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by SmokeyMcBlazer » Wed Nov 19, 2014 1:53 pm

Hey all,

As some might know, I got in on the MarkMc body lift buy. I also threw in a suspension lift and wheel adaptors as well. That was a long time ago lol. I also grabbed the skyjacker shocks for the rear, which also have been waiting patiently in the spare bedroom. I'm not incredibly mechanically inclined so the install by me was gonna be out of the question.

I've been calling around from shop to shop for quotes (which are all over the place!) for a while. Today I posted on a local 4x4 clubs FB page (I've met some of the guys through being on the atv clubs board), asking about a mechanic or shop recommendation. Well, turns out one of the guys from my atv club (who also knows the 4x4 club guys) is a mechanic! He messaged me and offered to do the lifts on an upcoming weekend just before Christmas!

The biggest bonus for me is that I can go and help do the install and learn more about my truck and how its put together. Gonna be awesome!

With all that being said, are there any other parts I'll need to get? I have the longer shocks for the back, I'm assuming the same stock front shocks will be fine in the front? Basically, if there are any other incompatible stock parts to the MarkMc 3inch body and MarkMc 3inch suspension lift (ie panhard, end links, etc)

Thanks everyone.
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by Grimor » Wed Nov 19, 2014 2:12 pm

There might be things that you want to replace/upgrade down the road, but all of that should just install and run as is.
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by DirtyBacon04 » Wed Nov 19, 2014 2:25 pm

it would be a good idea to replace the front shocks now, when the springs are compressed.
I don't know about any of you all, but compressing the springs is my least favorite part.
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by SmokeyMcBlazer » Wed Nov 19, 2014 2:44 pm

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm stoked to finally get this done. I was so very over looking at a pile of truck parts in the corner of my brewery. I'll post up some pics when it happens.
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by Trail X » Wed Nov 19, 2014 3:37 pm

It may also make sense to get new upper shock bushings for the front (depending on which lift you got) and flip your UCAs.
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by TBYODA » Wed Nov 19, 2014 3:48 pm

Which skyjacker shocks did you get? You do need longer shocks in the back.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Wed Nov 19, 2014 4:22 pm

Front struts is a pretty good idea. You wont want to do that job too often.
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by SmokeyMcBlazer » Wed Nov 19, 2014 4:53 pm

Trail X wrote:It may also make sense to get new upper shock bushings for the front (depending on which lift you got) and flip your UCAs.


I got the original 3inch lift, pretty sure it comes with new upper bushings. I had planned on flipping the uca's also, thanks for the reminder though


TBYODA wrote:Which skyjacker shocks did you get? You do need longer shocks in the back.


They're the n8030's I think. Pretty sure you're the one who let me know about the need for the longer shocks and about the skyjackers back when...


HARDTRAILZ wrote:Front struts is a pretty good idea. You wont want to do that job too often.


The thing with the front struts is- I got the truck from my dad and just before he gave it to me he put new struts in the front so I kinda wanted to get some use outta them before ditching them for something better.

Thanks again for the replies and suggestions peeps! I've been searching out a set of used 265/70/17 tires local on kijiji all afternoon (damned 3.42 rear end). Its the only thing I don't have yet. I'm gonna get the Interco Trxus M/T's new in the new year but since the lifting got bumped up to soon, I'll need something for the interm.
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by navigator » Wed Nov 19, 2014 6:46 pm

if i remember right the rear bumper on the driver side there is a bolt that is a pain to get to.
If you install the body lift pucks first, I think that it would make it easier to get to that bolt.
If I recall, the instructions(at least from Zone) have you remove the rear bumper first.
You might have to remove the bumper cover etc before you add the lift pucks.

Also, if you install the BL first, I think the UCA bolts are easier to get to.
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by Grimor » Wed Nov 19, 2014 8:16 pm

This is how I had to get to the Bumper bolt. Driver side. A wrench, 4x4 and jack...
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by Diacom » Wed Nov 19, 2014 9:15 pm

Congrats on finding someone who'll help you learn as you do this.

I'll also jump on the band wagon on the front struts. If they aren't at least the Bilstein HD's, pull em while your doing the front suspension. you can always sell the ones you have beings they are low miles and not lose much.

You'll have to decide if you want to cut your rear frame to use the BL rear brackets or not and raise the rear bumper as well. It's not really a big deal, but something to keep in mind.

Be sure to get the radiator line adapter for your trans cooler for your install. It will make it easier to do.

Otherwise, Good luck.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Wed Nov 19, 2014 9:18 pm

Run the new struts. May as well get some miles from em.
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by SmokeyMcBlazer » Wed Nov 19, 2014 9:59 pm

Grimor wrote:This is how I had to get to the Bumper bolt. Driver side. A wrench, 4x4 and jack...

Crazy!


And there it is...

Diacom wrote:trans cooler.



I knew I was forgetting something, I need to get one of those. Not too interested in melting the tranny. Thanks bro!
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by vaTBguy » Wed Nov 19, 2014 10:24 pm

I agree with hardtrailz, run the new struts. At least the nuts won't be seized up and they shouldn't be seized in the yolks. Once you have compressed the springs once and know how to do it you will have no problem doing it again if you want better struts.
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by v7guy » Thu Nov 20, 2014 1:33 pm

If they're new I wouldn't replace the struts either, it'll look a little goofy with a body lift and 32s, but it'll leave you plenty of room for better gearing and tires in the future. Id retain the stock springs to prevent issues with front shocks and make sure you get that trans cooler, I'd also throw a thermostat inline to make sure you don't overcool the trans in the winter, if we had problems overcooling it here in NY I'm sure you'll have the same issues in Canada.
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by SmokeyMcBlazer » Fri Nov 21, 2014 8:13 am

Thanks again for the responses guys! Once I get the lifts on, re-gearing or diff swapping is next on the list. Only thing with that is, because I have an 02, I can't reprogram the speedo I think? Does that mean that I'd have a check engine light on all the time? I think I've read that somewhere, possibly I can PCM tune that out?
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by Cable810 » Fri Nov 21, 2014 10:27 am

You wont have a check engine light if you swap gears. You'll get a ABS light and Parking Break Light. It wont be on all the time it sort of comes and goes.
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by Trail X » Fri Nov 21, 2014 2:16 pm

Caleb, just pull the ABS J fuse. ABS doesn't work anyway, so by pulling the fuse, you no longer get the periodic alert and you get cruse control back. The abs and brake lights will remain on until they burn out though.
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by SmokeyMcBlazer » Sun Nov 23, 2014 11:07 am

Went out to see my buddy last night. He's got a great 3 bay garage stocked with every tool imaginable in his backyard! Also a very nice lifted dodge truck that he built the body lift for himself. He had a look at the truck and the paperwork that comes from Mark with the lifts and we figured to put the body lift on first and do the suspension during another session. I should be heading out there on the 21st to do the body.

He was asking about whether or not the kit came with a gas filler neck extension or replacement though. I said that I was pretty sure that everything needed came with the kit. Anyone know if I'm right? I'll probably dig it all out later to check.
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by Diacom » Sun Nov 23, 2014 11:09 am

Rob, you do not need a filler neck extension. There is a 10mm bolt (I may be wrong on this size, but it's on the frame) you remove that allows enough flex for the filler neck. Some have built a bracket to help stabilize the hose, but otherwise, nothing is needed.
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