I know this place is not very busy these days but I figured I put these here for others.
If you want to fit a true 32" tire without going crazy with lifts and spacers that this is for you.
255/75R17 is a VERY common Stock Jeep size which do fit well on our stock 17x7 wheels. problem is everyone is saying you need a 2" lift and 1.5" spacers to run anything over a 30.6" tire. This is bullshit, you just need to do a little work to get it done.
In order to run a 0.5" spacer you will need to put longer studs in your hubs and axles. In the front you can get away with running Dorman 610-323 wheel studs which are 54m or 2" long. Stock wheel studs for us are 42mm or just over 1.5" long. This will let you put a 1/2" HUB CENTRIC spacer easily. In the rear you will want to run 1" spacers on either side to correct for the fact that the rear track width is 1" shorter than the front. 63.1" front and 62.1" rear. I recommend getting some cheap 1" hub centric spacers and removing the studs. then you can replace the rear axle stock wheel studs with 2.5" studs like Moser Engineering, Inc. 8255 WHEEL STUDS . This will let you bolt everything up without having bolt on spacers which freak me out lol.
MY 2008 Trailblazer LT has retail Monroe quick struts on it, the springs on these at very light duty and sit low on a 4x4 truck, especially after almost 4 years on. I put some 1/2" spacer above the strut to level it back out and even then it’s under 33" from ground to fender which is pretty much stock. I do plan one lifting a little but I am not going crazy, i rather get 1.25" of tire lift from the 32.1" tires.
Crazy thing is its BARLY RUBS on the front inner fender and that it, you could easily pull the inner fender forward and it would not hit. I'M probably going to throw on all the tires with just this mod to start then once weather get warmer, throw on some 5100s with stock springs and a small lift. I am just showing what is possible here because the dogma here is just wrong.
The reason this works is that I am not using a huge spacer pushing the wheel out. That increases the swing of the wheel while turning and makes it hit everything along the way.
Here are some photos of the 255/75r17 on a stock wheel and sitting on the truck with the 0.5" spacer:
Statistics: Posted by jerflash — Sat Mar 09, 2024 8:29 pm
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Statistics: Posted by flyboy2610 — Wed May 11, 2022 6:48 pm
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Statistics: Posted by jdyonker — Mon May 09, 2022 2:16 pm
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It's important to get the proper spacers for your application. 1st and foremost: get HUB-centric spacers! These center themselves using the 'ring' on the wheel hub, as compared to LUG-centric spacers which use the wheel studs to center the spacer. It's very difficult to get lug-centric spacers to balance properly, and the imbalance contributes to early failure.
For on-road use, get machined aluminum spacers. Do not buy steel spacers for road use! The reason is that steel is much heavier than aluminum, and that mass rotating at highway speeds can shear you wheel studs off! Steel is ideal for low speed, high stres applications such as a dedicated rock crawler which is trailered to and from the trail. For street use, you want aluminum.
So, a good set of quality machined aluminum spacers, properly installed and maintained, will cause you no issues at all.
Statistics: Posted by flyboy2610 — Sun Feb 13, 2022 10:42 am
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Statistics: Posted by Davismark — Wed Oct 20, 2021 11:09 pm
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