Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

washers on struts and flipping upper control arms.

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by navigator » Sat Dec 31, 2011 5:10 pm

I know from other threads guys have put some (8-9)
3/8 grade 8 washers on their struts to give more articulation.
I'm installing new struts with my 2 inch rough country lift.
I'm also going to install Mark's 1/2 top spacer.
With only 2.5 inches of lift will it help if i put the washers in?
Also with the 2.5 inches of lift should I go ahead and flip my UCAs?

I'm thinking I might hold off on the UCA's unless the angle is severe until I need ball joints anyway.
What are your thoughts?
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by The Roadie » Sat Dec 31, 2011 6:12 pm

Every vehicle is slightly different, and OEM CV shafts are different from aftermarket ones.

Whether you can stack washers on TOP of Mark's 1/2" outside-the-strut spacer will be determined if the inner CV joint binds at full extension. I doubt you can do both. You have to test it.

Your upper ball joint angle WILL be as severe as it can get if you're pushing the maximum for outside-the-strut shimming. I would flip the UCAs since you're the poster child for breaking the ball joint stud if you don't.
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by navigator » Sat Dec 31, 2011 6:27 pm

ok, I'll go with Mark's top spacer and flip the UCA's and forget about the washers.
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by fishsticks » Sat Dec 31, 2011 8:32 pm

You won't be able to do washers and spacers. I took my spacers out when I did the washers. It's only 1/2" of lift you're losing.
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by navigator » Sat Dec 31, 2011 8:38 pm

so would it be better to use 8 or so grade 8 washers and not use the top mount spacer?
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by fishsticks » Sat Dec 31, 2011 8:43 pm

navigator wrote:so would it be better to use 8 or so grade 8 washers and not use the top mount spacer?



Cheaper...
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by navigator » Sat Dec 31, 2011 8:45 pm

I bought the top spacers a couple months ago worried that with Mark's new design he might stop making them.
I just wonder is one better than the other.
With the outside spacer would it allow the strut to have more droop during extension or would it be the same either way.
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by fishsticks » Sat Dec 31, 2011 8:48 pm

navigator wrote:I bought the top spacers a couple months ago worried that with Mark's new design he might stop making them.
I just wonder is one better than the other.
With the outside spacer would it allow the strut to have more droop during extension or would it be the same either way.



Same droop... different ride height.

Top spacers are super easy to make out of UHMW.
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by navigator » Sat Dec 31, 2011 8:52 pm

I saw a thread on that a few weeks ago, basically cutting board material if I remember right.
I'll go with the top spacer for now, I already have it so I might as well use it.

Now I just need my rear shocks to come in. They are backordered until 1/9 from Summit.
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by djthumper » Sat Dec 31, 2011 9:16 pm

What did you buy for your rear shocks?
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by navigator » Sat Dec 31, 2011 11:03 pm

the Skyjacker 8030's
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by djthumper » Sun Jan 01, 2012 4:54 am

You should like that on the rear.
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by navigator » Sun Jan 01, 2012 7:01 pm

djthumper wrote:You should like that on the rear.

if they'll just get here!
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by Trail X » Mon Jan 02, 2012 11:54 am

navigator wrote:I bought the top spacers a couple months ago worried that with Mark's new design he might stop making them.
I just wonder is one better than the other.
With the outside spacer would it allow the strut to have more droop during extension or would it be the same either way.


I think elongating the strut is the better method, personally. But it depends on your mission and capabilities I guess.

By adding the washers to the strut mount, it will allow the tire to move down farther from normal ride height.

By adding the spacer above the strut, it will raise ride height, but the downward motion will be less from the normal ride height.

It depends on whether ride height or articulation is more useful to you.
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