Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Is this normal tripot play (video inside)

Something not working right?

by v7guy » Wed Oct 26, 2011 11:50 am

The Roadie wrote:AAM might have reused bearings and seals from other platforms, but our diff housing is unique. The 7.25" gears are the same as the H3 and other small platforms like the Astro/Safari van.

I discovered that when looking at swapping to the cast iron housing... proved fruitless. Just didn't know how isolated our front diff was. Seems like we are essentially stuck with our housing unless we make a subframe... or do what chevycrew did.

At this point I'd like to just fix this problem and build some skids.

I assume the bearings and seals are the same on each side since the axles are swappable... the disconnect axle bearing and seal is the same on the drivers side. For example, assuming I R&R the/splined disconnect I'd order 4 bearings and two outside seals since I'm doing both sides?

4WD works fine so I assume the disconnect is good other than maintenance.

Don't mean to beat the dead horse, just wanted to verify before I order.
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by fishsticks » Wed Oct 26, 2011 2:00 pm

On the plus side, it appears GMs reengineering of the aluminum housing and mounting of it to the oil pan has made it much stronger. It's able to put up with a lot more than the older aluminum S10 units could. I was worried I was going to vaporize mine the first time I went out with a locker.
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by v7guy » Wed Nov 09, 2011 6:44 pm

Went to the dealer today and picked up the outside seal and the axle bearing
The seal (as mentioned elsewhere) is GM# 19257296.
The bearing is GM# 26053326

On the diagram at the dealer it showed the preload adj/sleeve being in between the axle bearing and the sleeve, the guy behind the counter was saying I needed it too, but I've been told here in this thread you don't need it. I dunno. This axle bearing is awfully small to be taking the load it does
I wasn't too inclined to believe the guy at the dealership and didn't pick it up the preload adj, I assume it's not common for that part to be worn.
I'm still waiting on the parts to rebuild the disconnect.
Starting to get a vibration in the front now, hopin to take care of it in a week.

If there's anything else special about the driver side bearing post up. I'll take some pictures and try to get it documented, it appears pretty straight forward. I haven't found a lot of info on the drivers side bearing R&R.
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by Trail X » Wed Nov 09, 2011 6:55 pm

Bearing part number is the same as on the disconnect side. So that's good. Still not sure how you're going to remove the bearing from the diff without pulling the diff. I'd like to see pics once you remove the seal to refresh my memory. I have replaced the seal, but I really don't remember what the adjuster looked like... just that the 'teeth' in the seal hold the adjuster in place.
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by fishsticks » Wed Nov 09, 2011 7:03 pm

JamesDowning wrote:Bearing part number is the same as on the disconnect side. So that's good. Still not sure how you're going to remove the bearing from the diff without pulling the diff. I'd like to see pics once you remove the seal to refresh my memory. I have replaced the seal, but I really don't remember what the adjuster looked like... just that the 'teeth' in the seal hold the adjuster in place.



Image


Seal pops out. Adjuster unscrews.
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by v7guy » Wed Nov 09, 2011 9:04 pm

you guys think I'd be better off just yankin the diff out instead of trying to mess with it mounted in the vehicle?

Mostly I'm just worried about getting the adjuster screwed back down with the room available.
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by Trail X » Thu Nov 10, 2011 10:41 am

I know that much Donny... but does the adjuster and bearing press in? If so, that would be nearly impossible to get out without pulling the diff.

Or is the bearing pressed into the adjuster, which threads in? Sorry can't picture what is behind the seal right now.
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by fishsticks » Thu Nov 10, 2011 11:48 am

JamesDowning wrote:Or is the bearing pressed into the adjuster, which threads in? Sorry can't picture what is behind the seal right now.



This.
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by v7guy » Tue Nov 22, 2011 1:17 am

With all the talk about maybe pulling the diff and the preload adj having to be unscrewed etc I figured I would just check it out for myself, so today this arrives in the mail...

Image

I was able to pull the seal out with a pair of vise grips...

Image


Behind the seal is the screw on adj. for the preload. The bearing is pressed into the screw on adj, it comes out with a bearing puller of some sort with very minimal fuss. I didn't have a bearing puller handy so I put a notch in a piece of rebar so I could grab the back side of the bearing, and then welded on a piece of 3/16ths plate on the other end so I could hit it with a dead blow hammer. The tool is laying in front of the diff, the bearing is between the tool and the diff. It looks like it'll be fairly easy to get this bearing out on the vehicle and there's no need to unscrew the preload adj.

Image
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by fishsticks » Tue Nov 22, 2011 2:50 am

Hmmm.... an extra front diff to regear and lock at your leisure... :mrgreen:
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by v7guy » Tue Nov 22, 2011 1:35 pm

That was kinda my thought. The trailblazer is my DD so I can't afford much downtime, makes it "easy" if I'm just swapping in the assembly. When I rebuild/regear I'll document it. Plus maybe I can sell the spare when I'm done.
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by Trail X » Wed Nov 23, 2011 6:07 pm

What does turning the adjuster do?

From our earlier conversation, I thought it was basically just a 'vehicle' in which to service the outer roller bearing.
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by fishsticks » Wed Nov 23, 2011 7:35 pm

JamesDowning wrote:What does turning the adjuster do?

From our earlier conversation, I thought it was basically just a 'vehicle' in which to service the outer roller bearing.



Preload for the carrier bearings. In conjunction with the adjuster on the other side, it works like shims do in the rear axle. You can unscrew one and not affect the backlash though.
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by v7guy » Wed Nov 23, 2011 8:33 pm

It would also appear to be pretty difficult to tighten that adjuster on the vehicle. Might be able to if you made a tool. As Donny mentioned elsewhere using a screwdriver will probably end up messing up the "teeth" pretty good.
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by fishsticks » Wed Nov 23, 2011 9:04 pm

v7guy wrote:It would also appear to be pretty difficult to tighten that adjuster on the vehicle. Might be able to if you made a tool. As Donny mentioned elsewhere using a screwdriver will probably end up messing up the "teeth" pretty good.



I used a screwdriver and hammer to tension mine. It's the threads you have to worry about, not the teeth.
11 Silverado LTZ - 6.2L/6l80, 2/3 drop, self tuned
85 Hilux - 3RZ, dual cases, caged, 40s, chromo everything
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by v7guy » Fri Dec 09, 2011 9:42 pm

Got this taken apart, in short it looks like that is indeed normal play.

The bearing came out and looks brand new, I checked for play between the axle and the old bearing and the axle and the new bearing and it's the same amount of play. I also checked in the diff and it appears that everything is tight and there is no appreciable wear, splines look good, there's no obvious wear in the carrier bearings.
I also picked up another half shaft and tested the bearings on it and the play is the same. So it would appear there is a pretty significant amount of wiggle in the splines/bearings/axle.
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