm

Yes I'm sorry I'm gonna check it out on Friday and I will post pics of everything. The hum I am describing I can feel under my feet as I drive. It almost sounds like a tire rubbing. Now I put my foot on the brake while serving if it were a wheel bearing would the pitch of that noise change? Yes Fish is right I was talking about the cv shaft from the diff I could move the shaft up and down back and forth a lot more then passenger side. I replaced my diff fluid and when I changed the shaft the fluid looked metallic almost black not sure that is normal.


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by Mooseknuckle » Sat Oct 22, 2011 2:43 pm

Ok update. My buddy is a diesel mechanic. Lucky for me he had the time to come over and being the Chassis ear with him. We hooked it up inner and outter leads. Sure enough he said its coming from the driver side outter. Wheel bearing. I will keep everyone posted after I pick up the new one and we take it all apart to really see what the deal is.


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by Mooseknuckle » Sun Oct 23, 2011 7:44 pm

Ok we hooked the chassis ear up and found that it was the driver side wheel bearing. Replaced with a new Timken wheel bearing 163.00 with tax at autozone. Air tools and a lot of beers took a half an hour. Hum is gone. Also adjusted my parking brake now it works like a champ. Now I just have to figure out why my heat only gets hot when I put it at 90 otherwise blows lukewarm and now my 4x4 actuator is acting up wont engage into 4 hi but it will engage into 4lo. Oh man I need a beer. Thanks guys. Lol


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