Solved - Power Steering Question

[galacticfuzz]

I took and looked at the OS as well as did a search here, but the articles didn't exactly answer the question which is the following. Did the pump go out or a line? Went out fishing and on the way home I noticed that the steering started to stiffen up. It went back to normal, but as I was pulling off from the highway, there was very little assist. I pulled into a parking lot down the street and looked under to find that basically from the crossmember back was soaked with an orange colored fluid that was dripping from the frame. I got it back home (couple minutes away) and checked without a surprise that fluid was empty (shocker). During the couple of minutes, the power steering seemed to flicker from life and death. I let the engine cool and did a visual check and everything seemed okay. I'll get a pick up in a few. I found it disturbingly funny that I had just passed 50k too.

[chevycrew]

Pump going out shouldn't cause fluid loss, but the fluid loss could cause the intermittent steering assist.

[DirtyBacon04]

If the pump went out, I dont think you'd be having fluttering assist. I think you'd be stuck in muscle mode.

[galacticfuzz]

Update:

Got some p.s. fluid in it, pump worked fine until the fluid was out. It was leaking from behind the LCA in a steady stream. Once the fluid was out, the steering stiffened. There was a lot of whining/whirring coming from the p.s. pump as well. After speaking with my dad (former heavy equipment mechanic) he said it sounds like it could be a cut or issue with a hose. My reference to him from how it looked with the engine running "It's pissing like the outboard on your boat when it's in the water."

After about a minute it's back in muscle mode lol

[galacticfuzz]

[Trail X]

Sounds like you've got it nailed then. Trace down the nick and replace the tube. Most likely a rusted spot. I think its basically all hard line.

[galacticfuzz]

Anybody know how challenging this will end up being?

[Trail X]

Spot the leak site first. I think the lines snap together the same way the transmission lines do. If so, should be relatively easy. Just look with your eyeballs and you should be able to assess it's difficulty on your own scale.

[navigator]

I know brake fluid is pretty tough on painted items etc, is PS fluid the same? I know PS and Tranny fluid are pretty close to the same and 50/50 Tranny Fluid/Acetone is a really good penetrant. Just thinking is there any collateral damage from the leak. You might want to clean/lubricate/protect affected by the leak.

[galacticfuzz]

Going to take a better look this afternoon to find the spot.

James - eyeballs? I was going to use a microscope. The difficulty question was meant in regards to replacing the whole line, but I read where compression fittings and 3/8" brake line will work as a mend. Just need to cut the bad spot out. Could also flare the ends if in an easy to get to spot.

[DirtyBacon04]

Plastic skid plate <----- "Well, thats your problem right there."

[galacticfuzz]

Well, figured out the culprit. Thanks for the tip on using the eyeball tool James. Not the lines at all, just a rack and pinion seal. This is the view past the drivers side tire.

[Trail X]

Are you positive that that bolt is the leak site? Its a yolk adjustment screw and I'm not positive it's supposed to have any pressure behind it. If it is indeed leaking from that exact location, then you may have an internal seal failure... in which case your entire rack and pinion is toast. I think the PS fluid lines come in very close to that site too, get your eyeball tool on those too and ensure they are dry. You don't want to replace the R&P if you can just replace a fitting.

[galacticfuzz]

I ended up taking it in this morning (warranty and stuff covers this I found out) and it's a couple of internal o-rings and a seal that needs to be replaced at that location. Cost is less than the deductible, so works out I guess.

James, positive that's where it was from. I checked the lines, all were dry to that area. Had the girlfriend start the engine and I watched that location while it started foaming and leaking.

[Trail X]

I ended up taking it in this morning (warranty and stuff covers this I found out) and it's a couple of internal o-rings and a seal that needs to be replaced at that location. Cost is less than the deductible, so works out I guess.

James, positive that's where it was from. I checked the lines, all were dry to that area. Had the girlfriend start the engine and I watched that location while it started foaming and leaking.

Good deal. I hope that o-ring fix works for you. From the schematics I saw, it didn't look like that area was pressurized with fluid, which led me to believe that maybe an internal oil seal had blown out or gone bad, and this was just a down-stream effect.

[galacticfuzz]

James, checking the diagram (link below) I can get what you are saying with it not looking like a pressurized area. The o-ring that I can see being the issue would be number 13 and 23. Or 15/16/17 since it's in the front by the spot highlighted before.
http://parts.nalleygmc.com/showAssembly ... rchString=

[Trail X]

13 and 23 appear to be the O rings for the supply and return lines. Not internal.

17/16 appear to be top side seals. You'd see the leak coming from above, where the steering shaft comes into the rack assy.

From your images above, it appears you were zeroing in on the area of item 22 (which is the yoke adjuster). There may be some O rings in there, but I do not believe the gear area of the rack is pressurized. The pressurized area (power assist ram) is to the passenger side of the rack and requires sealing on both sides. So for it to bubble around the yolk adapter could mean that an internal seal failed.

[galacticfuzz]

So....looks like i'm driving a 2009 Impala until Tuesday now. Found out that the seal that blew was a result of a bigger issue. The steering gear has a jam/clog somewhere inside of it and will end up being replaced. The pressure would build from the pump working fine, causing the seal to give. Would be looking at about $1100 in repair bills, but for once the extended warranty I got makes it only the deductible, $200 instead.