Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

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Trailblazer and Envoy related, but not off-road related...

by fishsticks » Mon Sep 16, 2013 9:22 am

JamesDowning wrote:What makes removing the rack difficult?



If I had to guess, it would involve the spacer those of us with body lifts had to put in.

I hate that spacer.
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by Trail X » Mon Sep 16, 2013 10:14 am

So, since I have no body lift, it could potentially be the easier route to pull the rack and lower the pan?
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by v7guy » Mon Sep 16, 2013 12:14 pm

James, I don't think the steering is really "that" bad, but you're potentially going to be messing with it for a half hour or forty five minutes, make sure you do it on a day with an abundance of patience. Since you're not wiggling that spacer around it may be easier, but I have yet to see one that's a walk in the park just because of the limited space you're working in.
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by dvanbramer88 » Mon Sep 16, 2013 12:20 pm

v7guy wrote:James, I don't think the steering is really "that" bad, but you're potentially going to be messing with it for a half hour or forty five minutes, make sure you do it on a day with an abundance of patience. Since you're not wiggling that spacer around it may be easier, but I have yet to see one that's a walk in the park just because of the limited space you're working in.



Regulator is a bigger dude with bear paws for hands. That might make a difference. Us "scrawny" guys should have an easier time reaching our hands into tighter spots.
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by Moots1288 » Mon Sep 16, 2013 1:17 pm

dvanbramer88 wrote:
v7guy wrote:James, I don't think the steering is really "that" bad, but you're potentially going to be messing with it for a half hour or forty five minutes, make sure you do it on a day with an abundance of patience. Since you're not wiggling that spacer around it may be easier, but I have yet to see one that's a walk in the park just because of the limited space you're working in.



Regulator is a bigger dude with bear paws for hands. That might make a difference. Us "scrawny" guys should have an easier time reaching our hands into tighter spots.

I don't know about that.
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by Moots1288 » Mon Sep 16, 2013 1:21 pm

fishsticks wrote:
JamesDowning wrote:What makes removing the rack difficult?



If I had to guess, it would involve the spacer those of us with body lifts had to put in.

I hate that spacer.

I should just re gear my front since I have to replace my rack and pinion
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by v7guy » Tue Sep 17, 2013 1:26 am

Moots1288 wrote:
fishsticks wrote:
JamesDowning wrote:What makes removing the rack difficult?



If I had to guess, it would involve the spacer those of us with body lifts had to put in.

I hate that spacer.

I should just re gear my front since I have to replace my rack and pinion



Yeah you should, might as well throw in a locker too
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by mikekey » Tue Sep 17, 2013 6:51 am

I'm starting a little project to fix all the small crap that is adding up before the rig turns into a POS.

Looking to hire a fabricator this week to finish my rock sliders. Needless to say, my father in law isn't as awesome as Barton's, and it's been a lot of broken promises and still no sliders. So I am having someone else do it.

Gotta fix a broken sunroof, remove my tint, fix the center console, redo some wiring, some body work on the front fenders, pull down the roof rack and deal with some rust there.

Might actually sell the Baja rack here.

Oh, this has been sitting in the box since I got it from JesterGrey, decided to unpackage it this morning, lol. Guess I'm going to need to purchase some gears. :flex dirty:

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by galacticfuzz » Tue Sep 17, 2013 1:24 pm

Getting closer to the finishing work on a roof rack I've been planning/developing/building the last week or so. Interior is roughly 47.5" x 47.5". Height total is 4". The two bars on the front and back will hold the front facing lights and the rearward facing lights. Overall dimensions are 48" x 54" x 4".

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by Regulator1175 » Tue Sep 17, 2013 1:39 pm

dvanbramer88 wrote:
v7guy wrote:James, I don't think the steering is really "that" bad, but you're potentially going to be messing with it for a half hour or forty five minutes, make sure you do it on a day with an abundance of patience. Since you're not wiggling that spacer around it may be easier, but I have yet to see one that's a walk in the park just because of the limited space you're working in.



Regulator is a bigger dude with bear paws for hands. That might make a difference. Us "scrawny" guys should have an easier time reaching our hands into tighter spots.


Yes, a big part of my problem was being able to access everything. I also had a lot of difficulty getting the two horizontal bolts out where it mounts to the frame cross bar.

When it comes down to it the only major differences are either dropping the rack and pan or removing fan, shroud, alternator, and sliding the ac compressor out of the way. Everything else is going to have to be done either way.
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by Cable810 » Tue Sep 17, 2013 2:24 pm

Trying to wire up my new lights... directions has me splicing into the Parking Lamp wire and I'm lost with that. Any Ideas?
Last edited by Cable810 on Tue Sep 17, 2013 2:59 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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by Trail X » Tue Sep 17, 2013 2:42 pm

You follow directions??
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by Cable810 » Tue Sep 17, 2013 2:46 pm

Lol yes. The reasons it seems for them to have you do that is so the lights will only turn on when the vehicle is running.
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by dvanbramer88 » Tue Sep 17, 2013 2:51 pm

Oh, you're splicing into the parking lamp wire for the relay, not the actual power for the lights.

That's really up to you if you want them to only work when the truck is running (ignition on, not necessarily engine running). Either way has it's pro's and cons.
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by Cable810 » Tue Sep 17, 2013 2:53 pm

Yeah that what the directions say. SO if I was to skip that I should be fine?
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by dvanbramer88 » Tue Sep 17, 2013 2:57 pm

Uh, not 100% sure on that. I'm a little rusty when it comes to relays. You may need to wire the relay to something with power in substitution of the parking lamp wire.

Idk if the relay will work without that pole connected to power. You could just wire it to a constant hot and it will work as the system was intended, all the time.
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by Cable810 » Tue Sep 17, 2013 2:58 pm

Hmm ok. I'll give it a shot.
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by Trail X » Tue Sep 17, 2013 3:03 pm

Don't just wire it to constant 12v. Easy way to forget and kill your battery (ask me how I know).

Wire it into an add-a-fuse at the HVAC fuse from under the rear seat.
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by Regulator1175 » Tue Sep 17, 2013 7:46 pm

I re assembled the front end this afternoon. It took me about 2 hours from start to finish. Now just need to add diff fluid and top off the radiator. O2 sensor arrives tomorrow and I will pick up a AC sensor that I managed to break.

I started to tear down the rear end to get ready for the new rear end, and I found something very interesting. It appears that I did more damage than just the teeth on the G80.

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Yes, that is both of the axle shafts twisted and snapped! :awesome:
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by dvanbramer88 » Tue Sep 17, 2013 8:08 pm

Regulator1175 wrote:
Yes, that is both of the axle shafts twisted and snapped! :awesome:




GET SOME! :viking:
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