I think my G80 is not G80ing...

[fishsticks]

Thanks.

II usually just do what "feels" right on the cover bolts anyway.

[KE7WOX]

55 ft-lbs

Remember, the COVER bolts are only 20 (18 for the 8.6"). Don't ask me how I know.

Probably the same way my friend found out that you can overtorque the wheel lugnuts.

[fishsticks]

Well, the part arrived this morning. I was able to put it in without removing the carrier from the truck. It really didn't take too much time at all. My G80 engages nicely now.

The bad news: It doesn't look like I have enough clutch material left. While I can get both wheels to lock up and spin in the air, it won't drive off of a jackstand with one wheel in the air.





I'm considering just doing this:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=856117

[Trail X]

Any pics of the process? I'm amazed you could remove it without removing the carrier.

[bgwolfpack]

If you do this I'll take the pics. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=856117

Any idea what it may cost to rebuild it altogether?

[fishsticks]

I was going to do a writeup of this procedure so I took pictures. I kinda got discouraged after I discovered my clutches are toast.

New Parts:


Part to replace:


Bearing cap off, exposing other side of bushings.


Using a 7mm wrench around the shaft of the old governor. I did this to keep the shoulder on the bushing in tact while I knocked it out. Put a wide blade screwdriver against the wrench head and gave it some slow but firm taps with my 3lb sledge. Slow and steady.


Bushing popped out. It's awfully close to that bearing, but you can wiggle it out without hurting anything.


New vs old governor. Ick.


New part in place.


Bushing goes back in with a punch. Easy does it. You have to allow for some play or the governor won't spin and you'll have a locked up all the time G80.


All set.



I didn't do the bottom weight as the mating surfaces on both old parts looked fine and the bushing for the bottom weight didn't really seem to want to move.

I just wish it would have worked.

[fishsticks]

If you do this I'll take the pics. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=856117

Any idea what it may cost to rebuild it altogether?

I'm basically a set of clutch packs away from rebuilding the locking portion. If I pull the carrier I'll be doing inner and outer bearings while I'm in there. I'd ditch the whole deal and go 8.6 but the only one's with 4.10 gears that are worth a damn on car-part.com are $700 ish and in Spokane.

I can't find anywhere to buy clutch packs for any G80 except GM. Over $300 for both sets.

If I was 8.6 already for the money I'm looking at I could have a Detroit Locker.

[fishsticks]

I misspoke. Look like around $180 for both clutch sets from parts4chevys and/or gmpartsdirect.

PN 26045829 Right
PN 12471404 Left




This is going to be the first rear axle I've ever bothered to actually take apart and fix instead of just throwing it out...

[fishsticks]

So I tackled the G80 rebuild yesterday. I discovered pretty quickly that there was more extensive damage than I originally thought.

I did a write up on the rebuild for other's benefit, but my G80 is still in triage. I have cam gear teeth that are stripped, which I never saw until I disassembled the carrier. My spider gears are in terrible shape as well.

I'm to the point now where I'm no longer interested in sinking hundreds of dollars into this rear end. It's obviously not going to stand up to abuse. Junkyards are gouging for rear axles in my area, even in other gear ratios.

I'm thinking I may become the first Trailvoy on record with a welded rear end. Welding everything up will eliminate the problem of a flaky G80 as well as keeping my spider gears from exploding.

It's a functional, if temporary fix while I weigh my rear axle replacement options.

Thoughts?

[The Roadie]

It will squeal on every turn and be very very nasty to drive on pavement.

[irishboy02]

It will squeal on every turn and be very very nasty to drive on pavement.

Especially with off-road tires. If there was already snow in the forecast id maybe say do it but i dont see it being beneficial at all at this point. Just leave it open diff, like most of us, untill your ready to do the work. No point in even wasting the extra time. You can still wheel until its done. Waste IMO.

[fishsticks]

I'm aware it's probably going to be a squalling, tire wearing mess. If my spider gears weren't trashed, I wouldn't even consider it.

My worry is grenading the rear before I have a replacement lined up.


90% of the trailvoy rear axles are at one junkyard in Spokane... and they seem to know that. No way am I paying 900+ for a junkyard axle.

[Trail X]

Sorry to hear you had hidden issues.

I worry some about snapping or bending a half shaft if you weld the diff. Large tires on dry pavement create a ton of torque. You'd certainly be torquing them a good bit if you ever do some tight maneuvering in a parking lot.

[SteveTB03]

Hey Donny there's a place in Tacoma I believe that has axles in 3.73's and a locker for 500$ and when you give them your old axle they'll give you $250 bucks back. Not too many miles on those bad boys either. I think I saw one that had like 70,000 miles on them which is better then yours I'm sure.

Ill get the number for you tomorrow and text it.

[fishsticks]

Hey Donny there's a place in Tacoma I believe that has axles in 3.73's and a locker for 500$ and when you give them your old axle they'll give you $250 bucks back. Not too many miles on those bad boys either. I think I saw one that had like 70,000 miles on them which is better then yours I'm sure.

Ill get the number for you tomorrow and text it.

That may be an option. I really don't need anything but the carrier, especially since I have 4.10s.

Thanks man.


If I could find a 12 bolt set up for coils I'd be really happy, even if the length was slightly off. Oh well.

[HARDTRAILZ]

I would have welded to too. Much more functional if you are going to wheel it. My bubby's TJ has been welded for a couple year with swampers and no ill effect other than full posi burnouts he loves to do wearing the tires out.

As long as you dont power thru turns you should be fine. You may find it a more permanent solution than you thought.

I have street driven lockers and you just got to pay attention, but the benefits outweigh the costs, esp since you had to do something.

I know if my rear was open, I would have been screwed all day yesterday. I was dreaming of a front locker.


I do have a question...Have any of you speaking negatively of this mod actuallly driven a welded or full locked rear on pavement?

[The Roadie]

I do have a question...Have any of you speaking negatively of this mod actuallly driven a welded or full locked rear on pavement?

Heck no. I just read stuff on Pirate and believe it. I suppose that's foolish.

[HARDTRAILZ]

Pirate is a land of its own. Tons of BS and lots of dicks. Some pretty cool stuff gets built but I question a lot of what they do or say.

[Philberto]

Pirate? All I do over there is drool over bobbed Deuces.....

Oh, and that one hydraulic articulating contraption that dude built.

[johnburgelin]

I do have a question...Have any of you speaking negatively of this mod actuallly driven a welded or full locked rear on pavement?

Heck no. I just read stuff on Pirate and believe it. I suppose that's foolish.

I've driven around a monte carlo SS with a welded rear end and some awfully sticky drag radials in the back. It makes it a little difficult to pull a tight turn without squeaking a tire, but I usually just end up making wider turns or doing a 3 point turn. It does however feel awfully solid when you smash on the gas pedal. No uneven wheel slippage, and you are going in whatever direction the car is facing (not necessarily a good thing if you whip the rear end sideways)