Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Homemade radiator skid plate

Any special projects involving a decent amount of fab work (bumpers, sliders, roof racks, etc)

by dvanbramer88 » Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:09 pm

I'm at the drawing board stage of designing a radiator skid plate for Josh's TB. I have viewed these threads:

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=177

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=2282&fb_source=message

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.p ... =skidplate

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.p ... 293&page=2

I like Fishstick's design the most as I have most of those materials on hand. I would only need to pick up a $7 piece of 1/2 rod. I also like Beamer's design as it looks stronger and I also have plenty of angle iron on hand too. I would still use the hardware, but i would also weld the pieces of angle that form the W together.

My questions, as brought up in the "official design thread" for MDB's radiator skid. How important are the ventilation holes? And how important is it that they are on a surface parallel to the radiator? I would imagine that the trans could run a little warmer if you blocked off the bottom edge of the radiator. Also, is the aluminum fin/base board looking thing that runs in front of the bottom edge of the radiator for the Air Conditioner or the transmission? As blocking that with a skid plate would reduce the performance/efficiency of the A/C. EDIT: (Answered my own question, apparently it is for the power steering pump)

The problem with Fishstick's design is that ventilation holes would be on an angled surface.

@Fishstick's : Did you run into any cooling problems because of the design of your skid plate?


Now because i feel the support brackets that are featured on the MDB skid are out of my abilities, and the weaker materials i will be using, we will go ahead and call this a Radiator "Guard" as it will not be as nearly as strong as an MDB skid.
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by fishsticks » Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:45 pm

Mine never covered the PS cooler, the bumper did. No cooling issues.
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by bartonmd » Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:48 pm

dvanbramer88 wrote:I'm at the drawing board stage of designing a radiator skid plate for Josh's TB. I have viewed these threads:

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=177

viewtopic.php?f=27&t=2282&fb_source=message

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.p ... =skidplate

http://forums.trailvoy.com/showthread.p ... 293&page=2

I like Fishstick's design the most as I have most of those materials on hand. I would only need to pick up a $7 piece of 1/2 rod. I also like Beamer's design as it looks stronger and I also have plenty of angle iron on hand too. I would still use the hardware, but i would also weld the pieces of angle that form the W together.

My questions, as brought up in the "official design thread" for MDB's radiator skid. How important are the ventilation holes? And how important is it that they are on a surface parallel to the radiator? I would imagine that the trans could run a little warmer if you blocked off the bottom edge of the radiator. Also, is the aluminum fin/base board looking thing that runs in front of the bottom edge of the radiator for the Air Conditioner or the transmission? As blocking that with a skid plate would reduce the performance/efficiency of the A/C. EDIT: (Answered my own question, apparently it is for the power steering pump)

The problem with Fishstick's design is that ventilation holes would be on an angled surface.

@Fishstick's : Did you run into any cooling problems because of the design of your skid plate?


Now because i feel the support brackets that are featured on the MDB skid are out of my abilities, and the weaker materials i will be using, we will go ahead and call this a Radiator "Guard" as it will not be as nearly as strong as an MDB skid.



I can tell you that even with the holes in mine, my trans runs a little warmer than it did, when I've got the A/C on. Without the A/C, it never gets over 190F, even still; and it never used to get over 200F, stock, even towing a car trailer, but it gets ~215F with the A/C on, now. Of course, the stock bumper had a funneled scoop down there, so that makes sense.

The little radiator lookin' thing across the bottom front is the power steering cooler. The transmission cooler is an oil-to-water and is inside the bottom end tank of the radiator.

If you're going to do one like Mosssr33's, bolt it to the bottom of the bumper support, so the materials take the load, not the 1/4-20 bolts... in tension...

Mike
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by dvanbramer88 » Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:50 pm

fishsticks wrote:Mine never covered the PS cooler, the bumper did. No cooling issues.


Ok, the pipe mounted directly in front of the bottom of the radiator. I vaguely remember pics of it, but the 2 good ones got their links broken when the site moved.
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by dvanbramer88 » Sun Jul 01, 2012 8:55 pm

bartonmd wrote:

I can tell you that even with the holes in mine, my trans runs a little warmer than it did, when I've got the A/C on. Without the A/C, it never gets over 190F, even still; and it never used to get over 200F, stock, even towing a car trailer, but it gets ~215F with the A/C on, now. Of course, the stock bumper had a funneled scoop down there, so that makes sense.

The little radiator lookin' thing across the bottom front is the power steering cooler. The transmission cooler is an oil-to-water and is inside the bottom end tank of the radiator.

If you're going to do one like Mosssr33's, bolt it to the bottom of the bumper support, so the materials take the load, not the 1/4-20 bolts... in tension...

Mike


Right now I'm torn between Donny's design and Beamer's design. I don't really like Mosssr33's design. I think I'm leaning toward beamer's design because I feel like the angle iron "W" welded and bolted up will be a little stouter against impact than Donny's design. But at the same time, MIP is pretty strong too. I like that flat sheet design of Beamer's as well. I can't decide.....
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by bartonmd » Sun Jul 01, 2012 9:05 pm

dvanbramer88 wrote:
bartonmd wrote:

I can tell you that even with the holes in mine, my trans runs a little warmer than it did, when I've got the A/C on. Without the A/C, it never gets over 190F, even still; and it never used to get over 200F, stock, even towing a car trailer, but it gets ~215F with the A/C on, now. Of course, the stock bumper had a funneled scoop down there, so that makes sense.

The little radiator lookin' thing across the bottom front is the power steering cooler. The transmission cooler is an oil-to-water and is inside the bottom end tank of the radiator.

If you're going to do one like Mosssr33's, bolt it to the bottom of the bumper support, so the materials take the load, not the 1/4-20 bolts... in tension...

Mike


Right now I'm torn between Donny's design and Beamer's design. I don't really like Mosssr33's design. I think I'm leaning toward beamer's design because I feel like the angle iron "W" welded and bolted up will be a little stouter against impact than Donny's design. But at the same time, MIP is pretty strong too. I like that flat sheet design of Beamer's as well. I can't decide.....


Yeah, I would do something other than Mossrr's design. Or rather, I'd at least put something across under the radiator that would add a little support.

Mike
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by fishsticks » Mon Jul 02, 2012 1:41 am

I would do a hybrid of the two designs. Make a "frame" like mine and cover it with 1/4" plate like Beamer's.
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by dvanbramer88 » Mon Jul 02, 2012 11:43 am

fishsticks wrote:I would do a hybrid of the two designs. Make a "frame" like mine and cover it with 1/4" plate like Beamer's.


MDB and I ended up talking on Facebook Chat for about an hour last night. That is what the plan is. Im going to do the angle iron, But not 3 stacks of it, 1 or 2 stacks. That will take a lot of vertical weight and a good amount of horizontal force. Run a frame, either really small angle or 1/2 inch rod down to the oil skid. And than run a frame up from the angle to the bumper bar. I made a couple drawings last night. And skin it with 2 pieces of sheet. One for the top section and one for the bottom section.
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by Beamer » Mon Jul 02, 2012 7:13 pm

I changed my oil and filter yesterday which requires dropping the 1/4" plate. I used a rolling floor jack to lower it and roll it out of the way, but when it got off balance and slid to the floor it reminded me how heavy it is. I am very pleased with the protection it provides. I'm not sure it would support the weight of the TB like Mike's, but I wanted the protection from stray rocks, sticks, cornstalks etc when hunting and driving around in recently plowed fields. It would take a decent hit to bend that 1/4" plate.
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