Go big or go home.

[exb5182]

o this is my first post let me first say I just joined but have been reading this forum for months and thank everyone fo their vast knowledge on tb. I am not new to the lifted world I have always had a lifted truck and work on diesels as my profession but I am definitely new to the trailblazer world. So I sold my diesel (due to going back to school) and have a 06 trailblazer I inherited. All the guys at my work dont understand why I dont just get something else to lift bc well with the ft diff and all but this tb was my dads so it has a bit of sentimental value. Anyway heres what I am thinking- I am dead set on 35s
Ft
Radflos
Smaxx sway bar links (are there any that are quick dc)
Flip uc arms
Rear
Z71 with 2.5 blocks (are there spings I wont need blocks)
Bds shocks (which should I use with spring set up)
Massive speeds upper and lower control arms
Massive speed panhard bar
Body and other
3" body lift markmc
1.5" wheel spacer/adapters
4.10 gears ft and rear
Procomps 17s with somewhere around 0 back spacing

Am I missing anything or any comments on anything?

[fishsticks]

You can wheel 35s on 89/Z71 springs and 3" of body lift. I have done it. Street driving 35s is no sweat on low lift.

SMaxx swaybar links are garbage and not really needed. If you want quick disco's search for bartonmd's thread where he shows how to build some.

If you feel you must go tall, Skyjacker C25R rear springs will net you 4" of lift with no block.

Run 10" travel Bilstein 5100 rear shocks. Search here for the part numbers.

If you are going to run a 0" backspace wheel you probably won't need spacers, however your tires will also be in your fenders whenever you turn. If you want to go to a 6x5.5 bolt pattern run 1.5" spacers and a 25mm offset wheel.

[darring70]

Welcome to the site

[mikekey]

Anyway heres what I am thinking- I am dead set on 35s

Radflos
Smaxx sway bar links (are there any that are quick dc)
Flip uc arms
Rear
Z71 with 2.5 blocks (are there spings I wont need blocks)
Bds shocks (which should I use with spring set up)
Massive speeds upper and lower control arms
Massive speed panhard bar
Body and other
3" body lift markmc
1.5" wheel spacer/adapters
4.10 gears ft and rear
Procomps 17s with somewhere around 0 back spacing

Am I missing anything or any comments on anything?

to the site Edward. Please fill out your location so folks know where you are from.

It sounds like you've taken the time to read some of the build threads which is always a good start.

To answer your direct questions, you can make your own quick disconnects, there is a how-to on this forum.

You can purchase Skyjacker Softride Coil Springs - C25R if you do not want a rear spacer. They offer a softer ride and effectively gives our vehicles approximately 4" of lift over stock in the rear.

Also, you might want to consider 4.56's on the 35's. Most here would agree 4.56's would offer better performance on the 35's. That being said, when it comes to ease and cost, 4.10's can be a cheaper route. Buy rear axle, and front diff, swap them in and call it a day.

While the Radflo's are a good choice, I feel it prudent to ask why do you want them? Because a bunch of us guys with 35's bought them? They're now about $1K and it's something that should really be determined by your mission if you want to make that investment. The second factor to mention is, that only a small number of folks here have run them for longer than a year, and no one has significantly wheeled them hard. Although Moots & HARDTRAILZ are working to rectify that by putting the Radflos thru their paces.

If you are mall crawling or not planning on extended regular offroad trips I'd recommend Marks 3inch Suspension lift first. At least weight the pro's and cons of making the investment. I'm sure HARDTRAILZ will chime in with his thoughts on this too.

There are also other rear shock options you can consider, which have just recently been discussed in the Lifts section of the site. You might want to review this thread: viewtopic.php?f=15&t=20 & this thread: viewtopic.php?f=15&t=4811

Lastly, the SMAXX sway bar endlinks, while they're great, a number of us don't run sway bars. But this is determined by your mission and preference. You might want to consider what you prefer before you drop the $200 on back and front sway bar links. I've got a spare set in my garage now becuase I only run a front sway bar.

Hope some of this helps.

Also, if one of mods could move this thread to the introductions forum, I think that would be more appropriate.

[exb5182]

To answer your question on intent, I have a few reasons im thinking of going the coilover route. First I do have a lot of trails and live in the sticks in PA... I'm new to trailblazers not to off roading. I have a lot of friends who trail ride and used to participate with previous trucks I had. Second reason for their ability to be adjusted and ride quality something im not going to get with a typical strut and coil spring. Third yes they me be around a grand but id rather spend the money once than by a 3" spacer, or spings, and struts (my struts are about shot). And finally because im gonna fab up a bumper so my factory springs really arent going to be much of an option and I really can see replacing them adding a spacer and buying new stuts when I could just spend a little extra now and not worry about it. Thanks for the tip on ratio my trail blazer actually has 3.42 ratio now so id have to regear it anyway. Im the kind of person that when I do something I do it all the way. Ive been a diesel mechanic for 10 years and woke up one day and decided to go to college and boom years later im in law school. So I guess thats my final reason for the coilovers its just my personality. Hahaha

[exb5182]

Oh and I was planning on only running my ft sway bar and removing the rear.

