Cardone CV Shaft

[Trail X]

There's two Cardone CV units available on Rock-Auto:

Cardone Select: $50.79


Cardone A-1: $63.79


The A-1 looks like the factory shaft... the Select looks like a different tripod housing.

Does anyone know if both shafts come with the more easily-bendable boot? Is there any reason not to go with the Select? The tripod housing appears plastic... but I don't know for sure.

Do both use the 36mm nut instead of the 35mm? Is it the same thread as on the stock CVs? If so, I'll plan to use my old nut.

[Hatchet669]

i talked to them... the cardone a-1 are remanufactured to meet factory specs and u have to send in ur old ones to get ur core charge back... the cardone is brand new.. i went with new cause its cheaper and dont have to worry bout the core charge... in all even they said they have no idea why the reman is more expensive then the new... shouldnt be that way... but i just went for new..

i can take a look at mine.. but i think that is just a plastic cover over the metal shell

[Trail X]

i think that is just a plastic cover over the metal shell

Couldn't that pose a problem when it comes time to remove the sucker?

[The Roadie]

I have the $50 ones. There is no plastic. The threads match OEM.

[bgwolfpack]

I have the $50 ones. There is no plastic. The threads match OEM.

Was the set you replaced the original?
How many miles did you get on the previous set?

[The Roadie]

40K on the OEMs. Not totally shot, but I would rather wheel with the newer Cardone spares with nice neoprene boots than the originals. So I carry the OEMs as spares.

[Regulator1175]

It looks like I am in need of a new replacement. I ran down to visit some family outside of Charleston WV following Carlisle. While down here I found a Jeep club that was doing a trail run today, and I figured I might as well get the trucks maiden voyage out of the way. (trail report and pics coming soon) Anyway, while on the last mile or so (25 miles in) we were on a longer creek crossing. The best I can figure is that I caught a rogue rock while in the water and it broke something in the CV joint. the outer boot had bearings rattling around loose in it. I immediately switched back into 2 wheel drive, and limped the last mile to the trail head. I am ashamed to say I sacrificed the tools for the kids suitcases. Next time they will wear one outfit the entire week, but I will have tools to be able to take care of my own problems. Thankfully, I got some help from a few of the Jeep club guys, and separated both of the CV joints and removed the half shaft.

My question, where the splined portion connects to the passenger side 4 wheel disconnect, is it secured in place or will it slide out. It is currently still in place, but I am concerned about it backing out on our trip back to Indiana. Can I remove it easily (very limited on tools right now) and if I can do I need to worry about fluid loss or closing the hole?

One further question, are these side specific, or can I replace both and keep the current drivers side for a trail spare?

Thanks in advance for your help and advice.

[teebes]

It looks like I am in need of a new replacement. I ran down to visit some family outside of Charleston WV following Carlisle. While down here I found a Jeep club that was doing a trail run today, and I figured I might as well get the trucks maiden voyage out of the way. (trail report and pics coming soon) Anyway, while on the last mile or so (25 miles in) we were on a longer creek crossing. The best I can figure is that I caught a rogue rock while in the water and it broke something in the CV joint. the outer boot had bearings rattling around loose in it. I immediately switched back into 2 wheel drive, and limped the last mile to the trail head. I am ashamed to say I sacrificed the tools for the kids suitcases. Next time they will wear one outfit the entire week, but I will have tools to be able to take care of my own problems. Thankfully, I got some help from a few of the Jeep club guys, and separated both of the CV joints and removed the half shaft.

My question, where the splined portion connects to the passenger side 4 wheel disconnect, is it secured in place or will it slide out. It is currently still in place, but I am concerned about it backing out on our trip back to Indiana. Can I remove it easily (very limited on tools right now) and if I can do I need to worry about fluid loss or closing the hole?

One further question, are these side specific, or can I replace both and keep the current drivers side for a trail spare?

Thanks in advance for your help and advice.

Bummer about the trail carnage.

Yes, both sides are the same part and swappable.

On the passenger side, there are no fluids to worry about, unfortunately. Drivers side is another story and you'll need to maintain some sort of cap/cover to keep your diff fluid from draining (for any others that may read this thread).

[The Roadie]

And here's the size cap that fits - thanks to Teebes' Gatorade habit. I had to add a few bottles to my own drawer supplies, to make sure I'd have a cap next time if he wasn't around.

[Trail X]

My question, where the splined portion connects to the passenger side 4 wheel disconnect, is it secured in place or will it slide out. It is currently still in place, but I am concerned about it backing out on our trip back to Indiana. Can I remove it easily (very limited on tools right now) and if I can do I need to worry about fluid loss or closing the hole?

Leave the inter-shaft in place. Don't try to remove it... A) it's hard to remove - B) its holding the diff liquid in.

Just run it in 2WD and you'll be fine.

You may want to still cover the splined disconnect hole, or else you'll need to bust it apart and regrease.

[Regulator1175]

Sorry, I don't know the actual terminology for the parts I was referring to. As always, photo evidence is the best so here you go.

Vehicle side:



Wheel side:



I know the wheel side is bolted in. My concern is if the vehicle side portion of the shaft is going to back out while on the trip home or if its solid enough in there that it will stay in place.

[teebes]

Yuck, that's going to be a bear to remove.

You should be fine to travel with it as-is, in 2-wheel drive. On the wheel side, do you still hav parts sticking out or what does that side look like? I would pull off as much loose items on that side as well.

[Regulator1175]

The second picture was of the wheel side. I have basically separated the shaft at the joints on either end.

[glfredrick]

Couple of helpful links:

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/otc7507.html

Use with a slide hammer puller.


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http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp ... ir=catalog

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[The Roadie]

The inner section near the oil pan is called the tripot or tripod joint (both seem to be valid). It's held into the splined disconnect with a circlip, and the way you have to remove it is with a slide happer, or a long drift punch (I use an 18" length of rebar) hammeres at the BACK of the tripot housing from under the oil pan. I don't think it can possibly back out of the receptacle while you drive.

[MrSmithsTB]

I haven't tried removing the pass side, but a few swift whacks with a Collins axe and a pickle fork disengaged the drivers side.

[Regulator1175]

I got the new CV Shafts in today. I will be changing both tomorrow, but just wanted to verify some info.

1) No fluid loss on the passenger side
2) prepare for fluid loss on drivers side (this is fine, I need to replace the fluid anyway)
3) a slide hammer should be able separate the shafts from the differential and the passenger side disconnect. There are no further bolts or clips to remove that are securing it in those locations.

I will document this replacement, and do my best to post a how to. I have checked around both Trailvoy as well as here and haven't seen anything. Thanks in advance, hopefully there will be some helpful folks on tomorrow through the day, I may need some advice.

[Gordinho80]

Please do your best to document everything as this is in my near future... Good luck.

[irishboy02]

PB blast + WD40 your axle threads so that your axle nut will come off easier. Its going to be a PITA without air tools too BTW. IIRC the axle nut was either a 36 or 38mm.

Also, SWING AWAY. Separating the cv from the diff sucks. Just keep switching to a bigger hammer untill you get it off.

[fishsticks]

The nut is 35mm, and there's an irregularity on it so that it doesn't back out easily. It will fight the whole way off.

On the passenger side, I'd just pull the splined disconnect. When I rebuilt mine I pulled it and the axle as a unit and it was pretty easy to get the axle out of it once it was off the truck.