[Solved] Stabilitrak, ABS, and traction control lights on.

[Opeth]

These came on out of nowhere, had been driving for 30 mins and was rounding a corner at 25mph. Shut the truck off and restarted it, lights were still on. Did it once more and the lights went off. 2 hours later drove another 15 mins and the lights came back on when I reached my next destination. Started truck again, lights once again went off and drove for another 15 mins and while cruising at above speed going straight they came back on again. Turned the truck off/on again and system cleared again.... Wtf?

I replaced the front wheel bearings back in January with some eBay brand and haven't had any issues till now, not even sure if this is related to those. I checked the speed sensor connections and both were tight up front.

Thoughts?

[Regulator1175]

That sounds like it is a wheel speed sensor malfunctioning. Do you still have the speed sensor cables from your old wheel bearings? If so I would suggest swapping out cables and see it that solves it.

[Opeth]

No I didn't save them, I tossed the whole bearing out because they were shot. A little digging around is pointing to possibly the steering wheel position sensor. Seems to be a common failure and causes this to happen, or a screw up in the PCM software which a TSB addresses.

Or possibly a speed sensor. I don't know which one tho....

[Regulator1175]

The speed sensor is on the end of the cables going into the wheel bearings. I know from plenty of experience that the ebay wheel bearings tend to have flaky speed sensors. That is the most likely culprit. I would start there.

[TB_Brothers]

i would as already suggested check your wheel sensors most likely the culprit a scanner would tell you for sure

[Opeth]

I knew I should have just bucked up and bought the timkens, one sounds like its growling again but with mud tires its hard to tell.

I have an extended warranty for another 13 days, but don't know if I voided the warranty rolling how I am. Would have to strip my truck back down to stock wheels and no spacers. Then they would probably blame the lift kit.

Local shops ( advance/ auto zone) don't have a tool that reads ABS codes.

[Regulator1175]

I knew I should have just bucked up and bought the timkens, one sounds like its growling again but with mud tires its hard to tell.

I have an extended warranty for another 13 days, but don't know if I voided the warranty rolling how I am. Would have to strip my truck back down to stock wheels and no spacers. Then they would probably blame the lift kit.

Local shops ( advance/ auto zone) don't have a tool that reads ABS codes.

For what it's worth, I have run the ebay 1 yr warranty wheel bearings as well. I have twice now replaced them under warranty at around 10 months and they have not given me any trouble with replacement.

[Opeth]

Ok, got the code read. It's coming back as B0035 left wheel speed sensor circuit malfunction. I did hear some odd grinding oming from that side, like the dust shield was hitting the rotor. Guess ill have to tear it apart and look at everything.

[Regulator1175]

Ok, got the code read. It's coming back as B0035 left wheel speed sensor circuit malfunction. I did hear some odd grinding oming from that side, like the dust shield was hitting the rotor. Guess ill have to tear it apart and look at everything.

Or maybe since everyone is suggesting that it is the sensor cable, and you now even have proof that it is the speed sensor, you replace the speed sensor! That is what warranties are for.

[Opeth]

$100 deductible with the warranty, not going to pay more when the sensor is less than that. The issue could also be within the hub itself, does anyone know the resistance numbers for the circuit so I can make sure it's not further up in the wire harness first?

[Regulator1175]

Can't help there, but maybe swap the cables and then get the code read again. See if the problem migrates with the cable.

[Opeth]

Can't help there, but maybe swap the cables and then get the code read again. See if the problem migrates with the cable.

Valid point, if I can't find the numbers I'll try that route.

[fishsticks]

IIRC it's a pulse signal, not a resistance.

[06MidnightBlue]

Just out of curiosity, every now and then I get a service TC light. When I shut off, the light goes off then comes back on a few weeks later. Same problems?

[Opeth]

No yours is likely the steering wheel position sensor. I washed the truck the other day and light has stayed off.... hrmmmm

[Opeth]

...and the plot thickens. I now have the steering position sensor code, still the same wheel bearing code, a code for ABS performance or something. Note I have not done anything yet to resolve this, been on the road since Monday. Tomorrow is suppose to be nice so I'm planning on looking more into this and swapping sensors.

[Opeth]

Ok, was bored today and tore into the problem wheel sensor.

The cheapie eBay bearing has a poor crush gasket which clearly didn't work...









So I took a wire brush and tried to clean the corrosion off the steel pick up on the sensor and brushed the area around the sensor. Re-installed but lights came back on, I forgot to try unplugging the connection at the body harness to see if that's tight. Went for a drive and all the lights are off for now. I'll see what happens and go from here next.

Edit: well that didn't help either...

Now I have these codes;

B0035 - left front wheel speed sensor circuit malfunction
B0455- steering wheel position sensor
B0244 - pulse with modulation delivered torque malfunction
U1000- class 2 data link malfunction error

Ugh, I'm thinking its something more serious than just a wheel speed sensor.

[Regulator1175]

Ok, was bored today and tore into the problem wheel sensor.

The cheapie eBay bearing has a poor crush gasket which clearly didn't work...









So I took a wire brush and tried to clean the corrosion off the steel pick up on the sensor and brushed the area around the sensor. Re-installed but lights came back on, I forgot to try unplugging the connection at the body harness to see if that's tight. Went for a drive and all the lights are off for now. I'll see what happens and go from here next.

Edit: well that didn't help either...

Now I have these codes;

B0035 - left front wheel speed sensor circuit malfunction
B0455- steering wheel position sensor
B0244 - pulse with modulation delivered torque malfunction
U1000- class 2 data link malfunction error

Ugh, I'm thinking its something more serious than just a wheel speed sensor.

Did you try switching sides with the sensor wires? I would venture to guess that you swap sides and all of a sudden you will have codes for the right wheel speed sensor.

[Opeth]

No, ran out of daylight today. I'll try that tomorrow but I don't think it's going to switch since usually anything with a B letter for a DTC is body related, C should be for chassis. These ARE reading out with B's in front of them. If my codes were C0035 and C0455 I would just buy the new parts for those items. This is why I am thinking a bad ground somewhere or something more technical. Even more so with that U1000 which is a pretty big deal, but the computer just doesn't know which system is failing.

[Opeth]

Ok.... Here we go.

I removed my mud tires and I swapped the front ABS wheel speed sensors around, now I am up to 5 DTC Codes. I also removed the ground wire below the driver side door and made sure the contacts were metal to metal.

I also used the scan tool this time instead of the dumb key punchers behind the counter and the codes are actually what they are suppose to be. Not sure what the hell they were punching to get B codes, but everything is coming in as a chassis DTC code.

C0035 - LF wheel speed sensor
C0040 - RF wheel speed sensor
C0455 - Steering wheel position sensor
C0244 - Pulse width modulation delivered torque malfunction
U1000 - Class 2 data link error

Soo, the original LF speed sensor is obviously bad because the RF is now coding. Since the LF is still coming across bad with a known good wire that means there is a bad ground issue or the whole hub is bad.

I'm still not sure what is causing the last two errors, but I'm calling my dealer tomorrow and having them contact my warranty company to see if any of this crap is covered, $100 dectable is cheaper than buying all these parts myself. I'll keep updating this as I go.