[mikekey]

Spend the time and go 4.56's. I'm on 3.75's now, it's mhem on the 35's. On the highway, I have to maintain 62mph to keep the Transmission in lock up. Around town, if I'm not going faster than 45mph, I have to keep it in 3rd. I'll eventually be on 4.56's this year before our Moab trip. But 3.42's on 35's, don't even attempt it. Upgrade those gears first. Even if you just get 4.10's.

[exb5182]

Yea my plans are to have everything on the ground in front of me and do all the work at once on a weeked when my shop is closed. I dont like piece mealing stuff so I finally have all the funds and am ready to proceed I just ordered my body lift adapters some rear spings and rear spacers.

[Diacom]

Welcome, I'd also suggest picking up some of Mikes skid plates or fabing up some of your own.

[exb5182]

Just to give an update Mikekey I did take your advice and rethink the coil overs. The main reason here being that like an idiot I didnt look at my rear and now have about 10 calls and emails out about acquiring an 8.6. Hopefully one will work out early this week because besides gears i have everything else on its way. I dont care if its an empty housing.... in fact that could be better because it be cheap and I could spend the saved money making how I want it. Are there any recommendations on lockers or posi units? I want to say that its nice to have so many people who are knowledgeable on trailblazers. I ordered a bunch of stuff from Markmc and he is a great guy. I had a bunch of questions so he gave me his phone number and straightened some thoughts of mine out. I'm just grateful for the people who decided to go this route before me and dealt with a lot of headaches. Lol I've never had so many little quirks to deal with when lifting something.... So here is whats on it way now (I will start a build thread one I start getting the stuff and building)
Ft
Bilstein ft struts
markmc 3 inch suspension lift
rear
z71 springs
markmc spring spacer
Skyjacker 8030 shocks
Massive speed upper and lower control arm
Massive speed panhard bar
Wheels- Procomp 7036 17x9 4.75 offset with -6 back spacing
Markmc wheel adapters.
Still need to order-
Tires (I get a killer deal at work through a wholesaler so that will be early this week)
Gears Im going to take the advice and go with 4.56 I just need to get my hands on an axle housing
Ft sway bar links... Im still torn on what to do.
Sheet metal and a whole lot of card board- Once everything else is done im going to spend a weekend at my work (after my semester ends) and try to fab some stuff up (ft bumper, skid plates)- we'll see how that turns out.... im used to fabricating floors in 1985 B series macks- nice thing no one sees your welds lol. But I think it will turn out alright.. I guess ill wait and see.... THANK YOU GUYS FOR YOUR HELP like i said your knowledge has saved me a lot of headaches. Ed

[exb5182]

I forgot 3" body lift... and im replacing all bjs, bushings, and anything I may run into that needs replaced while I habe it apart... hopefully all the suspension stuff will be here sometime this week so I can get started next weekend since I finally have a weekend free from school work and road service calls on trucks

[navigator]

The powertrax no-slip reports to have good highway manners and excellent offroad ability for about $500.
You'll need an open carrier to install it. I bought one and what I thought was an open rear only to find that the rear they shipped had a limited slip carrier so I sold the no-slip.

[exb5182]

Thanks. Yea all of the axles I found close seem to have a large price difference between the open carrier and g80 hopefuls come tomorrow I get some return emails and phone calls so I can finish putting my project supplies together. Im assuming from what ive read the factory limited slip g80 isnt that great.

[djthumper]

I hope you are ordering a 06 or newer rear end. If not you will have a bunch of other headaches to deal with.

[exb5182]

Yea I kept my search to 06 and up out of exts. The exts mainly had the 8.6 correct?

[djthumper]

EXTs and V8s (not SS)

[exb5182]

Yes sir. Hopefully one will pan out to be what I need.

[mikekey]

The open rear end, ie non g80 tends to be cheaper. Especially if you get one in 3.42. Depends on what you're doing. You're spending money one way or another, just depends where.

[DustinC1989]

Lock right lockers run about $325 and Spartan lockers around $300. IMO that's the best route.
You will need a 8.6 w/ open diff for them. I remember reading that the lock right for a Ford 9" would work in our 8" axle, but to my knowledge it was never confirmed.

The G80 isn't bad, its just not great and has been known to be weak.

[exb5182]

Yea the thought cross my mind about keeping the 8 for a little while but a 4.10 is steepest gearing I could find and it would be a waste of time and money to buy a new r@p amd rebuild it only to remove it when it breaks, I get tired of the shifting being all messed up or I get tire of getting stuck in puddles. I found a couple of rears around the 200 range that if the listings are correct should be what I need.