Grinding Noise Only When turning Right??

[Cable810]

Here is what its doing when I turn right. Dosn't do it when I turn left.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMyHLyX2 ... e=youtu.be

My Friend thinks its the CV Shaft going bad. I asked my shop when they did the alignment to check and see what it was and I don't think they did cause they never told me anything.

What are your thoughts?

Roughly 160K OD Shows close to 140K(Uncle put an OD Stopper on it before we bought it)
Made the grinding noise before the lift.

[DirtyBacon04]

Sounds like the heat shield... or maybe the beginning of your hub going out.

[Cable810]

Checked the Hub when we did the lift(Grabed the top and bottom of the tire and rock in and out) And there was no play in it.

[The Roadie]

Answered you on GMTN. It's the hub.

[Cable810]

Thanks! Read your Reply Roadie. Timken Hub? http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/detai ... 13188.html

[Cable810]

Checked with the shop and they think its rust on the rotors. I can'treally see rust causing the noise. Could it be the heat shield?

[Trail X]

Sounded like a heat shield in your video. But video-audio can be deceptive at times. The shield is bendable with enough force. Take the wheel off and look around the back side of the rotor to see if the shield is getting close to the rotor in any areas. If so, bend it out a bit and see if it makes any difference. Strange that it would make a noise only on a right turn though.

Regarding a hub, roll up your windows and get on the highway. If you hear humming noises at certain speed bands, it could be a hub. Hit one of the speeds where it's noisiest and turn left and right. If the noise changes (louder or softer) as you turn, then it's most likely a hub.

[navigator]

by turn James means kind of bump the steering wheel left or right like from 12 to 1 or 12 to 11, it doesn't take a lot to notice the difference.

[Cable810]

There was kinda a drone in the cab mostly came from the rear i think. I drove it about 100 miles and never noticed a hum, i was doing about 55mph

[dvanbramer88]

Went through this with my Dad's truck and Josh's first TB. You hear the grinding/clicking noise when doing this or that. Everyone has an idea what it is, CV joint, Hub Bearing, U-Joint etc. As said by mechanic neighbor and i agree, Sometimes it's better to let it get worse before you try and diagnose and end up shot-gunning parts. The worse it gets, the easier it will be to diagnose.

But try what JD said, it worked with Josh's first TB. Drive at a bunch of different speeds, in the range of 30-70. If the humming gets louder at any speed, try swerving back and forth, throwing the weight of the truck. If it stops while turning one way or another, probably a wheel bearing. When you take the weight off one side by swerving, the noise will usually stop, and when you throw the weight onto the bad side, the noise will get worse.

Also, you can check CV shafts, Jack up one front corner at a time and slowing spin the front wheel by hand, The bad CV might make some noises or you'll feel some chunky friction. This test might be better after the problem gets worse.

[Cable810]

I just want to figure out what ever this is before the August Meet I have set up.

[navigator]

you should be able to confirm the dust shield pretty easy.
If you think it might be the rotor you can try switching them to the other side to see if the sound switches sides.
Both of those are $0
If it is the rotor you can likely get it turned/ground for $10-15.
if it isn't either of those then you can get the hub.
if you haven't changed the hub before I expect that is it.
Mine started grumbling at about 90k but I couldn't actually confirm it was the hub outside of the "veer test" until I changed them. I had no play in them at all, even when removed they were really tight.

I only have about 5-6k miles on the el cheapos from ebay that were $76 for a pair.

[Cable810]

I'll check the heat shield today, Try the rotor tomorrow along witht he veer test. If I find the time. Sad thing is I'm working every saturday this month....

[Cable810]

So I jacked up the front of the TB, spun the tires round and here is what I got
Left Side
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BNX8e0Q ... e=youtu.be
Right Side
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUaRNp3f ... e=youtu.be

Then I jacked up the front turned the Left Tire to the right and spun it. I was not getting the grinding sound. If I was to do the Veer Test I'm thinking that there would be no difference between the Veer and Jacking the front up. Cause turning right puts the weight on the left tire, jack the front up removes the weight. Same as the Veer Test IMO.
If it was the heat shield I would still hear that no matter what?

y'all following?

[navigator]

I don't have sound on this computer.
I'm expecting nothing sounded out of the ordinary with your jacked up test.
This would lead me to rule out the shield/rotor.

I don't think your test would show if the wheel bearing was bad or not.
Do you get any noise when going straight ahead at any speed?

Only hearing when turning right would tell me it is the left wheel bearing (if it is a bearing issue) because that would tend to put more pressure on the left hub and relieve some pressure on the right hub. I'll try to watch the videos with sound when I get a chance on another computer.

[Cable810]

I get no "Out of the Ordinary Sound" when driving in a straight line. Shop said the clean the left rotor and see if that solves the problem. He thinks its rust build up in the Left Rotor.

[Trail X]

That test doesn't show much Caleb. A wheel bearing would only present itself with that test if it was very worn.

The high speed test allows the bearings to hit a resonant frequency. By doing the veer test (good name, I like it) you're changing where/how hard the bearings are loading on their races, and it therefore changes the resonance amplitude (louder or softer). Trying to to that by hand is futile.

The 'veer test' is easy... just go find an interstate/highway and drive up and down it for a bit, varying speeds and listening closely for drone or hum. When mine failed, I had a loud grinding/hum at 35 and 70, with nearly no noise at 53. It is, however, nearly impossible to 100% identify which side the bearing failure is on by using the high speed veer test. The change in noise depends entirely on what part of the bearing is worn. So use the test as a guide only.

[NC_IslandRunner]

If you can find a shop that has one, there is a wireless stethoscope they hook up in 1-4 locations and while you drive around they can tell where the noise is coming from. It may not be worth buying the tool as it is like $300

[navigator]

I was able to listen to the noises on another computer.
It does sound different than my hub noises, like light weigh metal, brake pads, shield etc.
When did they start?
I think I would start by pulling the wheels off and see what might be going on.
If you can rotate with the wheels off you might be able to get a better idea on the noise.
You might pull off the brakes and rotors and then turn it and see if you still hear the same noise.
if it is rust on the rotors, near me I can get a rotor turned/ground for like $10 each and that will make them have a like new surface again.
You can usually have them turned once or twice before they need replacing.

[Cable810]

I can't remember when this started. Shop did the veer test(forgot to mention) he said that there was no hum but he did less than 30mph during the veer test. If i turn right under 10 mph the noise is gone and anyfaster it seems to get louder.
I'll be checking the rotors tomorrow.