Maint. blues

[TangoBravo]

Oh yes your also going to need a swivel head and some patience, and maybe some bandaids, some booze, and also plan on replacing those bolts, when your able to get good torque on em sometimes they snap in half.

[Trail X]

I believe the ones to really be careful with are the ones in the head. I think Bill has some good knowledge of how to do that properly... if there is a way.

[TangoBravo]

I believe the ones to really be careful with are the ones in the head. I think Bill has some good knowledge of how to do that properly... if there is a way.

I have always broken more off the flange then head. However breaking anything in the head is costly so certainly be carefull. But it has been my experiance that the flange bolts are always subject to rapid heat and rapid cold, this makes most metals weak. The way it was explained to me is the head bolts cool with the head at a slower rate then the bolts on the flange which once the engine is shut off are istantly cooling. If you live where its -50 in the winter then they go from a few hundred degrees to -50 very rapidly.

[TangoBravo]

Not saying James isnt right Im just giving an opinion on my spacific experiance.

[Ominub856]

I had to do mine awhile back and I ended up breaking one bolt in the very back... didn't get it out and decided to run without it. So far no leaks and its been quite awhile. The one that broke didn't even feel tight it just twisted right off. Wish for the best is all I can say lol.

[steveroche]

Got everything off, broke off one bolt In the center section of the head...wondering If I should go with an easy-out and see if that works...otherwise I might just go without the bolt.

[v7guy]

you can try an ez out but my personal experience with them is pretty hit or miss. If you can maneuver any kind of torch down there to get some heat into the bolt it will help massively.

[steveroche]

All finished, ended up leaving that one bolt in the head, couldn't manage to get it out. Put some high temp gasket sealer around that area for extra help. Man it took me forever, working by myself and this is the first time I've changed an exhaust manifold so everything was new. It rides a million times better now though. This was definitely a ore existing problem that I just didn't really notice until a hole blew in the manifold. Maybe I'll see some enter mpg numbers from this...

[Flying Monkey]

Changed my Front and Rear diff oils today. Man what a PITA doing the rear so soon after shoulder surgery. Swear they used a gallon of red locktite on the cover bolts. But its done and boy did it need it. Oh and also finally lost stock spare lol.

Have Trans cooler and Filter kit to do next. I havent done 1 that already goes into radiator before, so will be new experience. My only concern is switching inlet line to the cooler then reconnecting to radiator. Cooler came with line stub with fitting on it, but need to find out what thread the radiator is so I can have everything ready to make it easier.

[Flying Monkey]

Well since I changed front diff fluid I now have a leak. Looks to be coming from the Axle seal on drivers side . Always something. I must have marred it up back when I changed CV and it was low enough not to cause leak. Is this the seal Im needing?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... ntial+seal


It calls for different seal (Left/Right) so figured Id make sure.

[navigator]

I got mine from the dealer for about the same price.
For me it was cheaper to get from the dealer than online with shipping.
The back side has some kind of metal flanges on it if I remember right.

You'll likely need a slide hammer to get it out.

[Flying Monkey]

Yeah oreillys is right up the road. Just got home and seen the leak so was looking it up on their site.

[v7guy]

Link no workie.
I got mine from the dealer too. I tried a slide hammer with very limited success. Ended up using a seal puller and vise grips.it was a lengthy ordeal. Driving it in was easy enough.

[navigator]

I took the slide hammer and 2 jaws(turned backward than usual), stuck them in the seal and turned the screw until the jaws expanded tight in the seal. I gave it a few yanks and it came right out.

[Flying Monkey]

Hmmm I click it, it takes me straight to seal. I have access to slide hammers and seal pullers, so thats not an issue.

[Opeth]

I had my check engine light start to flash on me a week back so I ordered new plugs since they are originals and changed them today. Drove around great for a good 4o miles today, then tonight the check engine light started to flash again when the vehicle was in park. Stayed off for the drive home, pulled into the driveway and parked it. Not 10 seconds later the CEL stayed on triggering something.

It doesn't feel like the truck is misfiring since the idle is smooth. I didn't drop the coil and was extremely gentle with them. I applied dielectric grease to the stock boots and wiggled them onto the new plugs to be sure they seated, them snugged down the bolt and reconnected the connectors. I don't know what the CEL is throwing since it's 1am and can't check till the morning when the parts stores open.

