Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

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by chevycrew » Fri Sep 09, 2011 10:02 pm

The problem with the rear links is the angle, for a sas your looking at around 12" of suspension lift. Link suspensions work better with flat arms, with 12" of lift you will have an extreme angle. That's why I ditched the setup, just wouldn't work even with longer links.
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by MrSmithsTB » Fri Sep 09, 2011 10:08 pm

Drop brackets for the arms would probably do the trick. It's not a unique thing, either.
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by chevycrew » Fri Sep 09, 2011 10:18 pm

Yeah 12" drop brackets would work... But I wouldn't do it.
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by MrSmithsTB » Fri Sep 09, 2011 11:24 pm

Would they really have to be that extreme? I would think a number of components could make up for it, but I've never undertaken something like that.
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by Rob93 » Sat Sep 10, 2011 1:55 am

chevycrew wrote:The problem with the rear links is the angle, for a sas your looking at around 12" of suspension lift. Link suspensions work better with flat arms, with 12" of lift you will have an extreme angle. That's why I ditched the setup, just wouldn't work even with longer links.


Which is why you can get longer arms, that mount further up on the frame, decreasing the angle that way
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by chevycrew » Sat Sep 10, 2011 2:04 pm

Yep, but your still redoing the rear suspension like I said...
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by Rob93 » Sat Sep 10, 2011 4:08 pm

chevycrew wrote:Yep, but your still redoing the rear suspension like I said...


True, the only thing you're really keeping is the axle side link brackets
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by fishsticks » Sat Sep 10, 2011 7:03 pm

Personally, I'm not adverse to redoing the rear suspension. I just have a grand into a rear axle that I won't be able to get out of it by selling it.

I wonder though, is 12" of suspension lift really necessary? I already have a body lift, and I'd likely stay with 35-37's. If one could keep it to 6-7" of suspension lift, I think the stock(ish) rear setup would be OK. My rear arms aren't at a bad angle right now and I'm close to 5" of lift back there already.
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by chevycrew » Sat Sep 10, 2011 7:45 pm

Ill measure from my axle centerline, to the bottom of the oil pan. this will give everyone an idea how much is needed. I think I have the bare minimum for front lift with a sas and stock oil pan.

It may be less than I think for total lift.






Measured already... I have 5.5" from the centerline of the front axle, to the lowest point of the stock oil pan drain plug.

18" from ground to center of wheel, and 23.5" to bottom of pan plug.
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by fishsticks » Sat Sep 10, 2011 10:33 pm

chevycrew wrote:Ill measure from my axle centerline, to the bottom of the oil pan. this will give everyone an idea how much is needed. I think I have the bare minimum for front lift with a sas and stock oil pan.

It may be less than I think for total lift.






Measured already... I have 5.5" from the centerline of the front axle, to the lowest point of the stock oil pan drain plug.

18" from ground to center of wheel, and 23.5" to bottom of pan plug.



Yeah, my hub centers are still higher than my skid plate. That's a long way to go.

In other news, my rad skid is dented in a couple places.
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by chevycrew » Sat Sep 10, 2011 11:59 pm

Ill go measure a stock tb on my way home in the morning, just to get a good idea of where im at for lift.
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by chevycrew » Sun Sep 11, 2011 7:19 am

I put the info in my build thread too.

I have 11 inches of suspension lift when compared to a random stock TB that I measured.
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by chevycrew » Mon Sep 12, 2011 5:19 pm

This is for Dirty Anton...


http://www.mde.state.md.us/programs/Air ... tions.aspx


(18) "Multipurpose passenger vehicle" means a motor vehicle that:

(a) Is designed primarily for carrying persons which is constructed on a truck chassis or with special features for occasional off-road operations;
(b) Has 3 wheels; or
(c) Is of unique design that does not clearly meet the requirements of any other class as determined by the Division, except 4-wheel drive passenger vehicles (sedans, convertibles, and station wagons).
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by bartonmd » Tue Sep 13, 2011 3:54 pm

viewtopic.php?f=25&t=2389

Kuchar, you finally posted a build thread!!

IMO, that's one of the favorite bumpers that I've done...

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by bartonmd » Tue Sep 13, 2011 4:43 pm

OK, I'm totally stealing some of those photos...

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by bgwolfpack » Tue Sep 13, 2011 4:51 pm

Kuchar, is there a write-up on your hood?
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by janesy86 » Tue Sep 13, 2011 4:52 pm

bartonmd wrote:http://forums.offroadtb.com/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=2389

Kuchar, you finally posted a build thread!!

IMO, that's one of the favorite bumpers that I've done...

Mike


I know, def the best looking bumper! Not liike any of yours look bad anyway, but this one is badass.

And damn, Kuchar, your TB is lookin mean! :cheers:
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by Kuchar09 » Tue Sep 13, 2011 11:59 pm

Thanks guys! Didn't know there was a comment section...

Go ahead and use the pics for anything you want bartonmd, its still in black primer though since I want to do all my liner stuff at once and need to get my rear quarter panel and door repainted still :/ so will probably be waiting till next summer to get everything done.

There wasn't really much to the hood, I just hollowed out the air box so I could cut a hole out for the hood and put a seal on it. Oh and I also blocked off the OEM intake port so that the hood is bringing in all the air till the snow starts flying, then ill change it back so it doesn't restrict air.

Thanks for the compliments, can't believe it took me this long to make a build thread though... :slap:
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by HARDTRAILZ » Wed Sep 14, 2011 5:22 am

Anton and kuchar....WELL DONE!
I hate to advocate weird chemicals, alcohol, violence or insanity to anyone...but
they've always worked for me.
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by navigator » Wed Sep 14, 2011 9:24 am

Kuchar, I thought at first that cowl was to let heat out but after looking further I can see it looks like there is a duct to allow it to pull air from the cowl.

It got me thinking, if you sealed off the bottom of the air box that should almost work as a snorkel for water crossings and it looks much better to me.
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