Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

What did you do to your GMT today?

Trailblazer and Envoy related, but not off-road related...

by NC_IslandRunner » Sun Dec 29, 2013 12:24 pm

That's what it looks like when you leave your truck below the tide line. It's real. I've seen similar pics before and a friend about had it happen when his 4WD went out.
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by mikekey » Sun Dec 29, 2013 12:40 pm

Seen that happen in the OBX a few times.
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by Moots1288 » Sun Dec 29, 2013 1:17 pm

Waiting for her to turn over everytime I hit the key. Tried to do security relearn procedure again, did not work out well. :wallbash: It's almost a month now. :cry:

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by ErikSS » Sun Dec 29, 2013 2:53 pm

Moots1288 wrote:Waiting for her to turn over everytime I hit the key. Tried to do security relearn procedure again, did not work out. It's almost a month now.

:thumbdown:
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by Trail X » Mon Dec 30, 2013 12:20 am

mikekey wrote:You going up in tire size James?

Eventually. I'd like to end up in the 34 to 35 territory.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Mon Dec 30, 2013 12:34 am

Finally got a nut to hook up the front swaybar after a couple months without any swaybars.
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by Bcchevy » Mon Dec 30, 2013 1:40 am

Any luck on that ting moots?
Would've been nice to make it out there this weekend.
Good luck!
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by mikekey » Mon Dec 30, 2013 2:17 pm

Just replaced my battery. DieHard P-4 Group 34/78DT for those interested.

Now I think I'm going to deflate the tires, move her back into the garage and attempt those tie rod ends again now that I have a week off and some new tools.
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by Aries » Mon Dec 30, 2013 3:57 pm

mikekey wrote:Just replaced my battery. DieHard P-4 Group 34/78DT for those interested.

Cool! I have a DieHard Group 65/50065 top post that I purchased in Aug for my CJ, I've been debating about drop it in the TB. It's just a little wider.
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by mikekey » Mon Dec 30, 2013 4:05 pm

I just went with it based on recommendations from this forum and doing some reading about the battery itself. I used to be a fan of Optima Red Tops but I've heard they've turned to garbage in the past couple of years.

I'm going to be installing a 250 amp high output alternator next for a few electrical upgrades I'm working on.

Moved the truck back into the garage for the week. Going to tackle the stuff that stumped me last time now that I have a full week off of work and JorDanee is more settled with Alex.

Tie Rods, replace ball joints, upper and lower control arms, fix the sunroof, bake open my headlamps and clean them out, and rewire a couple things.

:happy whip:
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by NC_IslandRunner » Wed Jan 01, 2014 2:29 am

Optima is made in everyone's favorite country/factory and since it's production moved there quality complaints have gone way up, at least from what I've read.
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by The Roadie » Wed Jan 01, 2014 8:40 am

I think the Mexican transfer happened so long ago that if (and I don't really know) There are continuing quality issues, then the blame lies with the bean counters. Of course, the poorly managed transfer has permanently damaged their reputation to the point I see no reason to ever try them again to see if they've improved.
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by NC_IslandRunner » Wed Jan 01, 2014 9:08 am

I looked at the history page on the Optima website and they proudly mention OPTIMA Batteries, Inc. breaks ground for a new, larger, modern manufacturing facility northeast of Denver, Colorado in 1994, then in 2007 it says Ground is broken on new production facility, but leaves out the location so people don't know it's Mexico. They didn't lie they just try not to advertise the move.
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by mikekey » Wed Jan 01, 2014 12:58 pm

First of all, BIG THANK YOU to the ROADIE, I should of skipped fiddling with that stupid Tie-rod removal tool from Harbor Frieght and just bought a 15 inch adjustable wrench. I put that on the end of my Tie rod and loosened it in two seconds literally.

Here are how the Fabtech's compare to the OEM tie rods.
Image

Here is the tie rod installed.
Image

I haven't tightened anything down yet because I was wondering if I should use Blue RTV on the inner tie rod end to the steering rack?

I plan on actually removing the spindle today to press out those ball joints and install the new Moog components. But today's test fit was successful!
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by ErikSS » Wed Jan 01, 2014 1:12 pm

mikekey wrote: But today's test fit was successful!

:woot:

The outers look very much like the Moog. I still don't know why the inners have that ribbed section instead of just bing the larger diameter. They look good! I havn't heard of anyone using silicone on the boots. I have a pair of neoprene boots on order to help keep that clean.
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by TBYODA » Wed Jan 01, 2014 1:30 pm

ErikSS wrote:I still don't know why the inners have that ribbed section instead of just bing the larger diameter.
IDK but my guess is strength some how like on MDB skid plates were the edges change direction but I am no ME I could be way off in left field. Haha
Mike is there a loose ring on third ribbed section?

Erik go take picture of your your from the same angle as Mike in his last shot would be nice for a comparison.
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by mikekey » Wed Jan 01, 2014 1:41 pm

ErikSS wrote:
mikekey wrote: But today's test fit was successful!

:woot:

The outers look very much like the Moog. I still don't know why the inners have that ribbed section instead of just bing the larger diameter. They look good! I havn't heard of anyone using silicone on the boots. I have a pair of neoprene boots on order to help keep that clean.


Research suggests they may infact be Moog. They're greasable which is a plus.

Erik, can you please point me in the direction of the boots you've purchased. I don't think the OEM's are going to go back over these. With JorDanee home for 3 months, the TB can be down for repairs while I get to drive my GXP more daily.

TBYODA wrote:
ErikSS wrote:I still don't know why the inners have that ribbed section instead of just bing the larger diameter.
IDK but my guess is strength some how like on MDB skid plates were the edges change direction but I am no ME I could be way off in left field. Haha
Mike is there a loose ring on third ribbed section?

Erik go take picture of your your from the same angle as Mike in his last shot would be nice for a comparison.


I have no clue either. The Fabtechs are closer in design to a standard Tie Rod but straight.

Where the Rareparts and the CST (both of which are over $300) have a larger straighter outter TR end that seems to place the adjustment nut closer to the steering.

Image

Image

Image

Maybe James, Trailz or one of the guys who knows more than us will chime in.
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by Karo » Wed Jan 01, 2014 2:08 pm

JamesDowning wrote:
mikekey wrote:You going up in tire size James?

Eventually. I'd like to end up in the 34 to 35 territory.


WHAT???? :awesome: WHY?
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by ErikSS » Wed Jan 01, 2014 2:10 pm

Karo wrote:WHAT???? :awesome: WHY?


Cause he can!!! :raspberry:

Someone gave me the advice to figure out where I wanted to end up, and build it. I'm So glad they suggested that as I wouldn't want my truck any shorter.
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by v7guy » Wed Jan 01, 2014 2:12 pm

Mike, you're probably going to have to bark up a different tree, I know Matt ended up using the stock boot with a piece of rubber tubing to interface between the rack and the rod of the rod end. Since yours are a different diameter you'll need a different solution.


I think Erik needs to go bigger.
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