Receiver-Mounted Tire/Fuel/Jack Swing-Out.

[bartonmd]

No, it'll be a tube through the receiver, slightly longer than the 2" tube is wide, so that it fits more snugly into the receiver, and so that I can tighten the through-bolt, and not crush the tubes, but to squeeze the DOM tube. That will hold it from twisting side to side, and hopefully, the one up through the bottom, toward the front of the vehicle, with the nut inside the receiver, will hold it from rocking up and down on bumps.

Mike

[Diacom]

Beings when I built my tire carrier, the receiver extension was solid, I was kinda boned on this method to keep it from wobbling.

What I ended up finally doing was take a few synthetic carpentry shims and knock them in on one side and the bottom. This has kept the wobble down as well as being something that will hold up for some time yet still come out if I need it too as it shouldn't swell with moisture.

[HARDTRAILZ]

Looks like a solid design.

[bartonmd]

Yesterday, on the vehicle:



This evening. I'm at right around 4 hours in it, right now.



I ended up adding 2" to the height, so I could get the bottom tube up to the height of the bumper, and so that I can make the round tubes go up at an angle with a bend at the end, vs. going over flat with a bend. Seems like this would help departure angles at the corners.

Mike

[Trail X]

No, it'll be a tube through the receiver, slightly longer than the 2" tube is wide, so that it fits more snugly into the receiver, and so that I can tighten the through-bolt, and not crush the tubes, but to squeeze the DOM tube. That will hold it from twisting side to side, and hopefully, the one up through the bottom, toward the front of the vehicle, with the nut inside the receiver, will hold it from rocking up and down on bumps.

Mike

I'm not sure that you'll get enough deformation of the receiver to properly clamp on that tube. Maybe you will, but you'd have to get your tolerances really tight on the tube.

Another option - weld a nut on the front-side of your 2" tube. So when your carrier is inserted into the receiver, you can crank down on a bolt that's hidden underneath the vehicle to tighten it all up.

If you're certain you'll get enough clamp force with your method, that's cool, just figured I'd offer up some other ideas.

[bartonmd]

I'm open to ideas, especially on that part!

I'm planning on the 5/8" through-tube being very tight in the receiver, so there has to be very little deformation to get it to tighten down.

I actually typed it wrong. I said the nut would be on the inside of the receiver, but what I meant was the nut would be on the inside of the 2" tube, toward the front of the vehicle.

Mike

[navigator]

looks sweet man, good work as always.

[Trail X]

The CBI carrier I had, had two nuts welded inside the 2" tube, on the left and right, centric to the pin hole. So the receiver had two bolts that threaded in, one from left, one from right. The one from the left was inserted first, and tightened down fully. The one from the right was then inserted, and it operated like a jam nut against the first screw. It worked great for the couple years I had it - never had to tighten it, and it never seemed to have any play.

That's the way I'd go. I just don't think you'll get enough deflection from your receiver to get it tight enough. I've been wrong before though. Even if it does work for you, it just won't be guaranteed to fit or work on other receivers or vehicles.

[bartonmd]

I have no doubt I'd get the 1/32-1/16" of deflection I need, with how much torque a 5/8" bolt will take. However, I'm not opposed to other means of fastening. So only the left side bolt was tight, and the other was just tight through its side, and tight up against the end of the left side bolt, but didn't actually bottom the head on the receiver?

Mike

[Gordinho80]

I did a similar set up to James' CBI carrier on the tire carrier I had. Only difference was that I did not have the nuts welded inside. I used a bar to hold the nut from spinning when tightening the bolts through the receiver.

Tighten one side all the way, then start threading the other side and tighten until it is snug. Mine held the entire time I had the carrier as well, Nice and solid!

Nice work so far, Mike. Always impressive!!

[bartonmd]

OK, so you bottomed out and snugged up the second bolt on the OEM receiver, right, not tip to tip with the other bolt, leaving a gap between the bolt head and the OEM receiver?

Mike

[Gordinho80]

Yes. I had to use washers on the outside of the receiver because The shortest grade 8s I could get locally were still a hair too long and they would hit each other. Added the washer on each bolt and it was perfect.

[Trail X]

If I recall, my second bolt did bottom out on the threaded end of the other bolt, acting to lock the first bolt in place - but either method would probably work fine. If not, simple to change.

[bartonmd]

Ok, cool. I'll probably do the washer o. The second bolt thing like Mario did, to and see what we see... I'm still going to do the one at the bottom, toward the front of the vehicle, as I'm sure it won't hurt.

Mike

[bartonmd]

Here we are, right now. Work-wise (minus the re-work taking the extra height out), I've probably got 11 hours or so in it. I started to do it quick and dirty, but then figured if I'm going to do it, I'm going to do it right.

I did the washered bolt thing like we talked about above, and it still had a little bit of up-down play in it. I put the bolt in from the bottom, toward the front of the vehicle, and it's pretty solid, now.

I'll post mounted pics, tomorrow.

[Trail X]

Looks sweet Mike. Looking forward to seeing it in person.

Any provisions for the license plate?

[bartonmd]

Yeah, the plate will go under the fuel can, on the stationary lower tube, and the bottom will be bolted to the round tube. I'm waiting until after powdercoat to drill/tap the holes, so I don't get water/acid solution inside the tubes during the cleaning process. I'm just going to put a bolt in the gas strut hole in the tube, because I had to do it before PC, so I could weld the tab on the upper arm. It's going to get a plate light that plugs into the trailer connector, as well.

Mike

[bartonmd]

Here it is. I mounted the plate about halfway through, so it's not in all of them. I figured that if I was going to drive around and test it before paint, I figured I might as well have a plate showing. Also, I've got the can strapped in, instead of chain/latched, because the chain isn't done yet.







Here, you can see the safety latch behind the latch. This can be a padlock or a carabiner.







I didn't get a close-up, but here is what I did on the jack mounting, like the last hi-lift mount on a bumper that I did:

[rz03LTZ]

How much and when can I order one?

[v7guy]

Seriously? lol
He's backlogged for 9 months or better.