Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

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by navigator » Sun Mar 31, 2013 8:32 am

I did the same thing. It would be better if the terminals were reversed then the positive would be further away from the brace.
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by mikekey » Sun Mar 31, 2013 9:11 am

wink wrote:Trans Cooler installed. Ordered the kit from PCMs For Less. The kit's instructions wanted me to remove the return line for the system to run Trans>Rad>Cooler>Trans. Instead I removed the "in" line to run the system Trans>Cooler>Rad>Trans.

Image


Wait! What? Why did you do that? You like heating up your transmission fluid after you cooled it down? You do realize that?
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by dvanbramer88 » Sun Mar 31, 2013 10:55 am

I thought the same thing. It should be trans-rad-cooler-trans. The radiator will only make the transmission fluid right around engine operating temp. Whether it is cooling the fluid, or warming it up to get there.

You want the radiator to drop the trans fluid temp to engine operating temp, than the cooler cools it further. They way you're running it, the cooler is cooling the fluid, than the radiator is warming it back up.
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by Diacom » Sun Mar 31, 2013 11:41 am

Don't go giving a bunch of miss-information here. There has long been debate, on this site as well, of which is better. Rad to cooler or cooler to rad.

You have to keep in mind, you do not want to over cool the trans fluid. It needs to be at a certain operating temp, iirc around 170-180 degrees.

Depending on the size of the cooler you are using, you can easily over-cool the fluid. Be sure to research what you have before you decide which way to plumb it. If you search, you will find the information already listed on this site.
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by bartonmd » Sun Mar 31, 2013 12:33 pm

I agree with Diacom. Important not to over-cool the trans in a cold climate. Made that mistake on my Caprice, and the moisture that didn't get baked out of the trans would freeze and make it not operate correctly. I'd run the piss out of it and get it to 200 once, and it would be fine for another few weeks and the cycle would repeat.

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by mikekey » Sun Mar 31, 2013 1:15 pm

Actually valid points guys. I didn't even consider where he might live and climate.
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by v7guy » Sun Mar 31, 2013 1:23 pm

Even if there's a debate about how cool it gets and if it's good or not, it's easy to put a thermostat inline. It's done for oil relatively commonly. That solves overcooling. Plus it's quick and easy, despite being a couple bucks.

I would still replumb it to cool it as much as possible and then add the thermostat to ensure it doesn't get too cool. Just one man's opinion, ymmv
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by wink » Mon Apr 01, 2013 11:03 am

Regulator1175 wrote:Get rid of that cross brace. Even with the caps on the top terminals I didn't feel safe running with the brace as close to the positive terminal as it is!


Didn't even think of that, thanks for the heads up.

In regards to my trans cooler setup, it also helped reduce coolant temps since the radiator doesn't have to cool the trans also.
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by Trail X » Mon Apr 01, 2013 11:22 am

I did the same thing Kevin. Its kept my engine temps down, and my trans temps warm up properly, and never go above about 180. Normally it sits around 140-150.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Mon Apr 01, 2013 11:44 am

I run the battery brace w mine.
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by DirtyBacon04 » Mon Apr 01, 2013 12:02 pm

JamesDowning wrote:I did the same thing Kevin. Its kept my engine temps down, and my trans temps warm up properly, and never go above about 180. Normally it sits around 140-150.


So whats the proper "warmed up" temp for the xmsn. I'm running rad to cooler and I'm keeping about the same temps as JD, but thats also with 33" on 3.42.
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by Trail X » Mon Apr 01, 2013 12:18 pm

Good temps are around 140-200. Get above 200 and thats when I start getting a little worried. Mike probably has better insight to this than I.

Bacon, yours may stay a little warmer than mine (if all things were equal) since I have 100% lockup in the torque converter clutch. Yours will be creating more heat than mine when yours is locked. So with more cooling, we may equal out at a similar "steady state" temp.
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by navigator » Mon Apr 01, 2013 2:38 pm

I just installed my ScanGauge the other day and I think mine has been running about 150 with 30" tires but before today I hadn't really been over 10 miles with it yet.

Saturday I put on some takeoff Tahoe wheels that have some old 265s on there and today pulling a trailer it got up to 205 and it isn't even that warm out (~70). My coolant temp was 202-205 and my tranny temp was 195-205.

I have a new cooler to install this week, I think I will run it tranny/cooler/rad/tranny.
Last edited by navigator on Mon Apr 01, 2013 3:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: clarified some info
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by Trail X » Mon Apr 01, 2013 3:28 pm

Steady state comes only after 30 or so highway miles.
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by wink » Tue Apr 02, 2013 4:15 pm

HARDTRAILZ wrote:I run the battery brace w mine.


I would rather run with the brace. I wonder if wrapping it in eletrical tape would be helpful or if it wouldn't make a difference?
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by djthumper » Tue Apr 02, 2013 4:29 pm

wink wrote:
HARDTRAILZ wrote:I run the battery brace w mine.


I would rather run with the brace. I wonder if wrapping it in eletrical tape would be helpful or if it wouldn't make a difference?

Maybe try this raincoat tape. http://www.hamcq.com/raincoat-tape/cat_204.html It will handle the heat under the hood much better then any electrical tape and only sticks to itself. It can come in handy if you blow a hose on the trail.
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by boog2006 » Mon Apr 08, 2013 4:37 pm

Welcome from West Kentucky



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by dvanbramer88 » Mon Apr 08, 2013 11:41 pm

KYTB4x4 wrote:Interior Modifications: Installed one German Shepherd side kick



I like your interior mod.

Also, trim back the plastic wheel well liner since you removed the bumper cover. It looks goofy like that.
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by chevycrew » Mon Apr 08, 2013 11:43 pm

I thought it was just easier to throw the liner away?
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by dvanbramer88 » Mon Apr 08, 2013 11:47 pm

chevycrew wrote:I thought it was just easier to throw the liner away?


I might not of said what I meant. I mean the plastic that is in front of the tire behind the stock bumper cover.


Not the rubber liner that fills the frame/wheel well gap and hides the engine bay.
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