Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Maint. blues

Trailblazer and Envoy related, but not off-road related...

by HARDTRAILZ » Mon Oct 10, 2011 6:38 pm

To do for ttecoreV... water pump, fan clutch, trans service, trans cooler, new gatorback belt and oil change. Fun fun. But I may need a new front crank seal, any one done that?
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by Flying Monkey » Mon Oct 10, 2011 6:53 pm

I think 1 of my CV joints is going now. On hard take off can feel vibration in pedal and also when turning U can feel it. Almost like rubbing but cant be rubbing anymore. Only thing I can think of is that CV I fixed when boot slid off and I put it back on with hose clamp. Must have lost too much grease or something. Cant think of anything else would be causing it and would make sense since I lost an amount of grease.
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by steveroche » Mon Oct 10, 2011 8:17 pm

Doing drivers side upper ball joint this week. Getting a nasty creak every once and a while when i turn the wheel. I also have a weird rattle coming from the front end somewhere as well. Not sure what it is yet. It happens when i accelerate...gonna look under when I get the chance but at this point i'm leaning towards something to do with the exhaust system. Perhaps a loose hangar or bad cat...
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by NC_IslandRunner » Mon Oct 10, 2011 8:44 pm

HARDTRAILZ wrote:To do for ttecoreV... water pump, fan clutch, trans service, trans cooler, new gatorback belt and oil change. Fun fun. But I may need a new front crank seal, any one done that?


Real fun, I need to change both upper ball joints and check the fluids, Tranny and oil are good but may need to do t-case and diffs.

A guy posted a link with the procedure to do the crank seal on a envoy on Justanswer.com but I couldn't get it to load so you can check there if no one here has done it. Also mentioned special tools needed. MCVGreg is the user name of the guy that answered the question and he is still active on the site(he posted this how to 3yrs ago)
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by Flying Monkey » Tue Oct 11, 2011 11:47 am

Well a light clunking started in the front end while turning sometimes, strong take off and climbing steep grade. So I am thinking CV joint. I cant duplicate the sound sitting still. Tried grabbing cv and shaking it but nothing. Only thing I can think of is when weight pushed to side or back the knuckle is slipping in the socket going into front diff. Sound right to you guys? If so time to start looking for new cv joint :slap:
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by tzdevill » Tue Oct 11, 2011 12:14 pm

When I got the truck it has a fresh oil change sticker in the windsheild. But no idea about the trans or rear end. :wallbash: Not looking forward to it but need to find time in the next few weeks woo hoo. Might have to test out my buddies lift to see if it will pick up the truck. :mechanic:
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by NC_IslandRunner » Fri Oct 14, 2011 12:38 pm

Just changed the thermo-crap out, had codes for the PCM and the gas pedal position hope disco of battery will reset computer and they won't come back(but you can hope in one hand and shit in the other and see which one fills up first!) :wallbash: :wallbash:
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by steveroche » Fri Oct 21, 2011 6:36 pm

So i was doing front brake pads this morning and finished the drivers side, went over to the pass. side and started to disassemble the caliper and what not. Turns out the floating nut on the caliper bracket was frozen and stuck out all the way so i couldn't get the bracket back on. when i tried to turn it slightly, which it should be able to do...the head snapped off. Turns out no one sells the bracket alone AND the main bracket bolt's head stripped when i tried taking it off. SO i found the one store in the area with a replacement. Had to buy a new caliper to get the bracket but it was worth it considering i am going camping tomorrow and need the truck for hauling everything for the group. Cost was 130 dollars for the caliper assembly and a new bolt. Ended up hammering on a one size smaller socket to get the main bolt out and changed out the old bracket for the new in 2 minutes. When i get some more time ill put on the new caliper and bleed the system so i can bring back the old caliper and get the core charge back but i didn't have time tonight. Sucks though...you never expect that the smallest thing could make a 1 hour front brake pad job turn into a full day of scrounging for parts and replacing broken pieces...but that's fixing cars for ya i guess..
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by navigator » Fri Oct 21, 2011 8:21 pm

