Best roll cage, tube frame/chassis for weight loss?

[ARC-]

Apparently, the S10 race roll cage can be modified to fit in the Trailblazer and so my 97x. This TB weighs less than 2700 pounds! I figure with the AWD or same 4WD and lift kit plus tires, we can keep it around 3000 lbs? Any realistic ideas of whats involved and remembering they hacked it into a 2 door, which I am happy to replicate!
No road racing it and no 4x4ing, think This is a prerunner height that handles with the LH6 and AWD, the 1000 pounds or more of weight loss would be great for mileage performance. Please don't start a rant about why I shouldn't do this. I live in Baja, the Baja 1000 is in November. I go yearly, I get my welding done with guys who build these for other folks for a living. But, you all know our chassis and have modified these frames a lil bit already.
Is chopping up the existing frame, removing everything except what is bolted to the body and welding to what is left the roll cage an option or just do it the right way the only way?

http://www.highperformancetrucks.com/trucks/truck_view.php?id=207

[v7guy]

How much have you had to drink tonight?

I can't see a trailblazer weighing less than 3000 lbs.

You do realize this is a body on frame vehicle, as in the body and frame are two separate components, it's not a unibody like most SUVs these days.

Why did you include a pic of a vette?



Am I the only one lost here?

[Wahugg]

[Moots1288]

This is real deal!

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

[bartonmd]

Oh boy.. The TB, stock, weighs in at like 4600lbs. You will not be less than that after you rip out the interior and replace it with a cage, plus wheels/tires/bigger axles, etc..

Mike

[ARC-]

Im talking about removing the frame an replacing it.

The caged sub frame for the motor and Race chassis. I know the obvious. I do say for nay sayers to fly the the proverbial kite. For you "do what"erzz.
There are chassis you can buy make, which, yeess is also the frame...
Then welded to the roll cage within the body. So the body sits on,the lightest frame an not the OEM stump pulling frame.

No bigger axles, wheels or nuffin

Going from 18" wheels 17". I have the 8.6 rear differential which will hold up.

[bartonmd]

Im talking about removing the frame an replacing it.

The caged sub frame for the motor and Race chassis. I know the obvious. I do say for nay sayers to fly the the proverbial kite. For you "do what"erzz.
There are chassis you can buy make, which, yeess is also the frame...
Then welded to the roll cage within the body. So the body sits on,the lightest frame an not the OEM stump pulling frame

I say the only way you're going to hit that weight is if you just use the outer body panels (the outer skin and none of the structure) around a full tube chassis, and keep it 2WD. Didn't sound like that from your first post, but I have to read everything you write about 3 times to figure out what you're trying to say, so if there was a miscommunication, it would be understandable.

Mike

[ARC-]

I'm not sure exactly way in saying
But I like yer idea about the body panels welded to the Frame, well that seems extreme LoL

[bartonmd]

I'm not sure exactly way in saying
But I like yer idea about the body panels welded to the Frame, well that seems extreme LoL

That's how about any race car, other than a regular rally car, is made. Drag cars, baja trucks, etc... Basically, if you're talking about ditching 2000lbs, you're talking about sheetmetal bolted to a tube chassis/cage.

Mike

[v7guy]

I think your basically talking about making a race vehicle you drive on the road. Tube frame with Trailblazer sheet metal hanging on it? Which is what Barton is referencing.

Basically you have a ton of cutting and welding to do, most guys build a frame/cage structure to fit the vehicle they're putting it into. There's so many variables that it makes the most sense to bend up the tube yourself.

Get to cuttin and post lots of pics!

[Trail X]

Id also work on getting your front axle forward a good bit, otherwise I think you'll be way nose heavy. The rear will be bouncing all over the place.

With the amount of work you're talking about, why not just start from scratch and build a dedicated buggy with the tb engine and rear axle. That's basically what you're talking about. By adding the panels, you're just making unnecessary work for yourself that will really only hold you back.

Anyways, my interest is piqued. Please keep us in the loop. I want to see this thing materialize! As Jason said, start cutting!

[SmokeyMcBlazer]

cut the truck!

Cut The Truck!!

CUT THE TRUCK!!!

[ARC-]

You're funneee. Cut the truck, ahhaaa.
I will not be cutting for a while.

[bartonmd]

Yeah, you'd be much better off keeping or selling your TB, and just getting replacement body panels to bolt to a tube frame race chassis.

Mike

[Trail X]

You're funneee. Cut the truck, ahhaaa.
I will not be cutting for a while.

Why not, you seemed so into it a day ago...

[ARC-]

It called information gathering. Anywho, your right the axle further forward,I we thinking the motor back a foot or so?
Thanks

[v7guy]

By the time you've built a tube chassis you can put the motor wherever you want. Saying a foot back really means nothing because nothing is going to be stock.

You'll find that pretty quickly you're just going be putting things where they fit and where they fit is going to be dependent on the parts you're using and where you've laid the tube. Everything kinda affects everything.

You're basically building an entire truck from scratch, so there not much info to gather, build a chassis that'll fit the body, cut out the floor, weld the body to the chassis (and it'll probably still be heavier than you want) and get to work on the suspension. Nobody that I'm aware of has done this with one of our vehicles so it's likely no one here can give you much advice, you gotta plan as best you can and get the parts you think will work and start cutting and welding and making it all fit together.

Get some tube and start bending and welding man, it'll be nice to see something new!

[bartonmd]

It has been done, before... By GM Racing...

https://www.facebook.com/chadragland/me ... c8778989e4

http://www.thefreelibrary.com/Vortec-Po ... a062542914

It's a mid-engine with a custom cast 5.0l I6 race block making 650hp at 7500rpm, and I'm sure it's still over 3000lbs, even with a custom carbon fiber body. I can't find a weight on this one in particular, but the class of SCORE unlimited trophy trucks that this competed in usually weigh around 6000lbs, race-ready. I know that the lightest every trophy truck was fielded by BMW, and it weighs in at 4500lbs, and is substantially smaller than the rest of them, the TB included. The lightest one before that was about 5380lbs, from what I gather.

However, some light reading for you on your weight spec: http://www.fourwheeler.com/features/tro ... hnology-2/

"They probably don’t realize that weight does have its place in Trophy-Truck racing. Nothing can bomb through the rough like a Trophy-Truck and part of that is actually due to its extra mass. Lighter vehicles tend to deflect or skip (somewhat) over the rough while heavier TTs simply absorb it. The experience is similar to doing a trail on an uber-lightweight mountain bike and then doing that same trail on a dirt bike. Compared to the moto, the mountain bike will always feel more “active,” deflecting off bumps where the moto will blow right through them. Because of this, many builders were not exactly looking to shed some pounds."

Based on your questions and answers, I think you've got a hell of a lot of learning to do about desert racing, before you even look at building anything.

Mike

[The Roadie]

Exactly what parts of a donor GMT360 would be used in this? The engine? Surely not the front axle, and the rear is about as weak. The transfer case is a joke for racing, but you said 2WD....

Ever get up to North County for work or school?

[DirtyBacon04]

Exactly what parts of a donor GMT360 would be used in this?

Looks like the GM Racing one utilized the headlights, too!