v7guy wrote:Don't reckon you got her all buttoned up do ya?
Any tips or tricks you discovered to make things go smoothly for the uninitiated?
Yup, its in
Tips/tricks....? Hmmm....nothing really too bad, other than the exhaust downpipe. Kind of a PITA to get at the three nuts that hold it on....and I luckily didnt snap any studs. I *did* end up having a stud come out rather than the nut come off....but that was an easy replacement. I also replaced the flanged nuts with stainless....and a glob of anti-seize, just so if there is a next time.... Oh, I also snapped the studs off on the converter to rear pipe connection. The studs on the rear section are like wheel studs, as they are "pressed in/knurled". I had to hammer out the old ones with a drift, then I drilled out the holes to accept a 12mm bolt. Problem solved.
The two top bolts on the trans were tough to get to, ONLY becuase the AC/Heater(?) pipe crossover is bolted to both of them, AND the plastic circle retainers to hold the vents pipes are right in the way. I fought with these, which isnt easy to do when its sitting 2 feet away down a tunnel. I did pick up a "Big Larry" LED flashlight at NAPA. It has a magnetic base and is bright as hell. SUPER useful to light up the tunnel as I was working up there. Seriously one of the best time savers/convenience items Ive bought in a while. Its big advantage over a typical work/trouble light is that it is so compact....doesnt get in the way in the limited space area.
Id also suggest to ALWAYS replace the cooler lines as well, as long as you are in there. The stock ones corrode prety easily, and a few years back, mine actually broke through and sprayed fluid everywhere. I replaced with a section of teflon lined rubber hose, but that was always in the back of my mind that this was half ass. The new lines were cleaned and clearcoated....so lets hope they last this time. Picked up a full set (4pcs) at Rockauto, along with new transmission fittings and a package of the clips those connectors use. They should be replaced any time you remove them, and the two on the radiator are the only remaining fittings. They worked well. Put assembly lube on the lines....any where that they slide into the connectors. It helps to keep the orings from getting scuffed and creating a leak.
The converter bolts are a PITA to get to. Not like an old 350/400 trans with the dust cover on the bottom of the trans. There is a small hole in the back of the oil pan you can fit a socket through to get to them. I used loctite on them, and the trans to adapter and adapter to tcase bolts as well.
One small pointer....when you are removing the crossmember that holds the whole thing up....the front to back bolts (as opposed to the four small bolts you can see from the bottom of it) on the drivers side are tough to get out with the ABS pump right there, the most outer of the two especially. To make it simple to get back in.....I ground the flange flat with ONE of the flats on the bolt....slid right back in upon install.
Get a new downpipe doughnut as well, as you dont want this to leak and have to go back in. I also took this opportunity to change the rear O2 sensor, the Tcase seals, and the output shaft bushing in the rear. SIMPLE stuff to get to when you have it all apart...PITA if you have to go back in later. OH YES.....one other item. The Tcase to adapter gasket. You are NOT supposed to use RTV, per the shop manual, to replace, or use in addition to this gasket. I went to pick one up at NAPA...closest one was in Wisconsin, and wouldnt be in until Tuesday. Went to the local Carquest regional warehouse, which has everything....EXCEPT this gasket. Same deal.....couldnt get in until this week sometime. Everyone had the 6 bolt version for the Silverado type Tcase....nobody (local) had the 5 bolt from the Trailblazer. The shop manual said to replace this gasket IF it tears.....LOL......of course it tore upon removal. Thankfully the place I bought the trans from had one, and I picked it up Friday
That's it. If you ever pulled a tans before, nothing special about this one....take your time, and its just a matter of unbolting and replacing items.