SAS SWAP planning .

[JamesDub]

Hello everyone .

I have managed to have the pass side intermediate housing assembly and cv fail and am really just going to have to get serious about a SAS.... finaly . I am looking to start it in the next 6 months and am just researching which parts to use . I am hoping the 3 members that have gone this route and the few others in the planning stage can share there opinions before I start dropping cash on parts . Looking to run 37s with 4.88 gears or 5.13 .

I currently have the 8.6 EXT rear axle with the Powertrax NoSlip locker and will be keeping that setup. Will do a leaf spring conversion .

I want a D44 for the front also leaf sprung and probably just use another Powertrax NoSlip for it . I want to reuse my current wheels so I plan on adapter spacers for the D44 .
Now if I use a Rubicon JK D44 axle it should be 61.9" wms which keeps it close to our 63" wms oem front . I am looking to mate this all to the NP231C from an S10 as I've read on here that thats the TC to get . What about these guys.... http://www.jbconversions.com/index2.php?pc=6 , is the SYE helpfull it the rear driveline setup ?
Which steering box setup and hydo assist ?

I will not be doing the work myself , looking for fab shops in my area . Like ...
http://www.extremegearoffroad.com/straight_axle.htm
or
http://www.wfoconcepts.com/AboutWFO/index.html

So help me figure this out . Needs to be a reliable daily driver .

James

ETA : Why has my TB been moved to "mall rated rigs" , thats just wrong .

[fishsticks]

I would sell your rear axle setup to someone on here and pick up an axle already set up for leafs. 14 bolts and rear 60s are cheap and easy to build or find already built. You really don't want to run a 5.13 on an 8.6" ring gear, the teeth are way too thin.

SYE the transfer case, just do it. Drivelines are cheap.

Don't get too obsessed with keeping WMS measurements exact. 35s hit frame on steering lock, 37s will be worse. Some extra room wouldn't hurt. There's always the 78-79 F150 high pinion D44 axles (use Chevy outers for proper bolt pattern). Assuming you're going leafs in front as well since this is a "budget build." Forget the Teraflex housing. No reason to waste that much money on a D44. Get a D60 if you're concerned about strength.

You are going to need a LOT of lift. I think Steve (chevycrew) said his was about 13" + 1" of body lift. No one is running the rear sump pan as far as I can recall.

Steve ran an IFS Toyota steering box. Trail Gear makes hydro assist setups with the proper stroke for a D44 and the parts to tap a Toyota box. I have some hydro parts I'll make you a deal on. I need to measure my ram and see what stroke it is. I'm going full hydro in the crawler so I don't need any of it anymore. I believe the stock TB pump pushes enough fluid for hydro assist with the EXT pulley installed. Check with Steve to make sure.

Getting ABS to work... Let us know how that goes.


Hope you have deep pockets if a shop is doing all of this.

[mikekey]

63 posts and no trail reports. That means mall rated here now. there are guys with 35's and 2wd on The nation. If it's any consolation, your truck inspired us to go 35's. And I've been wanting to go green for awhile. But the miss won't have it. She likes desert tan.

Good luck with this project. You'll be in the minority for sure.

[The Roadie]

JamesDub is back?!?!?!?!

Welcome, comrade! We've had a bit of a re-organization, and to inspire new members to post trail rides, we hold out the carrot of more ranks where "mall rated" is where they start.

As long as I'm part owner of the site, you are NOT going to be known as mall-rated, trust me. The Bald Mountain expedition showed you weren't just bling.

You inspired me with the mere possibility of lifting the platform, and I can't tell you how many noobs I've tried to cost the same thousands of $$ that you cost me pursuing the dream.

Let me go work on that little rank thing.....
Welcome back!!!

[JamesDub]

Thanks Roadie . Good to be back .

So is there an agreement that the Rubicon axle would work ? Theres a built one I'm watching for sale .
From the ad :

I have a Dana 44 from a JK Rubicon for sale, pulled from my 2010 JK at 24,000 miles. Complete, end to end including calipers.
This axle has about every good addition of beef available including the following:
RCV shafts
Poly outer shell kit
Poly C gussets
Poly truss
Poly shock extenders
Poly and Currie brackets.
Reid Knuckles
Poly ball joints
5.13 gears
Riddler diff cover
Lube Locker
boxed in LCAs
new rotors about 1500 miles ago
new brake pads (zero miles)
factory e-locker
*extra* long side shaft
added attachment points for towing and a suck down point.





I could switch out the gears to 4.88 . Cut the shock , spring mounts off that aren't needed .
Trying to stay away from a fullsize to avoid cutting it to size and having to also buy new wheels that would allow manual locking hubs . Hows the e-locker on these Rubis ?

My GF says to stop looking at axle porn .

ETA: I was looking at tire/gear calculators and it shows a gear ratio of about 4.56 , so would you guys run 4.56 or 4.88 ?

[The Roadie]

I would do a 44. My boss regeared his Jeep to 4.56, put in two ARB air lockers, went up to 33's, and didn't upgrade his Dana 35. I mocked that plan.

