Maint. blues

[tbangert]

Looking forward to rebuilding the splined disconnect this weekend. Noticed the cv axle had some play at the disconnect, would explain the tempermental nature of my 4wd lately. Been reading that write up over and over again on how to do it, any tips or tricks for getting it off the oil pan?

[Trail X]

Penetrating oil early.

When you're actually prying it off, work it evenly from both sides of the center.

Good luck!

[fishsticks]

If it's stuck, I would personally try rotating it in the hole before prying it out. Applying force in a circular direction will flex the aluminum less and help break it loose.

[Trail X]

Good suggestion Donny. Now that I remember back - I recall hitting it with a hammer a few times in a circular direction hoping to do just what you said. Maybe it helped things loosen a bit.

Just make sure you pry close to the center area, the further out you pry, the more bending stresses you're inducing in the aluminum.

[irishboy02]

So, after all my down time and GM telling me that they couldn't do anything - I broke down and took my truck to my local parts shop who has been my go-to guys since 04. Theyv always done mechanical repairs and motor swaps and stuff like that, never really been known to mess with electrical. But i figured it couldn't get any worse. Had it towed in 415 on mon, they close at 5. They called me 11am on wed saying it was done.

Two loose grounds, one being the ground for the PCM. When i tried to start, instead of grounding the Starter relay, completing the circuit and allowing the truck to start, it was sending 12v. Since it wasn't grounding the alarm thought the truck was trying to be stolen (prestige alarm with starter, immobilizer, shock sensor and dual motion sensor with tilt sensor - still the same alarm from when i was lowered with my system and 20s). This caused the Immobilizer to kick in thinking the truck was being stolen. Since it was sending a full 12v instead of a weak ground. after trying so many times the immobilizer shorted out. Ripped out the alarm, rewired the two loose grounds and ran a new chassis ground off the PCM and truck starts and runs no problem.

GM claims they checked the alarm and wiring. They also installed my fan clutch, broke my fan shroud and hot glued it back together and didn't put the bolts back in on the wiring clip to the fan shroud so i need to find something to fit so that it doesn't wiggle loose and rip the wires, again.

[Diacom]

Something like the dealer replacing the parts they damaged at their cost? Totally inexcusable. Bypass the usual minions and head straight for the Service Manager.

[Zero]

I agree, make the dealer pay to replace everything they broke. Then call the GM offices and complain about the dealership. You can even go as far as report them to the better business bureau.

[irishboy02]

The manager claimed they cant prove that it was them that broke it, because there are so many other modified things on the truck that arent 'clean'. However at this point my truck wasnt even running, was towed in and out, and parked in their lot for 3 weeks when they were 'looking at it'. I fought it, hard. They even called the cops cause i was getting so worked up.

[fishsticks]

Hmmmm....

[bgwolfpack]

That would be tough to get thru DEQ.

Time for an exhaust upgrade?

[fishsticks]

That would be tough to get thru DEQ.

Time for an exhaust upgrade?

It passed testing a month ago. No secondary O2 CEL either.

I was cutting off the turbo muffler because the sound had changed for the worse awhile back. I assumed I blew the packing out. When I hit it with the sawzall it sounded like there were a dozen marbles in the bottom.


Still have my old cat which I thought was plugged a year back (it wasn't) and replaced with this one. It went back on along with a welded 2 chamber muffler. Problem solved.

[bgwolfpack]

That would be tough to get thru DEQ.

Time for an exhaust upgrade?

It passed testing a month ago. No secondary O2 CEL either.

Bull shit testing! All they want is money.

What two chamber muffler did you use?

[fishsticks]

In house brand from Baxter's.... like $35. We put a couple on my buddies K5 Blazer (the red one on 37's in the pics/vids I post) and they are pretty well made. Thrush makes some too for about $2 more, but the welds didn't look as good and they are heavier for some reason.

[navigator]

talking about maint blues, I replaced my fluids in my xfercase and both diffs a while back.
Instead of taking the rear diff cover off, I was going to pump the fluid out and add the new.
I had one of those old pumps that screw on to the top of the bottle of gear oil to pump in.
I figured I could extend the tube and use it like one of the other pumps.

It worked but was a major pain, it didn't seem to work real well unless it was upright but didn't really start acting up until I was bout 1/2 way done.
I recently bought one of the other types that has the tubes in both ends, hopefully I won't have the problem again.

I also saw one from HF that you hook a drill to. I thought about getting one of those, looks like water hose type fittings on each end so it might be a small task to get the adapters down to a suitable size hose but it looks like it would work.

[janesy86]

Why not just take the cover off and inspect the internals? It drains in a minute and then you can be sure you got it all out and check out the gears and G80 if you got one...

[navigator]

I would usually pull the diff cover off but I was changing it early, mostly highway miles, wanted to get it out of the way, didn't have a gasket and didn't want to worry about it leaking etc, the wife was gone with my other transportation, at home alone with the kids...... etc, etc....

[janesy86]

The gasket is reusable...

[navigator]

I thought so, I should have pulled it off but under the circumstances didn't want to push my luck.

[chevycrew]

Swapping radiator, t-stat, and hoses, not exactly an easy motor to work on...

[irishboy02]

Had a shot driverside seal on my front diff and was leaking fluid. Truck not running i wasnt really too concerned. Now that the truck is running again i went and replaced the fluid. I noticed a good amount of small metal shavings, no huge chunks but burnt fluid with a shimmer to it. Drained the fluid replaced the seal and filled it back up. Drove home no problem. Went to work, then came home and found a fluid spot on the street where i parked. Its still leaking. Capacity is .8, i put a full qt, could this just be overflow? This is over a week now and its still leaking.

Any ideas? Its a seal direct from a dealership

It never fricken ends