Rear Control Arm idea

[JHogg419]

So it is 1:13 am at work and I have been here for 10 hours and I had an idea....I am a novice in this area of car building so please be nice.

I have been working on my dad's Ford 9N tractor lately and I have been stairing at the rear hydraulic unit all week thinking. The back end has four "guides" of sort that look just like the rear control arms made by Massive Speed. They by no means are the same quality as Massive but the same style. So here is my idea. I feel like these rods are used to help lift large grass shredders or a number of other attachments. Why could we not use them for our rear control arms. It would not be an upgrade to strength perhaps (even though I think it would) but it was at least give us a way to make adjustments for the lifts. Here locally they sell them at tractor supply on the shelf in a number of sizes and length. They are bare steel but a rattle can can change that and it would not cost the 400 dollars or so that Massive Speed set is. It is a more budget friendly idea. I am not sure the grade of steel used in the long shafts of them (the equivelant of the the purple part on the Massive Speed ones) but I know that they are used to pick up 1000's of pounds of weight on tractors and the joint move constantly when in use.

So does anyone have any experience with tractors to know what I am talking about or what are ya'lls thoughts? Please educated answers only. If you say no it will not work, please explain why. Thanks in advance.


Edit: Forgot to mention that I have used these before on my Cobalt SS I had as traction bars for the front. It completely eliminated wheel hop and I used to knock the crap out of them due to the car being dropped 4 inches. I kepted them on four 6 years before I grew to old to drag race.

[v7guy]

Without a link to the item you're speaking of, the joint would be my biggest concern. If it's not at the correct angle the bushing will be in a bind through its movement and that will be a problem. You'll notice that the stock rear arms are angled at the joints, that's important outside of using a rod end style joint.

[Chango]

I think he's talking something like this...

https://store.strasser-hardware.com/ine ... _full_site

[JHogg419]

I will try to get by tractor supply this week for a pic. I wasn't sure if any of ya'll had any tractor experience to know what I am talking about. The end links have full pivot joints. I believe some are greasable. They are used to help raise and lower the tractor attachments like post hole diggers and shredders. Ill get a picture this week. I just got off of my second 16 hour shift and I got one more tonight here in the ER.

[ErikSS]

I grew to old to drag race.

Sad. Oh, so sad. I'm really sorry you feel that way. hahaha I sure hope I never get that old!

I've often wondered the same thing. I would think the strength to be plenty strong with tractor 4 links. In addition to what v7guy said, my concern is that the ends aredry joints. They are not greased.

Those issues aside, I'm also curious how they would work/last.

[navigator]

I'm not familiar with the 4pt hitch but am familiar with the 3pt hitch.
With the 3 pt hitch the two bottom arms are many times fixed and the top center one is adjustable at each end to fine tune the angle of the attachment.

If he is talking about what I am thinking of it is the same concept as Barton's DIY end links on a larger scale. You would have Heim joints on each end that screw into a threaded pipe to give adjustment.

[JCrayton99]

A friend of mine has used them as a building block for ladder bars for his diesel truck for tractor pulls. (if built right) they would be more than strong enough for rear control arms. Its just the fact that you would basically have to cutoff the end links and build new tubes for them that would clear everything (they are quite bulky) and at that point, why not just start from scratch?

[The Roadie]

As I see it, the only reasons for adjustable control arms are to move the axle back to fit 35's and to adjust the pinion angle for really big lifts.

Putting those two goals together and including the cost of the tires, plus a breakage fund because 35's on the front is going to create carnage, is a $2500+ sort of project.

It is certainly useful to look at and discuss innovative alternatives, but if the $200 you might save by using tractor parts is the deciding factor in whether or not you go to 35's, you might be underestimating the cost/benefit equation.

Just my opinion, YMMV.

[JHogg419]

I appreciate all the comments so far.

The Roadie

I was bringing this up because of two reasons. I am very anal when it comes to appearances. I will only be running 32s on my envoy but I like to have my axle centered. I do not want to have to cut up the body if I dont have too. Also, it just looks better to me. Secondly, for you all, I know many of you run with spare parts. I was thinking this would be a low cost up front addition to add to your spare parts bin for your trip. Not everyone can afford an extra set of Massive before a big trip. No, it is not the same quality but I feel it could get you home so you can order exactly what you need.

JCrayton99

I was thinking that they would have enough room to fit, in my opinion of course. I have not tried them. As for starting from scratch. I just do not have the tools needed to do something like this from scratch available to me. I would love to make them from scratch. I take pride in building my own parts instead of buying them. My dad was an old drag racer from the 60's and he taught me that its better to be Built not Bought. There is more pride. Stupid I know but it was my upbringing so it is stuck in my head.

ErikSS
I was worried about the end links being nongreasable. I have looked at a lot of pictures of the Massive system and I have not seen a grease fitting on theirs. In my head, I thought the work a tractor does to them is far worse than what I would do personally. I know many of you do a lot more hard core off roading then I ever will. I just want a good versitle offroad vehicle to go hunting and fishing and take my family camping. I am not going to hammer them very hard. for added strength I was planning in my head to weld an extra nut on each end of the shaft to give the threads more to grab a hold too.

navigator

You are exactly on point to what I am talking about.


Keeping the talk going. It helping me figure out how to make this work for myself. You guys have far more knowledge than me. I just wish some of you northerns knew more about tractors and farm equipment to know what I am talking about.

[The Roadie]

...I am very anal when it comes to appearances. ...it just looks better to me....

We're going to have to agree to disagree, then. I submit that when you're on a trail ride of the sort I enjoy, there are times where a tie rod or brake failure could send you down a 6000 foot dropoff without a snap decision. And you have to be instantly able to decide to turn the truck into a rock face to save your bacon, or hit your trail buddy in the ass end and hope HE can stop you. Any hesitation about what the truck is going to look like after that needs to be weeded out of your thinking before that ride. I ask that anybody on a ride with me declares in advance that their truck's appearance won't be a consideration.

[JHogg419]

Well of course in a bad situation like the ones you have described, appearance is out the window. Safety is always above appearance.

[TBYODA]

I just wish some of you northerns knew more about tractors and farm equipment to know what I am talking about.

A picture may have helped with your description of what you were talking about. Not all of us "northerns" grew up in the city.

[JHogg419]

I just wish some of you northerns knew more about tractors and farm equipment to know what I am talking about.

A picture may have helped with your description of what you were talking about. Not all of us "northerns" grew up in the city.

That was for my grandpa. He tried to tell me anything north of Dallas was yankee. By no means do I agree with him but he was funny none the less

[Chango]

I guess my link didn't take you to the pic I was trying to show, just the storefront...I believe this is what is being talked about

[navigator]

that is what I was talking about.

The ones I am familiar with would likely rattle like a loose shock. I'm sure you could find some that were more refined and the right bushing combination to make it work.

Also keep in mind that while the lower control arm looks to be straight, the upper control arm is angled toward the driveshaft several degrees.

[JHogg419]

Cool. I think it has answered my questions. I think I dont want to try for the control arms themselves but I think after the lift I will try the panhand bar and see how it goes. Thanks everyone.