Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Gordinho80's Front End Overhaul

Something not working right?

by Gordinho80 » Thu Feb 03, 2011 6:43 pm

Haven't gotten around to doing the pass side axle shaft yet... I've been waiting for my spare disconnect to arrive, and it has!

I've taken it apart and the only thing that looks to need replacing is the fork. The pin is broken off. I've thought about welding the gears together... not sure if that will be my final decision yet. I still need to clean everything else properly before I make my decision, need to see if anything is worn enough to replace.

Today I crawled under the front end and noticed the new axle shaft has already flung some grease from the outside boot, on the hub side. I need to get a few 4" hose clamps and replace the clamps that came with the axles. Luckily, I caught it early enough that I haven't damaged destroyed the CV. I'll be bringing home clamps from Home Depot tomorrow.
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by Gordinho80 » Fri Feb 04, 2011 2:11 pm

Got the disconnect all apart... cleaned up as good as I could in my cold ass garage with just some rags and some elbow grease... wish I had an insulated shop with a part washer...

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Figure if I just weld the gear, I don't have to order any parts... I've already got the outside seal, just need to pick up the inside.
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by Trail X » Wed Feb 09, 2011 12:17 pm

(Sorry Mario, not trying to hijack, just following up)

OregTrailBlazin wrote:
JamesDowning wrote:I've considered investing in one of these from autozone and a slide hammer to help with that pesky inner CV joint.

$20... not bad.

Its what I use! And it works great, it well worth the 20$!! What more of an excuse does a guy need to buy a new tool!!

I went out and purchased one of these, it worked alright. Better than my previous method at least. The issue I had was that with every hammer blow, the cup would pop off the back of the tripod housing, sideways. I ended up having to ratchet strap the slide hammer to the tripod housing in order to keep it from popping off. It still took a lot of muscle, more than I hoped.

The slide hammer did really help with getting the seal removed, I just hooked the back of the seal, and three hammer slides later, the seal was out.

Also, not sure if anyone else ran into this, but I rented the ball joint press from autozone (pictured below). The press, however, was a bit too big, so it couldn't center properly on the ball joint (interfered with the vertical portion of the steering knuckle). When the press would come down on the top ball joint 'stud' (for lack of a better term), the ball joint would just rotate, instead of pressing out. A little secret - I cut a steel pipe down to around 2.5" in length, put that over the 'stud', which served to keep the stud from rotating when being pressed. I wish I had taken a picture.

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by Gordinho80 » Thu Mar 03, 2011 2:59 pm

UPDATE: Spare Disconnect is fully rebuilt and ready to go in. Pass side axle shaft also ready to go! Hopefully I'll get it all done early enough Saturday to make it to the get wheels balanced, rotated, and an alignment.
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by fishsticks » Thu Mar 03, 2011 4:46 pm

Want to sell your busted shift fork, gears and shift collar?

I think I may switch mine back to disconnectable for the front locker.

Or we could work out a trade for my welded stuff.
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by Gordinho80 » Thu Mar 03, 2011 5:23 pm

The only failed component of this disconnect was the fork. I'll send it to you if you cover shipping, I even still have the pin. Are you planning on welding the pin back on in order to use it?

I haven't decided if I'd be keeping my original disconnect around as a spare, sell it as is, or rebuild it and sell as a full replacement... I'm leaning more toward selling as is, I'd open it and see what is worn beforehand.
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by fishsticks » Thu Mar 03, 2011 5:33 pm

Gordinho80 wrote:The only failed component of this disconnect was the fork. I'll send it to you if you cover shipping, I even still have the pin. Are you planning on welding the pin back on in order to use it?

I haven't decided if I'd be keeping my original disconnect around as a spare, sell it as is, or rebuild it and sell as a full replacement... I'm leaning more toward selling as is, I'd open it and see what is worn beforehand.



I plan to drill the center section out and either install a steel pin in an interference application or thread the hole and use a bolt. I actually have my old fork still, but would like an extra to practice on. What I really need are some unmolested gears.

Figure out what/how you want to sell and PM me a price.
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by Gordinho80 » Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:13 am

So on Saturday afternoon, I finally got around to working on the disconnect and the pass side axle shaft. Spent a few ours trying to wedge the disconnect out and it wasn't going anywhere. I tried everything I could think of. Was about to call it a night when all of a sudden, POP! It just pops out... WOOOO HOOO! Or so I thought.

The back housing broke and the cup along with some of the internals... remained in. I decided to take a look at it the following morning.

I spent a couple of hours on it yesterday morning. Tried drilling holes to relieve pressure, tried hammering on it. Then I tried my little air saw... I cut a wedge out of it, careful not to hit the oil pan. Then I hammered on one of the exposed edges to rotate it in the pan. BINGO! Got it out! I had pushed the seal out into the pan so that the saw could get all of the cup, so I had to drill a screw into the back of it so that I could pull it out. Cleaned the area up real well, then greased the new housing when I put it in. Hopefully, next time won't be such an issue.

Here is the carnage...

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I also took some time to drain my front diff as well. It needed a refill. I'm all together and rolling now! WOOT! Now I just need an alignment.
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by Trail X » Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:37 pm

Sweet! Glad you figured out how to get it out. I'm still not sure how you cut out the wedge without getting the intermediate shaft.

Don't forget to update your first post! :cheers:
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by Gordinho80 » Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:49 pm

JamesDowning wrote:I'm still not sure how you cut out the wedge without getting the intermediate shaft.


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Used one of these... I had pried out the bearing already. so I had just enough room to get the blade in without touching the intermediate shaft.
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by Gordinho80 » Tue Mar 08, 2011 4:04 pm

Images of the original disconnect...

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by Gordinho80 » Thu Mar 10, 2011 10:28 am

Got my alignment... well, I guess you can say I did.

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Tech claimed they did all they could to get camber and caster within spec. I asked about the lower control arm bolts, he said they used whatever bolts they needed to in order to get it as close as they could. Seems to me as they didn't even touch the caster. He said to drive it and see how it feels. I'll be calling them later and asking if they have someone who is more familiar with the platform who can give it a shot. At least they fixed toe.
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by janesy86 » Thu Mar 10, 2011 10:34 am

With mine, they got the camber and toe perfect, and about the same as you for camber.

Wish I had someone like Kyle's competent guy... I mean I tried 2 different Firestone's.
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by Mooseknuckle » Fri Mar 11, 2011 9:08 pm

Nice. Good deal sorry I wasnt much help getting the disconnect off.
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by Countryboy » Tue Mar 06, 2012 8:41 pm

has anyone removed there front diff. if you have how did ya get it out?
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by Gordinho80 » Wed Mar 07, 2012 12:20 am

Perhaps posting your own thread? Might get more traffic that way... just sayin...
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by v7guy » Wed Mar 07, 2012 5:13 pm

Or look a bit more, there's a very recent thread talking about front diff removal
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