Long travel IFS

[v7guy]

Took it for a quick test drive the other day. Gonna have to trim the bumper since the tires hit it while turning, was also having trouble getting good pedal feel on the brakes, it would stop, but the pedal was mush. Ended up swapping to a hydroboost setup off the 2500hd Silverado to match the rear axle/calipers/etc. Was going to do a write up for it, but I think it involves too much fab to be a viable option for most people.

Test driving it has been pretty fun. It's pretty peppy with 5.13s, gonna be hard to be gentle for the gear break in.
Still got to build some fenders, wire up the compressor for the locker, install some new headlights, fix the remote start, etc etc etc the list, it's never ending.

[Jrgunn5150]

I lul everytime I see your truck, it's looking great!

[v7guy]

Thanks man, Moots was giving me a hand the other day and commented "you know, it really doesn't look that crazy". From the comments I get elsewhere I think him and I are just used to it. Hell, the 37s don't even look that big to me anymore.

[Jrgunn5150]

It doesn't look that crazy for the Furious 9 or whatever they're on lol. It totally looks like it could stick the landing from a plane .

37's look right, it looks like you have the ground clearance you should for the wheelbase. Are you going to make fiberglass fender's?

[v7guy]

Hahahahahahaha, I built it to take at least 40s, so I suspect at some point I'll go bigger.

I've a good amount of experience with composites, I've got a couple hundred yards of fiberglass here, but I think I'll probably just do some metal fenders. I've got some tube here and I figure I'll go from the slider to the front bumper, then some sheet metal from the tube to the stock fender edges. I assume the fender will probably hit shit a lot, so tube makes the most sense. Straight fiberglass probably wouldn't be long for this world.

I might sculpt something nifty later to go from the fender attachment to the tube, But I'm focused on other things at the moment.

[bartonmd]

Glad to see you went hydroboost, after all! Brakes feel good now? Using your stock pump?

Mike

[v7guy]

Yup, brakes feel better than they ever did stock. Using the stock power steering pump, unaltered, and it appears everything works really really well.

Hydroboost ends needed brazed onto trailblazer lines, the return line for the hydroboost was tied into the return line on the power steering, the brake pedal needed modified and one stud on the hydroboost mounting plate had to be moved to match the firewall since there isn't a place on the firewall to drill... thank you GM for making our firewall oddly shaped. Other than that it was fairly plug and play.

[Moots1288]

Except everything needs to be fixed to fix and drill a hole and cut and re weld the pedal... but plug n play

[Jrgunn5150]

Except everything needs to be fixed to fix and drill a hole and cut and re weld the pedal... but plug n play

That's what I was thinking lol. Brazed, modified, moved, plug n play

[Rickalicka18]

Well couldn't you solder the brake lines instead of brazing them? Since brazing is not an easy thing to pick up...

[v7guy]

Well, it went together a lot easier than anything else on this build... LOL


Solder the brake lines? Hmmmmm, I dunno. Never heard of that one.

[Rickalicka18]

It wouldn't be as sturdy as brazing it but I feel like it could work. Might leak a lot... Idk...

[Jrgunn5150]

It wouldn't be as sturdy as brazing it but I feel like it could work. Might leak a lot... Idk...

I don't think it would leak, it would either work, or not work. If it didn't, you'd crash, and die, and we'd all lul at the guy who soldered his brake lines

[v7guy]

I would say you'd be best served by brazing or welding it. You could also adapt everything to AN power steering hose. They have the fittings for the pump and the hydroboost readily available. Any hydraulic place should be able to hook you up too, but at the end of the day brazing was cheaper. LOL

[Rickalicka18]

Touche Jr... That is why I stay away from touching my brake lines lol.

Brazing was definitely the way to go though Jason. I was just trying to explore other ideas since solder is super cheap to buy compared to buying braze.

[Moots1288]

I've never heard of soldering steel lines before. Soldering is way to brittle to be soldering brake lines. All the vibrations will crack a soldered joint, You wont find any shop to do that and put there name on it. I could be wrong, but that doesnt seem right to me.

The tensile strength of 15% silphos is 86,000psi and the tensile strength of Stay-Brite is 15,000psi

The Stay-brite is silver/soft solder and the Silphos is brazing, now thats the Solder and Brazing rods I use in my trade but the strength between the 2 will always be the same.

[ErikSS]

The brazing was for power steering lines, not brake lines.

[Moots1288]

I meant PS lines. Type-o sorry

[v7guy]

Well, after the O2 sensor died and I replaced that, and I raised the motor about 1/4" cause it would rub the diff in reverse, I get a horrible stumbling yesterday in another test drive and coil pack number 5 died. This thing seems pretty determined to not cooperate! LOL

[TBYODA]

Well, after the O2 sensor died and I replaced that, and I raised the motor about 1/4" cause it would rub the diff in reverse, I get a horrible stumbling yesterday in another test drive and coil pack number 5 died. This thing seems pretty determined to not cooperate! LOL

It's been comfy sitting in your driveway and doesn't want to move.