4Wd Disconnect Rebuilt Succesfully, then 4WD Stopped Working

[arl120384]

Hey guys,

virgin poster here on ORTB, coming over from TrailVoy. Looking to pick your brains, yet again about the 4WD system.

Here's the story, I used TV to diagnose the all too familiar 4WD disconnect problem. I rebuilt it, and found the bearings to be all torn up. I tested it immediately after, and it worked! Jacked it up, and the front end locked, it crabbed as I turned, I was happy as a clam. A few months later, (after having put the MC suspension lift on, 1.5" wheel spacers, new 265/65 tires, and using the hose clamp trick on my CV joints and re-greasing them cause they slipped off), I figured I'd work the system to keep it in working order. It didn't work. Every so often, while making a slow turn, I hear a sort of vibration coming from the, what sounds to be, the left side tire area. No signs of rubbing, and its not consistent.

Now, I am not sure of the rubbing, lift, tires, etc are part of the cause, but it's worth mentioning. I scoured the forums here, as well as TV, and saw anything from wheel bearings, to steering stops, to tires rubbing. I'm at a loss. Unless something re-failed in the disconnect, I have no idea.

Side note, I still hear the 2 motors working (x-fer case, and disconnect motor) when I select 4HI/LO etc.

Your expertise much appreciated!

ARL

[fishsticks]

Howdy.

TrailVoy is dead to us. All of the original brain trust from TV (the people who made just about every INFORMATIVE post) moved to http://www.GMTNation.com. Many of us are banned from TV now.


Put your truck into 4HI. Jack up the front right wheel and try to turn it. It shouldn't turn. If it does, try to isolate any sounds that are coming from the front end. Pop the actuator off and push the shift fork in all the way with a screwdriver. If the wheel won't turn anymore then your actuator is weak.

[arl120384]

I will try that and report back, thank you. I always wondered how that actuator, being a small motor, has enough force to push that shift fork in....

Thanks again...

[fishsticks]

I will try that and report back, thank you. I always wondered how that actuator, being a small motor, has enough force to push that shift fork in....

Thanks again...

The spring is pretty soft....you can stick your finger in there and push it in.

Can you point me to the thread that you referenced to diagnose your 4WD originally? We've already seen one instance of Trailvoy plagiarizing content that we took with us, I'm interested to see if my 4WD diagnosis thread has popped up somewhere else.

[arl120384]

I didn't realize there was such bad blood over there! I'm mobile right now, but I just compiled a bunch of info from the TV forums, which eventually sent me here to the 4WD flow chart for ultimate diagnosis.

[navigator]

here is the story about trailvoy
http://gmtnation.com/f5/welcome-gmtnati ... story-226/
basically once vertical scope bought them they increased the ads so much and never fulfilled promises they made to a point that the folks who were contributing the most built a newer/better model and left.

Many folks that moved have tried to alert the folks on TV to move and were banned or worse put on global ignore. Global ignore still shows you as a user but no one can read your posts. When you notice funny things about not being able to go to certain pages or posts skipping counts, that is why. No one has any real beef with the members still over there, just the admins and the owners.

[The Roadie]

I will try that and report back, thank you. I always wondered how that actuator, being a small motor, has enough force to push that shift fork in....

I had a thread over there about rebuilding an actuator, and the secret is a massive reduction gear train. The little motor whines for a long time at high RPM, and it's geared down so the button only moves outward about 1/2". There is a hidden gear train in this picture horizontally inside the final pusher button assembly.

[arl120384]

Ok thanks Bill,

I'll check out the actuator, and check the movement as well as the movement of the shift fork.

[DirtyBacon04]

shoulda rebuilt it with the AWD sleeve. Elminates all those problems

[arl120384]

shoulda rebuilt it with the AWD sleeve. Elminates all those problems

I'm unfamiliar...

[DirtyBacon04]

Fishsticks went through as did I. The sleeve replaces the syncro forks and all the gears. making the actuator functionally useless. We leave it plugged in to avoid error codes, but just zip tie it up out of the way. a

viewtopic.php?f=32&t=2019

[arl120384]

Ok I'll check that out as an option. Configured as an AWD, does it turn like a 4WD vehicle would on dry pavement? Also, whats the gas mileage increase?

Thanks guys!

Edit, maybe I misunderstood. Just confirm that it locks the front axles together, but you still have to select 4WD on the switch to engage the differential, correct?

[DirtyBacon04]

Well, I stopped paying attention to my fuel economy because i recently discovered my avg is 10-12 mpg... So it hurts less if i dont think about it.
The only difference with the sleeve vs gears is that your pass CV shaft and intermediate shaft will be permentaly connected. 2 hi, 4hi, and 4 lo will still drive the same as they do now

[v7guy]

The transfer case engages 4WD. So in two wheel drive the front isn't connected. When in 4WD both front tires will be connected at all times. Auto 4WD drive won't work, which is largely good because engaging at higher speeds shocks the disconnect and apparently that's the cause of a lot of breakage.
It would appear that the AWD sleeve is the way to go (only one member has broke it). The next best upgrade seems to be the ole lock right locker

[arl120384]

Ok guys thanks, Ill check out the how-to thread above!

[arl120384]

I checked the thread about the repair, and I cant seem to find a part # anywhere. Anyone have one? Also, is it as easy as removing the fork and gears (keeping washers/bearings) and just inserting the sleeve. Seems foolproof, but I'm sure I'm missing something!

[DirtyBacon04]

When I did it i replaced the whole assy, because I broke broke both side of the housing..... I could give you the p/n of the whole awd assy

[chevycrew]

I found the sleeve at www.gmpartseast.com it lists for $80.

http://www.gmpartseast.com/Page_Product ... =56S&Year=

The Sleeve is key #5 or Part # **471636

[Trail X]

The transfer case engages 4WD. So in two wheel drive the front isn't connected. When in 4WD both front tires will be connected at all times. Auto 4WD drive won't work, which is largely good because engaging at higher speeds shocks the disconnect and apparently that's the cause of a lot of breakage.

Incorrect. A4WD will still work fine with a AWD front end. A4WD controls the torque transferred to the front axle by varying the pressure on the clutch plates in the transfer case. When in A4WD, the front disconnect is engaged full time.

A4WD is credited for failing the transfer case itself in earlier model year vehicles, as a particular bearing was upgraded later on (prior to 2005 models I believe).

[arl120384]

Ok. Since I just rebuilt the whole front assembly a few months ago, I don't anticipate having issues getting it off. If I can't get it fixed I may go this route, and it seems all I Would need is this sleeve, correct?