Gordinho80's Offroad / Camping Trailer Build

[Gordinho80]

Spring is around the corner. Time to start working on the trailer again.

I'm pretty much decided on making the box pictured above into a combination power/storage box.



I am going to divide the box into 2 sections. 1 side will house the battery and the fuse box, perhaps my power inverter as well. The other side will be used for storage.

I am going to keep the 4 wire harness for now, as I don't have brakes on the trailer. On the truck side, I will be running a 0 AWG wire from my battery to the rear of the truck where I will place a distribution block with an ANL fuse to a 4 AWG wire capped with an anderson plug. I am not running a ground from the battery to the plug, I will instead ground the anderson plug at the rear frame. On the trailer side, I am going to run an anderson plug with 4 AWG to the battery, which will also have a fuse. What is the proper way to ground at that point? Do I run the anderson to the battery? To the frame of the trailer?

I am going to use the rear anderson plug on the truck to power the winch as well, when needed back there.

Any glaring issues with my plan?

[fishsticks]

If you are using the frame as a ground, make sure the battery-frame ground wire is bigger than your hot wire at the plug.

I would probably just run a 0 AWG ground all the way back, if it was my rig.

[Gordinho80]

I'm going to run the anderson plug to the battery terminal. I am also going to run a length of 0 AWG from battery to the frame.

[Gordinho80]

Picked up the water tank today! 24 gal tank that was taken out of tow behind in order to upgrade to a larger tank. Works for me!!!

Going to mount it inside the trailer towards the front... or section off the tongue box and mount it in there. I'd seal the battery side in case of tank failure. I'm actually liking this idea as I could mount the heater on the lid of the box above the tank! MMMM

[Gordinho80]

Should have the 4x6" angle this weekend.

[Gordinho80]

Possible water tank location.

I'd have enough room on the other side of the box to mount the battery and fuse panel...



I would drill out the back of the box on the side to place the fill up location. Small piece of hose running inside to a 90* elbow into the tank.





I would mount the pump in front of the tank itself. Very little wiring required. The Eccotemp would mount to the lid of the box, so that when open, it is upright. Would just need to run a hose to the kitchen. I would probably put a spigot underneath the fill point, also on the back side of the box.

[Trail X]

Planning to cut down the 4x6 angle? 6" seems too long.

Otherwise, I like the water tank plan.

[Gordinho80]

4" length would be the horizontal. The cap would hang over the 4x6. I am going to gusset the angle so that it is not just an open piece of angle. Also, the rear section of the angle will house the taillights... its hard to explain. I just have to get the material and go to town!

[Trail X]

Oh ok. So the 4" will stick out horizontally, and the 6" will hang down, creating a 4x6 box on each side? I like it.

[onelow1ton]

Looking good , in to see the spring/summer updates

[Gordinho80]

Oh ok. So the 4" will stick out horizontally, and the 6" will hang down, creating a 4x6 box on each side? I like it.

Not a BOX, per say... the green reflects the Angle... I would use flat stock or sheet metal to skin it.

[v7guy]

could also cut a strip out of the the top and glass it back together. It's relatively easy and would keep it a smidge narrower to help keep it from smacking things. I don't suppose it would take any longer than welding in those triangles the length of the trailer

[Conner299]

Why not build straight down from, from the sides of the topper to the wheel wells? Possibly increase side storage or sleeping space? Or would that just be too much hassle?

[Gordinho80]

Jason, do you know how to mess with fiberglass? I've actually thought about doing that as well. I've never worked with fiberglass and I wouldn't really know where to start. I want to make sure it remains waterproof.

Ed, that is an interesting idea. Redoing the walls would be too much hassle, but making side "compartments" is a valid idea. I could use them to house smaller things, perhaps some tools, shovel, axe, hilift. I'm going to look into that, actually. I have a full sheet of 1/8" steel sitting in my shed along with some smaller angle.

[Trail X]

Agh, flip that green angle over! Think trapezoid!

[Gordinho80]

I GOT IT!!! This goes back to an idea that JD gave me originally as well. I guess I just need to see it to really appreciate it...









Side boxes running the length of the trailer. They would start at the top frame and run all the way down to the top portion of the fender. I'm thinking 4x6 angle might be a little too much for a box frame, though. What about heavy duty plywood boxes? Would be a little easier to cut out and put together. Alternatively, I can get some smaller angle to make the frame out of? Only reason I'm doubting the 4x6 as a frame is because it would be about 13' on each side of 3/8" thick 4x6 angle! Thats a lot of weight

[Diacom]

Make your frames for the weight support, then use aluminum panels to fill.

[Trail X]

Do you have access to sheeting that might be lighter? Something like 10 gauge would be plenty with a little gusseting. 3/8 is insanity.

I'd bet that your plywood box with angle frame would end up being heavier than a light gauge steel box.

[Conner299]

Something else to possibly look into... A fairing for the front of that big ol' air scoop... Sorry, I mean topper. Something possibly that flips up to give access to the tool box. Just an idea.

[Gordinho80]

Ok... So I've been talking to neighbor (who has been my steel supplier for this whole project)... Looking at the following...

Option 1:
4x6" angle ran along the top of the trailer frame front to back. I would run the 6" length horizontally to get a deeper box, more suitable for shovel, ax, hilift... Then, take the sheet steel I have which is like 3/16" I think, and cut 2 8" strips lengthwise. Notch and bend to make like a 6" C Channel, then bend and weld that to form a 16"x63"x16" U shape. This would be the sides and bottom of the box. I would use the rear flanges to bolt and weld it to the trailer frame. Then I would just need to make doors. The remaining piece of sheet steel would be enough to make 2 16" tall doors that I would get some smaller tube to frame.

Option 2:
He's checking to see if he can get me some thinner walled C channel, 6" wide, which I would make the entire box frame out of. It would be strong enough to support the cap, lighter than using the 4x6 all around, and less work than notching and bending flanges in sheet steel. I would still make the doors out of sheet steel and smaller tube.

I'm leaning toward option 2, to be honest. Hopefully I can get some thinner C to use.

Ed, I plan on making a thin plywood or plexi fairing for the front of the trailer. I would put some pin tabs at the top of the cap where I would secure the top of the fairing to. I would also put a couple of tabs in the tool box as well. While driving, the fairing would be locked into these tabs. Once at camp, I would remove pins and store the fairing inside the trailer, probably along the top of the cap with tabs up on the ceiling.