Grinding Noise Only When turning Right??

[DirtyBacon04]

Checked with the shop and they think its rust on the rotors. I can'treally see rust causing the noise. Could it be the heat shield?

I suggested the heat shield in the first post...
But I'm still putting my money on hub. Lets not hear any more he said she said from your mechanic. Just let us know when you do some maintenance. You've got a general consensus from the members as to what it may be. If i hear any more could it be this or that, I'm going to start throwing out retarded ideas as to what it could be just to lead you off out of spite.

[Cable810]

Ok ok I'll shut up

[Cable810]

I took off the wheel and attempted to remove the caliper to check the rotor. To cut to the chase the Caliper won't come off. The bolts that hold it on are rusted in there really good, and I don't have the proper tools to remove it. All I got is 18mm in 3/8 drive.....

I spun the whole assembly and I noticed while spining it that when the rotor reaches a certian point it makes a different noise. That noise is coming when it reaches the Caliper. Hope y'all can tell in the video here:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vOW93fDntw

The heat Shield is making NO contact with the rotor. Its about <1/4" away from the rotor at the bottom(Towrds the ground)
I'm thinking that if it is the heat sheild wouldn't it constantly make the noise no matter what?

[DirtyBacon04]

*deep breath* Okay.
Here's my diagnosis. Your heatshield is alot closer than mine. Granted yours isnt touching in the video, agreed. HOWEVER. Add a couple thousand pounds and lateral stress on it and a worn hub assy could allow it to shift enough to make contact at certain points. If you replace the hub and it's still doing it, then come ask us. But removing the tire and spinning the rotor is not maintenance.
As for your rusted bolts... figure it out and get it done. You're turning into a spoon feeder and I'm not liking it.



Look at the top line in my signature.

[Cable810]

Yea if I f**** something up my parents wont like it. I did everything I had in my book to let them let me install the lift. I could get the bolts BUT I DO NOT have the tools for it. I have no 18mm Socket in a 1/2 drive, pretty much every socket I own is a 3/8s.

[DirtyBacon04]

Use leverage. Figure out some kind of way to make a breaker bar or extension to slide over your 3/8 ratchet handle. A highlift handle, maybe?

[navigator]

I agree with Bacon that your shield is a little close.
Try Taping up the tip of a flat screwdriver and pry the shield out a little and see if that helps.
If you have to get it off, sometimes you can hit the ratchet with a hammer which works kind of like a mini-impact. Using a pipe over the ratchet might work also but it could be too much stress and bust the ratchet.

You might want to invest in a 1/2 drive socket set and a pull handle if you don't already have one.
I have a cheap Stanley set from Walmart which has been all I have ever needed. I expect the cheap ones from Harbor Freight will work fine in most situations.

I buy cheap tools usually with the idea that if I break them I replace them with a better brand. Seems to work for me, I've not broken many.

[dvanbramer88]

Tools are a huge investment. Harbor freight tools are cheap and they work. INVEST. It will make your life so much easier.

[DirtyBacon04]

Or try tightening the bolts slightly to break the "surface tension" if that makes sense.

[Cable810]

Try Taping up the tip of a flat screwdriver and pry the shield out a little and see if that helps.
If you have to get it off, sometimes you can hit the ratchet with a hammer which works kind of like a mini-impact. Using a pipe over the ratchet might work also but it could be too much stress and bust the ratchet.

Broke one screwdriver(Stanley) tring to pry the heat sheild away. Been pound away on my ratching with a hammar an mallet, and nothing, Pb Blaster more pounding... nothing.

Guess I'll mess with that Heat Sheild. Just spend 100 Bucks on a Craftsman 200pc Set.... You'd figure that they would have more 1/2 Sockets but NOOO its gotta be 3/8s and 1/4s

One Other thing! The heat sheild on the Right side is as close as the left but no noise when I turn left...

[dvanbramer88]

This isn't meant to insult you, but are you trying to turn it in the correct direction? I spent hours on my dad's truck's calipers trying to break the bolts and i was turning the wrong way the whole time. Also, they could have lock-tite on them. Heat should help too. Even just a propane plumbers torch.

