Even if I re-gear I'm not sure how 34s are going to do towing the jeep anyways... I might just have to go smaller

fishsticks wrote:Like everything on my truck, my rear hitch/body lift brackets have been abused. They haven't moved after lots of static and dynamic extractions, and a good dose of towing....usually in the form of a 6x12 enclosed trailer loaded with equipment.
You won't be a race truck... but I tow fine on 35's as long as I keep an eye on trans temps. My rear tires rub pretty good when I do tow though... probably time to take the extra set of control arms I have and make longer ones.
Rob93 wrote:fishsticks wrote:Like everything on my truck, my rear hitch/body lift brackets have been abused. They haven't moved after lots of static and dynamic extractions, and a good dose of towing....usually in the form of a 6x12 enclosed trailer loaded with equipment.
You won't be a race truck... but I tow fine on 35's as long as I keep an eye on trans temps. My rear tires rub pretty good when I do tow though... probably time to take the extra set of control arms I have and make longer ones.
What weight are you towing around? And I bet the 4.56s help a lot. Also note I'm in south florida so all of my towing will be on FLAT ground
bartonmd wrote:If you're going to tow something heavy like a vehicle on a trailer, I'd ditch the blind bolts in favor of fishing regular grade 8 bolts through...
Mike
JamesDowning wrote:Are you talking about replacing the nuts too? Without weld nuts it'd be impossible.
Either way, you're probably not going to see any benefit. The clamping load on the bar is what holds it in place, not the shear strength of the bolts. The stock bolts are probably 10.9 anyways.
JamesDowning wrote:Ah, I've never seen a bolt like that before. Pretty slick. But it would seem weld nuts would be a lot cheaper.
Did Kyle weld on nuts? or was he somehow able to fish a wrench into the frame?