Also had the battery disconnected when I did this, is there something I missed? I'll report back what the code is, hoping it says x cylinder misfire instead of random cylinder.

[plaen]

Paul,

Transgo does make a replacement plate for the 07: http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/4L6 ... 35098d.htm Might want to look into it. No gaskets, but they are only like $4 if I recall.

3 hours, wow. Took me basically 7 if I recall. Did you make the changes to the 2-4 servo? I had heard to stay away from it. Now your testimony tells me that I may have done the right thing. Do you also notice a rather harsh 3-4 shift?

I pulled the cover to get the code off of it, but didn't make any changes, I was going to put in the Corvette 2-4 servo, but didn't end up putting it in, since I've heard it increases the shifts also. The 1-2 valve spring I used was the lightest one in the pack, and was almost the same as the stock one, I'm curious to see if the pinless accumulators I put in have something to do with it.

The rest of the shifts are quite nice, no harshness to any of them, it's noticeable that it shifted, but nothing that worries me, although the 3-4 when it locks up the convertor is a little firm, but the normal 3-4 is fine.

I did see that plate, but was apprehensive about ordering it, since the nalley gm site shows 2 for the 2007, one for units prior to 12/01/06, and one for units after that date, I'll call the dealer I picked mine up from and ask about the 2 different ones, the part number I have shows its for a 2004-2006, so pretty sure it's incorrect.

The biggest pain was dropping the pan, and keeping the bolt sizes organized, a piece of cardboard helped out a ton with it though. I started the install at 1:30, and with the 3-4 hours of shooting, finished at 7:30ish, then did a plug change, since I'm at 86k on the oems ones. Not sure if it was the plugs, or a combo of the 2, but my mpg is now at 21 according to the dic, up from 16 hwy, probably from the instant lockup of the tcc, although that was only a 40 mile drive home from the garage I work on it at.

Chris, I used dex 6 in mine, but that's what it came with, and I've heard from the os that people use it all the time in older ones, without issue.

Well, took a different route on getting the fluid out, disconnecting the trans cooler line and running a tube into quart bottles, pulled out 5 quarts, dropped the pan. Started unclipping the wiring, and found I missed one when I plugged them in the first time. So, note to anyone, if you leave the pressure control solenoid disconnected, the 1-2 shift is extremely hard. Changed out the plate while I was in there, confirmed with the dealer it was the correct one.

James, what i did was all the steps except changing out the 2-4 servo, went with the white spring for the 1-2 control valve, the lightest of the options, swapped out the forward, 1-2 and 3-4 accumulators for pinless ones, added in the transgo springs for the accumulators. Shifts are quick, but not hard, up till full throttle, then they firm up quite a bit. The tcc lockup is by far the best part of the kit. Didn't end up disassembling the valve body again since it was an unplugged wire, so I don't have too many pictures.

Tomorrow the 02 cooler goes in, along with Easter food.

[Opeth]

Ok code came back p0306( cylinder 6 misfire) .... Only thing I could think of was after I started installing the rest of the coil packs, I may have not of actually seated the boot well on this plug. So I left the parts store with some Lucas injector cleaner(CEL) still on and headed for the gas station. Filled up with 10 gallons of 93 and the cleaner. Stated the truck back up and the CEL was off.... Hmm... Interesting.

Got home, removed the coil and plug. Plug looks fine and shows sigh of proper function and gapped properly as well. Put the boot back on, push down and twisted it side to side like I had done to all the rest. Hopefully this pesky issue is gone.

[Trail X]

Well since I changed front diff fluid I now have a leak. Looks to be coming from the Axle seal on drivers side . Always something. I must have marred it up back when I changed CV and it was low enough not to cause leak. Is this the seal Im needing?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detai ... ntial+seal


It calls for different seal (Left/Right) so figured Id make sure.

Chris, I believe the seal you're looking for is considered a dealer only part. The way to be sure is to look at the back of the seal, and ensure that there are about 10 steel tangs sticking out of the back. These engage the bearing adjuster. If the seal doesn't have tangs, then it is not the right seal for the driver's side diff seal.

[Flying Monkey]

Hmmmm the picture does not show any tangs. Ill have to hit dealership up then. As bad as its leaking I need to get it done soon. after just couple hours ive already got a decent size spot under it today. Can see it coming from around cv at diff seal