Floridian in SoCal

[stansky]

Originally from South Florida, got a marine engineering/naval architecture degree in New York, just moved to SoCal.
I've got a '06 2WD with ~260k on it right now. Yup 2WD... with the right mods I should be able to get pretty far, I hope. I'm just looking to get stuck a little less.

Anyways this is where I'm starting:

and heres where I am:


Since then I've added:
-Rola Vortec cargo basket
-OEM fogs
Not sure why the fogs say 24V on them but they seem to work on 12v just fine. Attached them to the bumper using a tie strap as a bracket and some thickened epoxy. Not the prettiest solution but it's easy to aim them while the epoxy is curing!
-2x Harbour Freight 30amp halogens mounted on the roof rack fairing.
-intake resonator delete

Future Plans:
1.) Axle Swap
Theres an 07' TB EXT with a G80 at my local pick your part. Ready for an axle swap and locker ASAP. I'm assuming I'll have to replace the clutchpack in the G80 if I plan to use it for any amount of time. I would eventually like to put some sort of lunchbox carrier in there, so it may not even be worth trying to replace the clutchpack.
2.) Suspension
At 160k I'm assuming my coilover and shocks are pretty fatigued. So I might as well replace the whole suspension if I plan on doing a lift right?
-Marc MC3" lift
correct me if this won't work please
Rear
-Moog 81114 ~equivalent to tahoe Z71?
-Bilstein (33-185552) 5100 Series Shock Absorber
Front
-Moog 81069
-Bilstein 24-103336
3.) Re-Gearing
Probably should do this the same time I replace the diff carrier. Although is proper mating of the gears difficult? Should I get this done in a shop?
-4.10 ring and pinion
4.) Tires
-Marc MC 1.5" spacers
Not set on this, will depend on the craigslist market when the time comes. Will have to look at tire chart to see how big I can go with the above setup.
-265ish/16/75 A/Ts
-Bigger tire will necessitate a different way to carry the spare. Havent figured that one out yet.
6. ) Onboard Air
similar to TrailXs with a built in compressor/cooling fan circuit. wondering why I've never seen an airup/down sort of bridle system. Something with a an adjustable pressure relief valve that can fill/dump two tires at a time. an unloader is a good idea too, although that can be done manually.
7. ) Misc
-Garbage can delete
wondering if JB weld will do for the straight pipe joint, don't have access to a welder
-Tow hooks
why don't TBs come with these and why are they so expensive. Also whats with cantilevering them from the frame, seems really bad for shock loading.

side note:
It seems like everyone has done a lift uses spacers. Why can't we buy longer springs/shocks with a similar spring rate? Is that an option/ why don't i see this?

[HawkeyeC25]

Wow - that's a long list!! Great looking truck I'll try to answer what I can - and welcome to the site!!
1) EXT Rear end is the way to go for being able to upgrade gears/lockers. Many more options for the 8.6" vs the 8". As for the G80, if it's not terribly high mileage, it might still be fine. As far as rebuilding it, the G80 tends to blow pieces apart before wearing out the clutch packs (such as the teeth on the engagement gear tend to shear off). If you are planning to repair the G80, you might be better off finding one on eBay with lower miles that you can drop in. The go for about $150-$250 typically. This you can just swap out. BUT, if you are going to go aftermarket lunchbox locker, you are better off to start with an open diff, or go right to a full Detroit Locker (like I did) and not even deal with any stock differential - open or G80.

2) This looks right to me!

3) I had my 4.56's put in by a shop. There is a lot that goes in to setting new gears. Not that it can't be done by the DIY'er with the right tools and some patience, I just didn't want to learn on my new set of gears, and I am close to specialty Ring and Pinion shops. I left this one to the pros. And yes - do it at the same time you make a choice on differentials/lockers.

4) I think that size will be too big to clear the stock spacing to the upper ball joint (others should pipe in on this one). MarcMC's spacers are the way to go!!! Then you can get whatever fits your lift and body clearance! The biggest thing they do is pull the tire away from the upper ball joint.

5) Does not exist

6) I'm guessing not a lot of people on here deal with airing down on most of their excursions. I did a couple times this summer and used a smaller portable pump. Onboard air would be cool tho! Can't wait to see what you come up with!

7) Get ride of the can I would just find a local shop to weld up a straight pipe. Shouldn't be that expensive.
The tow hooks are something that always bothered me. Like you mention, half of the hook is attached to the thin sheet metal of the front bumper support. Junk! Fab some of your own, or use that front 2" plate if it's mounted well enough!!

Side note:
The overall length of the shock really can't get too much longer without causing the CV's to bind. With the stock setup, at full droop, the CV's are pretty much at their limit. This also means that longer springs won't do you any good, but stiffer ones do. So people use them as well for some lift, but others who put on heavy steel bumpers need BOTH stiffer springs AND top spring spacers to add more pre-load. But for every inch of lift you gain, you lose down travel (droop). The nature of the beast!

[rScherzer]

I can speak on what i was able to fit for the spare tire. I managed to get a LT265 70 R17 in there. It barely touches the pan hard bar, just enough to make it kinda shiny. I just did a rear axle swap last night to mine. I decided to go with a stock SWB Trailblazer rear diff with 4.10 and g80. If I break that then I will look into a bigger diff. As for the front springs I kept mine and put Marks 3" lift with a set of Bilstein shocks. I would recommend doing that all at the same time. I didnt and ended up going back in after a few weeks.