Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Ring/Pinion Gear Brands

G80, GU6, GT4, GT5, WTF? This section is for gearing and driveline stuff.

by Jrgunn5150 » Mon Nov 14, 2016 12:13 am

HawkeyeC25 wrote:Haven't decided yet - probably comes down to how much someone will charge me vs how much I want to learn how to do it :mechanic:



In the Ionia/GR area, the typical price is 500 an axle. Of course, they probably don't know what a job a Trailblazer front diff is to remove lol.
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by mason10198 » Mon Nov 14, 2016 12:16 am

HawkeyeC25 wrote:Haven't decided yet - probably comes down to how much someone will charge me vs how much I want to learn how to do it :mechanic:

Same here. I'll just have to decide when the time comes

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by larryk » Mon Nov 14, 2016 3:10 pm

ErikSS wrote:Larry, a location would help people know if they want it! Gear ratio?


Bolingbrook, 3.42. From an 04 EXT
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by HawkeyeC25 » Tue Nov 15, 2016 12:58 am

Jrgunn5150 wrote:
HawkeyeC25 wrote:Haven't decided yet - probably comes down to how much someone will charge me vs how much I want to learn how to do it :mechanic:



In the Ionia/GR area, the typical price is 500 an axle. Of course, they probably don't know what a job a Trailblazer front diff is to remove lol.


I've got a couple quotes for a bench rebuild of the front axle (since mine is now out). It's between $225 and $250 labor. Doesn't sound bad. Thoughts?
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by Jrgunn5150 » Tue Nov 15, 2016 1:19 am

That sounds great, for the peace of mind, I'd definitely pay that to have it done.
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by HawkeyeC25 » Tue Nov 15, 2016 11:17 am

Yeah I think I agree. And these are from actual Ring & Pinion shops (not just auto repair shops) so I would hope it would be money well spent.
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by Jrgunn5150 » Tue Nov 15, 2016 6:46 pm

HawkeyeC25 wrote:Yeah I think I agree. And these are from actual Ring & Pinion shops (not just auto repair shops) so I would hope it would be money well spent.



I have that problem, I think, man, i'll just let someone else do it. Then I talk to three people, and they're all stupid, and I wind up doing it myself lol. DTS is right in Ionia, I may give them a shout.
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by larryk » Tue Nov 15, 2016 11:11 pm

It's all about the special tools. I rebuilt mine myself, and it's dead nuts on spec with literally every measure. Used all Timken bearings also....

Anyhow, I probably spent twice as much money on the special tools to do this right than the actual rebuild parts themselves. Wise way to spend money? No. But wise investment to do it myself and get it right...Absolutely
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by Trail X » Mon Nov 21, 2016 6:30 pm

The only real special tool is a dial indicator and a in-lb torque wrench. Not a big deal really. After doing two front end gear setups myself, its really not that bad, but it helps to have a friend nearby that's setup a gear set before to help you. Once you get it apart, it doesn't feel as daunting. Just follow this thread step by step: viewtopic.php?f=72&t=5441
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by Timberwolf » Thu Dec 15, 2016 9:48 pm

I'm south of Ionia a little... In Battle Creek. Following this thread to see how it goes (hoping you pull the trigger and become our MI Guinea Pig) :lurk:
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by HawkeyeC25 » Fri Dec 16, 2016 2:58 pm

I got the work completed a few weeks ago! $225 for the front axle, and $250 for the rear! All new bearings, seals, and 4.56's!!!!
I also went with a full Detroit Locker in the rear :viking:
But getting it all in the truck will take some time... haven't posted much on here yet, but I tore my engine down to find a phantom chirp. I'll probably put a thread up here about it if folks are interested. Cam took a beating from a bad lifter and found the cam bearings had some metal shavings make their way across the surface. Ended up pulling the whole thing - REBUILD TIME!!

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by Timberwolf » Sun Dec 25, 2016 2:05 pm

HawkeyeC25 wrote:I got the work completed a few weeks ago! $225 for the front axle, and $250 for the rear! All new bearings, seals, and 4.56's!!!!
I also went with a full Detroit Locker in the rear :viking:

What did you supply, and what did they supply? Seriously considering this now. I assume you brought in the gears, locker and differentials, and they supplied the rest?
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by HawkeyeC25 » Thu Dec 29, 2016 2:28 am

I supplied the gears, locker, and rebuild kit including bearings and seals for both front and rear diffs. The prices are for labor with me just dropping off all the parts and axles still assembled.
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by Anthony Hernandez » Thu Dec 29, 2016 12:11 pm

Craig you notice any "slop" in your acceleration? Like it takes a second to grab now?
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by HARDTRAILZ » Thu Dec 29, 2016 12:16 pm

Why would new gears add slop? Unless they are setup horribly there should be no slop. Lower gears should aid in quicker pickup, not a delay.
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by HawkeyeC25 » Thu Dec 29, 2016 4:27 pm

My engine is out and completely torn down... Won't know how they drive until spring:P
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by Anthony Hernandez » Thu Dec 29, 2016 10:08 pm

Mine are set at .006 but they grab really quick and jerk like hell, almost feels like you can feel a slip from cvs all the way back or something, it always chinks and chunks. At first I thought it was the tranny but it isn't. Almost thought the trans case needs rebuilt and the ive joints are bad.
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by HawkeyeC25 » Thu Dec 29, 2016 10:21 pm

With hypoid gears, there should be little to no observable lash as Hardtrailz says. If you feel that much slip, it is obviously somewhere in your driveline. Either trans clutch (most likely), tcase (not very likely), ujoints (very possible), or possibly some stripped out splines on your axle shaft.
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by HawkeyeC25 » Thu Dec 29, 2016 10:25 pm

As a test, put it into park while rolling forward about 1-2 mph. When the park pawl engages, the vehicle should only rock an inch or two forward and backwards. If it's more than this, it's downstream of the trans. If it's pretty solid, then the problem is in your trans.
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by Anthony Hernandez » Fri Dec 30, 2016 1:38 pm

I'll try that. I also talked to a performance guy and he said .006 is the highest you'll want, he said .003 is better and I may want to get it redone.
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