Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Best way to Repair this....RUST(pic Heavy)

Trailblazer and Envoy related, but not off-road related...

by Cable810 » Wed May 30, 2012 12:36 pm

Rear Lift Gate
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Left Passenger Door

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The rest of the doors aren't as bad as the one. They have bubbly paint and small rust spots.

So what would be the best way for me to repair this??? I allready have a Rust stopper(Ospho) I'm thinking for inside the Door and lift gate, Wire Brush the Rust, hit it with Ospho and paint it.

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by navigator » Wed May 30, 2012 2:23 pm

I've never used any rust stopper but in my experience if you don't get to shiny metal the rust comes back.
If nothing is rusted all the way through you can hopefully clean it up real good and apply your choice of sealant/paint etc.
Good prep work is the key.
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by Mudwheelin » Wed May 30, 2012 7:21 pm

Best way is to bring it in and have it done right by a pro. If you have never done this kind of work before I wouldn't touch, unless you don't care what the end result looks like. There's plenty of vids on youtube to watch regarding those kind of rust issues your having.
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by Cable810 » Wed May 30, 2012 9:02 pm

I'm going to ask around for some Prices. One shop said a wile back that the body was in Great Shape which it is execpt in a few spots...
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by Mudwheelin » Wed May 30, 2012 9:50 pm

Good stuff man. I know I wouldn't do it to my own TB. I'd have it done by someone that knows what there doing and offers some kind of warranty on there work.
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by Nakashige » Wed May 30, 2012 11:16 pm

If you dont care what it looks like Hurculiner does amazing things to cover up stuff after it was preped right
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by Mudwheelin » Thu May 31, 2012 1:10 am

He would need to do the whole truck in it then. It would look stupid going half way up the tailgate and on the hood.
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by Nakashige » Thu May 31, 2012 1:15 am

He Could Do bottom of the glass and down
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by Badgerfan1181 » Thu May 31, 2012 1:22 am

How did your TB get that rusty in 10 years
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by NC_IslandRunner » Thu May 31, 2012 2:01 am

Badgerfan1181 wrote:How did your TB get that rusty in 10 years


He lives in Michigan, plastic rust if you leave it outside in Michigan..... :finger:
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by Badgerfan1181 » Thu May 31, 2012 2:28 am

I live in wisconsin same weather just normally hits me a few days sooner lol just wondering because mine is a year newer and doesn't have rust like that on it

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by Cable810 » Thu May 31, 2012 8:23 am

Good question. We kept it in the garage, washed it plenty during the winter.... I have no clue...

Nakashige, I have thought about the bed liner like Jansey, Gordinho80 did. I asked the body shop about it and they said it would be a waste. He never answer my original question. How much would something like that roughly cost me? 8 Bucks an hour on 30hrs a week isn't getting me anywhere it seems espesially with collage this year :wallbash: .......
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by Trail X » Thu May 31, 2012 8:40 am

GM must have changed their body prep procedure at some point in production. I have bare body metal still hanging out untreated from when I did my rear bumper (cut off the low-hanging mud flap backers) and they haven't rusted.
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by Badgerfan1181 » Thu May 31, 2012 3:11 pm

Yea must be something like that I know when mine was new it sat in the garage practically the whole year and sitting not being used only had about 5K on it the entire exhaust system was all rusted and needed to be replaced but GM covered it

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by DirtyBacon04 » Thu May 31, 2012 3:14 pm

My truck's scar from the Pinyon Sqeeze is still yet to rust.
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by bartonmd » Thu May 31, 2012 3:33 pm

I do know that my '07 used galvanized sheetmetal... Thought they all did, but don't know how far back.

Cable810 wrote:Good question. We kept it in the garage, washed it plenty during the winter.... I have no clue...


It also must be considered that rust is temperature-sensitive process. It doesn't happen at all below ~32F, and happens slowly below ~45F. When you park it in the garage (a heated garage, in particular), it will actually allow the rust to form and work faster. Washing it with warm or hot water in the winter is REALLY bad for forming rust. It's great if you get it all clean, but if you don't, it helps the rust form much, much faster.

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by Nakashige » Fri Jun 01, 2012 1:46 am

Nick, Mario, Donny, and I and I know others have done the Hurculiner our selves. looked at my truck today and the rust spots I sanded to bare metal and primed and bedlined still look rust free
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by dvanbramer88 » Fri Jun 01, 2012 4:52 pm

My 97 K1500 was galvanized. I have bare metal in a few spots with no rust. A guy down the street from me, with a '90 or so C1500, the entire one side of the bed is bare metal, no rust. FWIW
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by navigator » Sat Jun 02, 2012 10:26 pm

Is that why the GMs were bad for paint peeling at one time, due to using galvanized sheet metal?
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by 80Flareside » Thu Aug 09, 2012 10:34 pm

That definitely needs to be taken care of. Its minor now, but living in the salt belt here, seen minor rust turn to cancer at a surprisingly fast pace.

There is no real harm in trying to fix it yourself. Your not welding or cutting, or panel beating, so it will be nothing you can screw up badly enough that it would cost any extra at the body shop if you find yourself unable to do it.

First excise the chips and blisters to get to bare metal, wire (tooth) brush the areas, and hit with POR 15 Metal Etch. Paint all exposed metal with with POR 15 paint, feeling free to pour it right into the bottom of the door letting it seal (but be sure to keep the weep holes free).

Use a small amount of body filler to level if needed, lightly wet sand the area smooth, clean with denatured alcohol, and rattle can prime. Most real auto paint shops can mix a small amount of your paint color and put it in a rattle can for you. If not, get the color from Dupli-Color, and a reusable/refillable rattle can from Eastwood. Once painted you can blend it in with some polish.

Might not look perfect the first few time or two, but its a hell of a lot cheaper than an auto-body shop, keeps it from getting any worse, and is easily un-done if you really do manage to screw it up.
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