Grinding Noise Only When turning Right??

[DirtyBacon04]

[fishsticks]

Rotor sure looks warped to me. Could be bad video quality.


Take your 18mm wrench and put the box end side on a caliper bolt. Take your 17mm or 19mm wrench and hook the box end of it into the open end of the 18mm wrench. I don't have a picture, but if you hook it into the end that you are putting load into, you can use it as a cheater bar. Apply swearing/hammer as necessary. Those bolts will move.

Also,

I tell my parents what y'all say and they are like what does the Shop say..... My parents don't really accepct the fact of me going by what y'all say. When y'all have the MOST and HIGHEST knowledge of our platform.

You're 18 right? You own your truck? How exactly is this mommy and daddy's decision? Kids your age can make the choice to go play in the sandbox. I think you can handle the decisions on how to fix your truck.

[DirtyBacon04]

I dont think the rotor is warped. i think the changing shadows are an optical illusion.
If the left and right heat shields are identical as far as proximity to rotor, and only the driver side makes noise in right turns, then that eliminates the possibility of the rotor just touching being the problem. I think the worn hub is allowing enough play to make contact between the rotor and shield. Yes the sound your hearing is the heatshield hitting the rotor. However the discrepency is not with the shield or rotor. The shield is stationary, but the rotor and hub are rotating parts. Now what is the rotor mounted on, that supports 100% of it's weight and allows it to turn? The hub.
Regardless of what you want to hear the discrepency being, it dosen't change the gripe. I know it's a costly repair (moderatley). But hey, it could always be worse.
So accept it for what it is, take charge of the situation, and accomplish the mission.

[navigator]

I would think if the hub was worn it would make the gap at the bottom wider when you put weight on it instead of narrower which since the bottom appears to be where there is less room should make more room and less noise, who knows.
Caleb, is there like a lip of crusty rust on the outer edge of the rotor? If so you might be able sand/scrape/file that off a little to see if it changes. You might be able to do that without removing the brakes at all.

You need to get those bolts loose anyway. Fishsticks gives a good method of using one wrench like a breaker bar, I've had that work before.
If cleaning up the edge of the rotor doesn't help, I would pull the rotors and take a look, if it is the heat shield I would think that you could see the wear pattern.

One other thought, is it your"squeal bar" off of your brake pads?

In order of what I would try (because it is cheapest and easiest)
1. "clean" edge of rotor to make sure it isn't rust buildup causing it.
2. remove rotor and inspect rotor,heat shield and brake pads(you might be able to check the pads without removing them).
3. if you rule out #2 then buy a hub. If you are tight on money get the set off of ebay. They should last at least a year and next year you might be in a different situation financially.

[DirtyBacon04]

The only issue I'm seeing in your logic, Chris, is that if it was the crud on the rotor hitting the shield, then why wouldn't it happen while driving straight? Since the sound occurs in a turn, that indicates that the discrepency is only present when lateral stress is applied. Also, as mentioned before, static human weight will not be able to replicate the forces present when a several thousand pound vehicle corners at 30+ mph.
Caleb, you could pull the rotor off and look on the heat shield to see if there is any indication of metal on metal contact.

I'd still go with the first 2 options that Chris gave first, since they are free. Hopefully that'll fix it for ya, and I'd look like an idiot.

[Trail X]

The only issue I'm seeing in your logic, Chris, is that if it was the crud on the rotor hitting the shield, then why wouldn't it happen while driving straight? Since the sound occurs in a turn, that indicates that the discrepency is only present when lateral stress is applied. Also, as mentioned before, static human weight will not be able to replicate the forces present when a several thousand pound vehicle corners at 30+ mph.

True, but the thing to keep in mind is that even a new hub will deflect some in a turn. Even if his hub may deflect enough to cause rubbing between rust crud and the heat shield, doesn't necessarily mean it's bad. Remember, steel is elastic.

[DirtyBacon04]

I wasn't saying its bad. I was saying it's showing early symptoms of going bad. By no means was I saying to take the vehicle off the road until it's fixed! Hell I say drive it until its dead obvious what the issue is (ex: Wheel rolling out in front of the truck at intersection). Hell my xmsn guy said that i need to stop driving my truck until the xmsn is fixed... Yea, I just drove xcountry on this thing. It'll hold over around town, even though the temps routinely reach 235.

[Trail X]

even though the temps routinely reach 235.

Ouch! That sucker needs a TCC lockup valve and an aux cooler.

[navigator]

...my xmsn guy said that i need to stop driving my truck until the xmsn is fixed... Yea, I just drove xcountry on this thing. It'll hold over around town, even though the temps routinely reach 235.

initially I thought he was referring to his XM radio or something

[DirtyBacon04]

...my xmsn guy said that i need to stop driving my truck until the xmsn is fixed... Yea, I just drove xcountry on this thing. It'll hold over around town, even though the temps routinely reach 235.

initially I thought he was referring to his XM radio or something

DOH!

[Cable810]

Needed new Caliper Kits and Rotors turned... NOISE is finally GONE!!!!

[Trail X]

What's a caliper kit?

[djthumper]

So you had to rebuild the calipers?

[boog2006]

I hope caliper kit doesn't mean brake pads...

[NC_IslandRunner]

What's a caliper kit?

X's 2

If he turned the rotors he had to get new pads to, at least I would.

[Cable810]

Its the thing that hold the brake Pads on. Its not the caliper, some aluminium peice that hold the pads on... Atleats I think. The shop called it the Caliper Kit. Yes I had to take it to the shop.... I've been sooo busy at work its been ridiculous and I havn't had the time. Try finding time when your working every saturday in July and the 1st saturday in august... 5 saturdays in a row.. Then Vacation there after....It sucks to me atlease. But I'm makin money so I'm happy.

[NC_IslandRunner]

Those little clips come with the brake pads.... Did they check the Halogen levels in your headlights while you were there?

[Cable810]

Those little clips come with the brake pads.... Did they check the Halogen levels in your headlights while you were there?

They actually might have done that!!

[NC_IslandRunner]

They did, I've done my own brakes for over 10yrs and never heard of a caliper kit!

[fishsticks]

The shop called it the Caliper Kit. Yes I had to take it to the shop.... I've been sooo busy at work its been ridiculous and I havn't had the time. Try finding time when your working every saturday in July and the 1st saturday in august... 5 saturdays in a row.. Then Vacation there after....It sucks to me atlease. But I'm makin money so I'm happy.

Parents made you take it in huh?



Caliper BRACKET perhaps?

Code: Select all

2002 CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER 4.2L L6 : Brake/Wheel Hub : Caliper Bracket   Price
A-1 CARDONE Part # 141160
CARDONE Service Plus Caliper Bracket; Sold individually
  113.0' wheelbase; Front Left

$23.99
A-1 CARDONE Part # 141162
CARDONE Service Plus Caliper Bracket; Sold individually
  113.0' wheelbase; Front Right

$23.99
A-1 CARDONE Part # 141159
CARDONE Service Plus Caliper Bracket; Sold individually
  129.0' wheelbase; Front Left

$23.99
A-1 CARDONE Part # 141161
CARDONE Service Plus Caliper Bracket; Sold individually
  129.0' wheelbase; Front Right

$23.99
A-1 CARDONE Part # 141148
CARDONE Service Plus Caliper Bracket; Sold individually
  Rear Left

$23.99
A-1 CARDONE Part # 141149
CARDONE Service Plus Caliper Bracket; Sold individually
  Rear Right

$23.99


Probably for stiff pins. Those are regreasable BTW, and only need replacing if they are broken or you are upgrading to EXT brakes.