Transmission Linkage Broke

[themightysteveo]

So the GF was driving the TB today and I got a call that the truck was in Park but rolled down a hill, brakes didn't work because key was not in ignition but emergency brake stopped truck. Thankfully no one was hurt and no other vehicles were damaged.

When I arrived my truck was sitting on an incline, behind it a parking lot. The shifter was in Park but the truck said Reverse, thus she would not start. I tried applying the break and pressing forcefully on the shift knob to no success. I tried disconnecting the negative battery lead to see if a hard reset would fool the truck? Nothing.


So, I took off e-brake and coasted down the little incline into an abandoned parking lot and called a tow company. After talking to the idiot dispatcher, I had a thought! The drivers (of the flat beds) always manually shift cars into Neutral before towing them. I got under the truck and saw the black plastic connection hanging freely away from the transmission linkage lever.... When I pushed it forward (toward the front of the truck) it clicked loudly. I got out from under and put key in ignition.... Success, truck in park and started.

So, had GF press brakes and shifted into drive and drove it home. Then had her on brakes again and manually put back in park.


And this is where I am at now. A local mechanic says it's 251 USD to fix and no auto parts store has a replacement?


Anyone had this problem or have any ideas?looks like I could zip-tie it back on easily temporarily? It looks like a pin or bushing that would hold it on the lever is missing everything else is in tact....

[Trail X]

Mike had this problem once. I'm curious how he fixed it.

[bartonmd]

Mike had this problem once. I'm curious how he fixed it.

Mine had just popped off... I got under there and moved the selector on the transmission to the same place that the shifter on the console said, and popped it back on... Sounds like his actually broke?

I was beginning to get a little nervous about it, though, until I saw that it had just popped off... Being a mountain away from any store or anything, and it's Saturday night, so no dealers open, and it's getting dark...

Mike

[themightysteveo]

Mine popped off too but when I pop it back on it doesn't feel secure. Nothing looks broke like I said it just feels/looks like it's missing a retention pin or something? I'll try and get pictures tonight when I get off work.

[The Roadie]

Glad to hear nobody hurt or property damaged. Sure points out why the ebrake should ALWAYS be working and regularly tested. Good for ya!

Now about getting your GF to the gym so she can stop the vehicle without power brakes......

I've always said that they should not sell 9000 pound Caddys to tiny people who couldn't steer them if the power steering broke.

[bartonmd]

Nope, it's just a snap fit... It's reasonably loose while it's on there, but the snap fit interference just keeps it on...

Mike

[themightysteveo]

Nope, it's just a snap fit... It's reasonably loose while it's on there, but the snap fit interference just keeps it on...

Mike

Sorry these are cell pics under truck with flash light

1st pic is the lever off transmission, 2nd is the linkage from the cable, 3rd is the first two mated (and yes, it snaps with audible *click*), 4th is open side of the mated pair of which I feel a piece is missing.

With the pieces reassembled, I turned the ignition to aux but not run. Then shifted as normally, with full brakes and chocks, from park to drive to reverse back to drive and nothing.... Damn thing separated again. If it comes loose that easily after being reattached, it's obviously broken.

Just in case this was my conclusion, I made some phone calls today. The GF's grandfather has a mechanic buddy who quoted me $251.00 to replace. My certified GM dealer quoted $361.00 to replace. No auto part store has the cable but the GM dealership, when I called pretending to be a mechanic, said the cable cost $80.00 plus tax and shipping (unless picked up locally).

I have a Haynes manual somewhere in my storage locker and will research how much of a pain it will be to do myself and just buy the cable from my GM dealer. Otherwise, I'll see what that mechanic friend of my GF's grandfather will do if I buy from GM or whatever???

[themightysteveo]

Just to close this loop; I purchased the transmission linkage cable for the truck from my local Chevrolet dealer for 89.03 plus Florida sales tax.

I was not able to take pictures as I do not have a camera and lost my phone at the ball game last night

However, the replacement of this cable was a HUGE PITA!

Step 1: Using a star shaped screw driver remove the retention screw from the shift mechanism and just lift the shift knob and boot from the console.

Step 2: Remove the center console. There are six Phillips head screws and two 7mm hex bolt screws. When you lift the center console off the floor board you must disconnect a set of wires that control your rear air and 12v system. This is a weird connection that requires you to 'swing' the clip over the assembly instead of 'squeezing'. It's relatively easy to disconnect and reconnect later.

Step 3: Remove the fabric piece that extends from dash to console. This has one Phillips head screw on each side for a total of two. It also has two clips in the center that snap right out.

Step 4: Separate the snap link from the ball linkage shift. Then the cable bracket should come free easily.

Step 5: This was the PITA... I had to cut my carpet as I saw no other way to follow the cable? I cut the carpet from center line behind the center console under the dash; that way it would be hidden. Then I peeled the carpet down from the steering column and cut line to the seat. There are several foam blocks under the carpet but the only cable under the carpet is the shift cable. It follows straight to the center of the driver's side floor board.

Step 6: From under the truck. The snap link was broken so it was hanging free. The cable went to a bracket that required needle nose pliers to release. There were clips on either side that required depression. Once loosed, The cable needs to be backed off to a narrower area and slid out from the bottom of the bracket. The bracket is "C" shaped that is very narrow on the bottom, you'll see how to back it out.

Step 7: Push the cable "UP" into the cab of the truck. The rubber grommet pushes up into the cable and out. The rest of the cable goes freely.

Step 8: From the cab... Pull the cable from the center console bracket and discard it. Take the new cable and feed it through the center console. Attach the snap link to the ball joint and bracket to bracket.

Step 9: Feed the rest of the cable through the hole in the floor board to the rubber grommet. When the grommet is at the hole push firmly into the hole and set it.

Step 10: Back from under the truck... Feed the cable to the rear of the truck then loop back to front. There is a black snap/clip that pushes into a hole in the under carriage. Then the cable gets fed into the "C" bracket skinny end first and pulled forward (towards the engine) until it snaps in.

Step 11: There is another snap clip that just snaps onto the ball joint of the manual transmission linkage arm. Then there's a grey piece on the cable that needs to be pressed down to secure and snug the cable. Then a black slide gets pushed over the grey one to secure that.

Step 12: Replace the carpet.

Step 13: Replace the center console.

Step 14: Enjoy a Beer, you're done!