[navigator]

maybe it is the rotor then. Does the one on the right have more of a lip on the edge than the other one?
You might be able to sand that lip down a little.
The good news is it doesn't appear to be anything serious just more annoying than anything.

[navigator]

LOL Dave, with it being backwards I can see that being an issue. I was helping my son do his brakes the other day on his jeep and he had the same issue. The good part is I only let him strain on it for about a minute before I reminded him it was backwards.

[Trail X]

If you have to get it off, sometimes you can hit the ratchet with a hammer which works kind of like a mini-impact. Using a pipe over the ratchet might work also but it could be too much stress and bust the ratchet.

I've never had a hammer and ratchet combo work for me. Pipe is the way! Worst case, you need a new ratchet - big deal.

I do remember those suckers being on there good... I had to use a pipe to get mine off.

I'm still waiting to hear the results of your own personal highway veer tests - and 30 doesn't cut it.

[v7guy]

I ended up using my 1/2" breaker bar from harbor freight, it's $11 and works
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-drive-2 ... 67933.html

I also picked up these in metric and standard. I use em on the breaker and the impact.
http://www.harborfreight.com/13-piece-1 ... 67903.html

For about $55 you have a half inch set that will do the majority of the bigger work. I remember those bolts being a real pain in the ass. But they should be, they hold your brakes on. Don't worry about not having some popular name brand tool. The bolt doesn't care what the side of the wrench says, it's still going to be a stubborn prick.

I'm with the other guys, sounds like a hub. But you have to do what everyone is saying and get on the highway. You don't even need to veer side to side if you don't want. Get to a section with a sweeping turn and it'll have the same effect. You can't check it by hand cause as the vehicle shifts weight on the highway it's transferring a couple thousand lbs to one side. You're not able to replicate that by hand.


Out of curiosity, what's the point of coming on here to get an answer if you don't listen to the answer given?
We frequently point you in the right direction and then spend another page or more worth of replies trying to get you to test it to verify. Meanwhile you listen to every Tom, Joe and Mary that doesn't have a massive amount of experience on this platform and tell us you can't really find anything they're telling you to check.
It's getting pretty old.

[Cable810]

Out of curiosity, what's the point of coming on here to get an answer if you don't listen to the answer given?
We frequently point you in the right direction and then spend another page or more worth of replies trying to get you to test it to verify. Meanwhile you listen to every Tom, Joe and Mary that doesn't have a massive amount of experience on this platform and tell us you can't really find anything they're telling you to check.
It's getting pretty old.

Money is a little tight right now, and the last think I need is a bad hub. Got college in a month or so.... I tell my parents what y'all say and they are like what does the Shop say..... My parents don't really accepct the fact of me going by what y'all say. When y'all have the MOST and HIGHEST knowledge of our platform. For a guy to have to replace his hubs 1-3 times a year he should know the early sound of one going bad IMO.

I have reason to beleive that its either the rotor or Hub. Just not wanting it to be the Hub.

SO today I WILL DO Veer Test on my way to church tonight and get back to y'all

[Trail X]

Front hubs really aren't that big of a deal to replace. They're just a bit costly.

If you haven't read this:
http://www.offroadtb.com/articles/how-t ... placement/

[Cable810]

Read it, along with the Chiltons Manual. My friend who gave me a hand with the lift said they they are easy to replace and he proceeded to tell me you unbolt this this and this, and then it slides right off. Or something like that. He said they they were the same as ones he has replaced in the past.

[The Roadie]

.... I tell my parents what y'all say and they are like what does the Shop say..... My parents don't really accepct the fact of me going by what y'all say. ...

Are they new to this Internet phenomenon of experienced and altruistic volunteers posting for the love of the platform and "passing it on" , or new to the concept of seeking out specialists from the "big city"?

Tell them we're the on-line equivalent of a barn raising work party.

[Mrs. Roadie says to not insert a targeted picture at this point......OK......]

[navigator]

We can start a new thread called "The Shop" and then when we give Caleb answers he can tell his parents "The Shop said......."