Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Maint. blues

Trailblazer and Envoy related, but not off-road related...

by Philberto » Tue Mar 09, 2010 3:15 pm

JamesDowning wrote:
Didn't your bottle have a nipple like RP?

Image


Yeah, it did, but all I had was aquarium air-line tubing (1/8") which didn't work too well with the heavy weight gear oil.

bgwolfpack wrote:There are stores in this part of our country that sell auto stuff. There called Auto parts Stores. They sell small little pumps that attach to the gear oil bottle with a length of hose connected for insertion into the hole. That way you can just pump it in form the bottom or the top.


Doh! *facepalm* I didn't bother to look for those when I went to Kragen (now O'Reilly). I knew there had to be an easier way to do the stuff... Oh well, it's done now anyways. Definitely something to buy before doing the rear diff though.
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by foosh » Tue Mar 09, 2010 4:33 pm

bgwolfpack wrote:Sounds like the rubber grommet is seized in place. You may need to use a pair of pliers. One on the dip stick and one (securely) on the pipe. Twist.
img_5567 (2).jpg

Edit: Add pic


Its bad like both my friend and i gave it all we had, and nothing happened, but twisting is the next move.
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by Philberto » Tue Mar 09, 2010 4:44 pm

I recommend a pair of gloves and a big set of vise-grips... make sure you flip that red tab first, then grab it by the base if you can...
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by bgwolfpack » Tue Mar 09, 2010 7:08 pm

Foosh, If Roadie hadn't have got himself a job...nough said



Posted for theroadie
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by HARDTRAILZ » Tue Mar 09, 2010 10:52 pm

Any tips for removing an o2 sensor that has been rounded off. Cant get a good grip on it period. Was thinking of tack welding a wrench to it or something, but hoping there is a better way.

It actually idles lower and runs a bit better with the wires cut, so it must have been shot.
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by bgwolfpack » Tue Mar 09, 2010 11:16 pm

HARDTRAILZ wrote:Any tips for removing an o2 sensor that has been rounded off. Cant get a good grip on it period. Was thinking of tack welding a wrench to it or something, but hoping there is a better way.

It actually idles lower and runs a bit better with the wires cut, so it must have been shot.

You may be able to grind two sides down to fit a smaller wrench. I just changed mine and there seems to be ample metal. Which one is it?
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by HARDTRAILZ » Tue Mar 09, 2010 11:22 pm

upstream so not much room to work with. but good idea, keep em coming please....
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by Philberto » Wed Mar 10, 2010 12:03 am

Vise-grips should be able to grip it, then use a pry-bar to turn them if space is tight. Another helpful technique is to use a heat gun or torch to heat up the threads of the O2 sensor before trying to remove it. That's what I had to do on my last car, since whoever changed the sensor didn't use anti-seize when installing it.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Wed Mar 10, 2010 9:10 am

Will make a go with vice grips first. We had a torch on it for a good ten minutes since the edges were sketchy at first, but it didnt help.
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by OregTrailBlazin » Wed Mar 10, 2010 2:56 pm

I Like the idea of taching the wrench on it, done it a couple times, and looking at the amount of room you hvae there, it may be the best bet!
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by OregTrailBlazin » Tue Mar 16, 2010 8:08 pm

HARDTRAILZ wrote:Will make a go with vice grips first. We had a torch on it for a good ten minutes since the edges were sketchy at first, but it didnt help.


\
Any luck?? Just picked up one for my rig!! See how it goes tonight!!
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by HARDTRAILZ » Tue Mar 16, 2010 8:24 pm

OregTrailBlazin wrote:
HARDTRAILZ wrote:Will make a go with vice grips first. We had a torch on it for a good ten minutes since the edges were sketchy at first, but it didnt help.


\
Any luck?? Just picked up one for my rig!! See how it goes tonight!!


I have been busy and it runs better with the wires cut so I keep putting it off. I scrubbed tar off and painted rails after winter sand blasting the paint off, but tomorrow should be great weather and I am making myself try it...Good luck.
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by foosh » Fri Mar 19, 2010 9:08 pm

Ok well my dipstick is loose, but it still won't pull out, like its locked into the trans...???
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by Gordinho80 » Fri Mar 19, 2010 9:10 pm

Damn Tom... that sucks. I just checked mine before. It came right out without issue.

I am, however, noticing some coolant leaking from my truck. Looks like its coming from the radiator cap, think its a bad seal on the cap...
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by bgwolfpack » Fri Mar 19, 2010 10:21 pm

foosh wrote:Ok well my dipstick is loose, but it still won't pull out, like its locked into the trans...???
Have you tried tapping/hammering lightly on the stick towards the trans its self. There are a few light parts that it could catch on down inside if the stick is bent or warped. Is it the correct dip stick for the truck? Does it look identical to other pics? :scratch:
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by foosh » Sun Mar 21, 2010 10:49 pm

I'd hope its the right stick, looks like Brendan's too...
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by irishboy02 » Sun Mar 21, 2010 11:29 pm

Dont go around talking about my stick tom...

Thats okay, according to my dipstick, i had the perfect amount of oil, just a little dirty so i went to change it. Opened up the oil pan, took off the filter and let it sit for about 40min. Come to find out, a little over half a gallon of oil came out. Now how is this possible. Our trucks take 7qt with the change of filter. 4qt=1g. so that would mean i had ~3qt of oil in my motor? WTF?

No leaks, no pinging, no spills. :scratch:
I run AMSoil full synthetic 5w30.
Recommended change every25k miles. I only had 15xxx since the last change and changed the filter 5k ago (and topped it off then)

Iv dealt with AMSoil for many years and nvr run into this issue. None of my family mechanics can figure it out either. Just another weird issue with my truck :coffee:
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by foosh » Sun Mar 21, 2010 11:45 pm

GM recommends 25k between changes? I change every 5 at most.
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by irishboy02 » Mon Mar 22, 2010 2:24 am

Its not GM, its the difference with AMSOIL. AMSoil is the only true FULL synthetic oil. Its gauraunteed up to 25k miles before a change, obvi i wouldnt let it go THAT long. I know what im talking about when it comes to this stuff as well as alot of engine buiders in my area and they all agree, they dont know how THAT much oil would burn up, esp when the dipstick read that it was fine. It just doesnt makes sense, esp the fact that my motor was runnin on such little oil how there was no knocking or the motor didnt seize. This is my 3rd amsoil change on my truck, but the first time iv expierenced this. However, this is the first change since my truck has been lifted. Could offroading have something to do with it? Aswell as the deep water crossings that plague me with every trip?
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by Trail X » Mon Mar 22, 2010 12:38 pm

Do you have something clogging the drain hole? Gunk could have become dislodged... which got stuck in the drain before the entire sump drained.
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