Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Custom Upper Control Arms

Any special projects involving a decent amount of fab work (bumpers, sliders, roof racks, etc)

by bartonmd » Fri Jan 17, 2014 11:00 am

TBYODA wrote:
bartonmd wrote: But yes, if you are on the hairy edge, lowering the wire speed actually lowers the current output, but makes the actual filler hotter, so it will penetrate better. Eta: More specifically, you adjust voltage with the dial, and the wire speed changes the current. More wire speed = more current. At the edge of a welders capability, it will usually have voltage but run out of current capacity, so you lower then wire speed in order to get the wire temperature hotter to penetrate deeper.
Pardon my ignorance but how does less current make the filler hotter? Sound backward. Just trying to understand. ;)


The higher the wire speed, the more times/second it touches the puddle (the more times/second it is directly shorting to the work), so the more current it carries (more fresh wire = cooler wire = less resistance), and the faster you travel.

The lower the wire speed, the longer the arc (heating up the base material and wire), the higher wire resistance (because the wire is hotter) the less current it carries, and the slower the travel speed, which gives it more time to heat up the base material.

Mike
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by TBYODA » Fri Jan 17, 2014 12:46 pm

Thanks Mike that really helps a lot and hopefully other newbie welders. I was kinda thinking something along the lines but still had a disconnect. Now I don't.:)
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by Anthony Hernandez » Sat Feb 22, 2014 5:46 pm

Ok as far as welding goes... The "weld" if properly fused/penetrated etc is done correctly will always be stronger than the material itself... That been said, there are several things to take into consideration...
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by ARC- » Mon Jul 14, 2014 2:18 am

Has any progress been made here?
It's late, and this is the bump in the night...
97x 5.3 LH6 ŘWD
SPRING LIFT ONLY ON 33"
Z71 springs!
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by v7guy » Mon Jul 14, 2014 2:44 am

Progress? What more do you want? They were built, installed and have been in service for more than 6 months! LOL
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by Trail X » Mon Jul 14, 2014 9:42 am

No real progress, but as Jason said, they have been holding up well. My eyeball alignment is fine so far. I'll probably get a professional alignment when I get new tires. The Johnny joints have been holding up well so far, they are still as stiff as the day they were put on, so that seems to indicate minimal bushing wear. I'm happy with them.
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by ARC- » Mon Jul 14, 2014 8:38 pm

That's the progress report right there. Thanks
97x 5.3 LH6 ŘWD
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by jhmeg2 » Thu Nov 27, 2014 1:16 am

What about making them out of tube? Just a "U" with it notched out for the pinch block? Then use hiem joints for the adjustability. Would this work?
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by v7guy » Fri Nov 28, 2014 1:22 am

That would work fine as well. I believe James just used plate for ease of fabrication.
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by Trail X » Fri Nov 28, 2014 4:44 am

That is correct, I have access to large cnc lasers, so it was easier for me to use plate than to get tube bent. Plus the plate is 100ksi, tube will be more like 30ksi generally.
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by Jrgunn5150 » Wed Jan 21, 2015 9:39 pm

I wonder if Camburg would bite on this?
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by Trail X » Wed Jan 21, 2015 10:04 pm

For 4 sales a year? Doubtful.
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by Jrgunn5150 » Wed Jan 21, 2015 10:10 pm

Well... You have a point there lol. However, sometimes product creates market. And with all the Colorado/Canyon/Trailblazer/Envoys out there... A decent coilover/uniball JJ upper arm rig might just spur sales? IDK, but it is their thing.
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by Trail X » Wed Jan 21, 2015 10:36 pm

We do have a coilover. I don't mean to discourage you. If you're on the market, by all means contact them. But make sure you're willing to pony up 600 at least.
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by Jrgunn5150 » Wed Jan 21, 2015 10:45 pm

Trail X wrote:We do have a coilover. I don't mean to discourage you. If you're on the market, by all means contact them. But make sure you're willing to pony up 600 at least.


Yes, I was referring to the Radflo's. I just meant if they built one and got some coverage it may give them some interest.

And if you don't mind, I would love to contact them regarding this
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by v7guy » Wed Jan 21, 2015 11:39 pm

I would probably approach a machine/Fab shop first, one that's local.
I have a couple local fellas that give me a hand since they have a mill and a TIG setup.
I generally bring them plans, pictures and drawings and we discuss what I'm looking for and then I come back in a few days. I've supplied jigs and the odd parts occasionally.
Going that route you'd probably get the best price and exactly what you want.
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by Jrgunn5150 » Wed Jan 21, 2015 11:44 pm

That's my plan B lol. I am a machinist, or I used to be anyway. But my welding skills border on nonexistent. For right now, it's all in my mind anyway lol.
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by roshirim » Mon Oct 24, 2016 12:12 pm

Mr. TRAIL X.
Do you have a copy of the CNC files or the drawing files those seems to be made in sketchup?

Or do you sell the control arms?
I need modify a little bit the mine due to a negative cam in mi truck.
and the alignment cannot be done.

So if you can share those files will be great.
Also if you have the part number for the JJ adapters.

Thank you in advance.
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by HARDTRAILZ » Mon Oct 24, 2016 12:29 pm

Offtopic a bit----but what is your lift? Everyone else can get aligned without custom control arms so your not being able to be done is odd.
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by larryk » Mon Oct 24, 2016 1:37 pm

Why doesnt somebody just heat up the current ball joint pinch mount and rebend it to make it flatter? Seems to be a simple solution to the ball joint angle issue (not the adjustability one though). I just did the flip with poly bushings, and got it aligned this Saturday. With a 3" spacer lift, the EXT springs (as I *have* an EXT), and Billstein's.....I was able to get it right in spec on caster/camber/toe. The ball joint angle, while not perfectly upright, is well within the range of motion expected of them.

FWIW, the poly bushings are smooth as silk, quiet (so far) and allow a good range of articulation.
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