Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

My TB is down for the count...

Trailblazer and Envoy related, but not off-road related...

by DirtyBacon04 » Wed Dec 21, 2011 2:34 am

So, I'm exhausted so I'll keep this quick for now.
Past 2 days, replaced driver/pass CV shafts because thats what I had diagnosed the rattling noise to be. Now there is NO question that the CV shafts needed replacement, HOWEVER I no longer thing thats what was causing my noises. I belive the gears in my front diff had shattered and my theory was confirmed on my way home when the metal housing for the pass cv joint on the diff broke off from the rest of the diff.
Image

I'll post better pics when i have dayilght and more energy... I'm tired and pissed now...
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by NC_IslandRunner » Wed Dec 21, 2011 2:42 am

This is just punishment for your username change, you had to know it was gonna happen! :facepalm:
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by fishsticks » Wed Dec 21, 2011 2:46 am

That's the splined disco that broke...not the diff.

You got off easy. The diff would have been bad.
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by NC_IslandRunner » Wed Dec 21, 2011 2:59 am

fishsticks wrote:That's the splined disco that broke...not the diff.

You got off easy. The diff would have been bad.


First thing I thought of was your splined disco thread, So he may not be out.

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by DirtyBacon04 » Wed Dec 21, 2011 3:05 am

fishsticks wrote:That's the splined disco that broke...not the diff.

You got off easy. The diff would have been bad.


I guess i was so frustrated i didnt even notice that. You made my night so much better. So i can remove the passenger CV and roll in 2wd until i can fix it, right?
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by That1Guy » Wed Dec 21, 2011 4:26 am

I hope you get whatever the problem is fixed ASAP. I dont have much to offer in the way of help but if you need any let me know.
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by Trail X » Wed Dec 21, 2011 10:55 am

DirtyBacon04 wrote:
fishsticks wrote:That's the splined disco that broke...not the diff.

You got off easy. The diff would have been bad.


I guess i was so frustrated i didnt even notice that. You made my night so much better. So i can remove the passenger CV and roll in 2wd until i can fix it, right?


Yes, essentially. Remove the CV shaft and the broken housing, then remove the exterior half of the disconnect. Then, remove all internal parts of the disconnect that you can (you don't want to lose them on the road). Then replace the exterior half of the disconnect, sans internal parts. Then maybe cover the hole as best you can with some gaffers tape or something.

I wouldn't drive for long like this, because the intermediate shaft will be wearing on the interior seal, and otherwise unsupported... but it should be ok for a little while, until you can get a new disconnect (I'd go AWD!).
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by The Roadie » Wed Dec 21, 2011 11:55 am

Yeah, don't remove the intermediate shaft. You can't get a Gatorade lid into where the diff oil would drool out of that hole.

Sorry I don't keep a spare of the disconnect in stock, or else you could buy it for ...... say $995.

Seriously, Amazon. ATP 111001 $400 for everything, or GM sources for the individual parts. Another thing that could have been stressed by using throttle as a substitute for a G80. Did you use the pickle fork on the passenger side, too? Or the rebar on the tripot housing the way I recommend? Might be a side effect of the off-angle force put on the housing by the wedge-shaped pickle fork. :facepalm:
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by Trail X » Wed Dec 21, 2011 12:05 pm

Also - how in the heck did you destroy two CV shafts? They really are pretty tough unless you get water in the boots.
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by The Roadie » Wed Dec 21, 2011 1:06 pm

JamesDowning wrote:Also - how in the heck did you destroy two CV shafts?
4WD with no G80 trying for 3 hours to climb back THROUGH the Pinyon Squeeze? :facepalm:
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by DirtyBacon04 » Wed Dec 21, 2011 3:19 pm

JamesDowning wrote:Also - how in the heck did you destroy two CV shafts? They really are pretty tough unless you get water in the boots.


I got water in the boots...
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by DirtyBacon04 » Wed Dec 21, 2011 3:22 pm

Also, whats the differene/benefit of a AWD disco?
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by Trail X » Wed Dec 21, 2011 3:29 pm

AWD disco is always connected. It replaces the failure-prone fork and 'syncro' with a sleeve that greatly improves durability of the assembly.
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by Jimbo121 » Wed Dec 21, 2011 6:04 pm

yes you can I've been rollin into will drive about 6 months now . my disconnect did the same thing , how do you have the front enlisted ? best bet is the shop around for the junk yards . heb take the entire unit as a whole .
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by DirtyBacon04 » Wed Dec 21, 2011 8:39 pm

Jimbo121 wrote:yes you can I've been rollin into will drive about 6 months now . my disconnect did the same thing , how do you have the front enlisted ? best bet is the shop around for the junk yards . heb take the entire unit as a whole .



............. What? :scratch:
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by gotspeed1 » Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:19 pm

The Roadie wrote:Seriously, Amazon. ATP 111001 $400 for everything,


This is where I got mine. From what I had researched, I didn't see any solid reviews at the time but went with it. So far, so good. No Problems at all and I believe it is actually cheaper than rebuilding the stock one.
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by DirtyBacon04 » Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:58 pm

This would be a good opprotunity to replace the actuator, so thats another 45-50 bucks. Going to be until the first of the month before i'll be able to order parts... :( Too lazy to do the 2wd mod tonight... I hate having to bum rides.
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by Trail X » Wed Dec 21, 2011 10:07 pm

If you're going to swap to an AWD sleeve, no need to touch the actuator, because it will become functionally useless. It just has to stay on the vehicle to prevent error codes.
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by DirtyBacon04 » Wed Dec 21, 2011 10:27 pm

I cant seem to find the right P/N for the AWD sleeve. Assistance?
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by DirtyBacon04 » Wed Dec 21, 2011 10:49 pm



I found this video which seems pretty helpful. If i'm correct, he has the AWD sleeve installed in his, right?
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