I know what you mean, I don't like to do any kind of maint right before a big trip. A couple weeks before, yes but right before is always a risk. Good luck on your trip.
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by v7guy » Thu Nov 10, 2011 2:33 am

so I lifted the trailblazer, changed the diff oil, the transfer case oil, did the plugs and fuel filter, air filter, cleaned the throttle body, discovered the drivers side front axle bearing needs replaced, then I get a secondary air injection code and just poured a ton of water out of the hoses at the air pump 10 minutes ago (who decided putting an air pump under the floor of a vehicle was a good idea)... need to get the misses to start the vehicle so I can check the relay. At 85k miles I'm sure the balljoints are on the verge of needing replaced...need to rebuild the disconnect still.
I realize a vehicle needs maintenance and I'm glad I've found these problems before they became catastrophic, but good god.
At least I get to look forward to having to having a tooth pulled tomorrow lol
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by bdp1978 » Thu Nov 17, 2011 1:31 pm

So, just fixed my fan clutch...again. Drive the TB 2 days and 410 code pops up as well as left front wheel bearing beginning to make noise. Just rolled 100k.

Really not looking forward to dealing with this stupid Air Injection system. The TB is getting dangerously close to finding itself alone on a used car lot. I feel like I average about $400/month in parts for this damn thing.
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by navigator » Thu Nov 17, 2011 2:35 pm

bdp1978 wrote:I feel like I average about $400/month in parts for this damn thing.


that is about what my payment is..... I only owe a few more months though and plan to go ahead and pay mine off this month and get it over with.
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by The Roadie » Thu Nov 17, 2011 4:48 pm

bdp1978 wrote:...I average about $400/month in parts for this damn thing.
Repair parts, that may be higher than average, but for repair+mods that's on the low side. It can perhaps be done cheaply, but without a lot of safety margin.
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by navigator » Fri Nov 18, 2011 10:02 am

Brad, I think most vehicles are like that when they hit around 100k. You have several things that need replacing for a few months and then you are good for the most part for a year or two.
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by bdp1978 » Fri Nov 18, 2011 12:50 pm

navigator wrote:Brad, I think most vehicles are like that when they hit around 100k. You have several things that need replacing for a few months and then you are good for the most part for a year or two.



Agreed, although this has been going on since about 70,000 miles. I just looked at my list last night and was surprised at how much I had forgotten that I had already replaced.

Seems to be the usual for GM vehicles, at least in my experience. I had a Jimmy that went to hell at 75k and a Tahoe that was about the same. The S10 Jimmy was a pile and I sold it shorly after, but that damn Tahoe was still running awesome when I sold it at 225k. I actually still regret getting rid of it!
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by Trail X » Fri Nov 18, 2011 3:37 pm

Tahoes are GM too...
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by navigator » Fri Nov 18, 2011 4:30 pm

my understanding is the Tahoes, pickups and suburbans all have solid drive trains that routinely get close to 300k.
I think the late 90's models were extremely stout.

Hopefully this spring I'll be a little ahead and I would love to get an extended cab Z71 97-99 as a 3rd vehicle.

I have a neighbor with an old 1500 silverado that has very little paint left on it but has about 290k he said it still runs really good.
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by bdp1978 » Fri Nov 18, 2011 4:42 pm

JamesDowning wrote:Tahoes are GM too...



Really, that thing was a GM? :awesome:

I was saying that it went to hell at about 75k, but after fixing some issues it was still running solid when I sold it at 225k. Even after the fixes the s10 jimmy was still a pile of sh*t.
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by Trail X » Fri Nov 18, 2011 9:34 pm

Ah, my apologies, I misunderstood your post.
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by NC_IslandRunner » Fri Nov 18, 2011 10:11 pm

bdp1978 wrote:So, just fixed my fan clutch...again. Drive the TB 2 days and 410 code pops up as well as left front wheel bearing beginning to make noise. Just rolled 100k.

Really not looking forward to dealing with this stupid Air Injection system. The TB is getting dangerously close to finding itself alone on a used car lot. I feel like I average about $400/month in parts for this damn thing.


I spent alot between 80k and 120k miles but nothing overly unexpected.
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