But then, he follows ME when we wheel together, and complains I'm too aggressive.

[fishsticks]

I could switch out the gears to 4.88 . Cut the shock , spring mounts off that aren't needed .
Trying to stay away from a fullsize to avoid cutting it to size and having to also buy new wheels that would allow manual locking hubs . Hows the e-locker on these Rubis ?

You're buying wheels anyway, since Jeep axles use 5 lug. Some Googling shows the Ford HP44 is 65.5" WMS to WMS. That's close to IFS TBs with wheel spacers. Make the difference up in wheel offset.

JK D44s are 61.9" WMS-WMS if the forums are correct. You'll be grinding everything off that axle if you are doing leafs. Lots of wasted Poly Performance pieces you'll be paying for.

ETA: I was looking at tire/gear calculators and it shows a gear ratio of about 4.56 , so would you guys run 4.56 or 4.88 ?

I had 4.56 gears with 35s and would have liked more. 4.88s minimum.

[JamesDub]

You're buying wheels anyway, since Jeep axles use 5 lug.

Can't that be corrected with adapter spacers ?
5x5.5 to 6x5 (5x139.7 to 6x127) $120
http://shop.adapterkings.com/product.sc ... tegoryId=2

Sounds better than tossing my $1400.00 wheels and buying new ones .

[HARDTRAILZ]

I have a Ford HP44 for dreams of a swap one day. Will be my choice unless a cheap 60 finds me.

[fishsticks]

You're buying wheels anyway, since Jeep axles use 5 lug.

Can't that be corrected with adapter spacers ?
5x5.5 to 6x5 (5x139.7 to 6x127) $120
http://shop.adapterkings.com/product.sc ... tegoryId=2

Sounds better than tossing my $1400.00 wheels and buying new ones .

Pardon my bluntness, as I mean no disrespect, but I think you are trying to save money in the wrong places and plan to waste it in others.

[v7guy]

I'd be looking at the 5:13 considering 37s.
The biggest regret I've repeatedly heard from Mike is that his rig is so tall. He really wishes it was lower. In his case removing the body lift would require relocating a massive amount of the SAS swap components.
You could bring it a bit lower with the rear sump pan, but you'd want a bigger filter, cooler, etc to make up for the loss in oil volume. The rear sump pan Mike had, originally leaked, supposedly the new ones are a higher quality casting and won't leak, but I haven't read about anyone having one in use. I think at this point I'd get a stock pan on ebay and then cut it up and weld it up as a rear sump, or hell, maybe just make one out of some 1/4" plate. I believe the oil pans are structural to the block like on the LS motors so it would need some heft.

I wouldn't bother with spacers and adapters for wheels. Get wheels that fit the axle. There's got to be plenty of cheap options.

[dirty anton]

If You Do A Whole Lot Of Daily Driving The 488 Gears Are Great With 37S. If I Did It again I Would Do 513S Because This Isn't My Daily Driver. However I Do Drive It Alot On The Road. But Have My Little Daily Driver For Long Distances. And Yea Doing It Over I Would Pull The 3 In body Lift. I Have Never Had An Issue Of Being Tippy But Like The Idea Of A Lower Center Of Gravity. No Abs Hasn't Bin An Issue Really And I Don't Drive Like Crazy In It And Tailgate People Regardless. Go Sye On Tc. Long Travel Drive Shafts From Tom Woods Are Very Affordable For A Custom Job. Plate The Frame And Sleeve It For The Steer Box!! Outside Of Our PMS If I Think Of More Helpful Hints I Will Post. Oh Yea Get A Swing Away From Barton. my Tire Mount Has Bin An Ongoing Project But Almost There. It's A Heavy Ads Tire On That!

[anthonyl79]

So any update on this? I am planning to do mine this winter. Neighbor has a 44 with Chevy outters already. Next idea that I have been throwing around is a locker or spool in the front. If I am running manual hubs then why not run a spool?

[JamesDub]

Sore subject right now. Dropped it off a month ago to get the sas done at a local shop and had to pick it up the next day and put it on hold for at least 6 months.just bought 5 acres of land and a toyhauler and I'm tapped out on cash now. As soon as i can pay some bills off I'll be sas. I have all the parts needed.

[Nakashige]

Look at my build it was done on a f250 79 Dana 44 I have issues just think before you spend the coin.. there really to heavy for 44s

[ErikSS]

Look at my build it was done on a f250 79 Dana 44 I have issues just think before you spend the coin.. there really to heavy for 44s

You feel that a Dana 44 is heavy for a 44" tire, or more heavy than other Dana 44s?
What issues do you have? It's hard to imagine a large enough weight difference between older and newer Dana 44s to have a noticeable affect on performance.

[HARDTRAILZ]

Our trucks are too heavy for a dana 44.

The 44 he is running is about the most desirable of any Dana 44

[ErikSS]

I agree that our trucks are too heavy for 44's. Especially if you're going to be beating on them. (I've seen pics of his truck. He shouldn't have a 44.)

[Nakashige]

i am running KM2 35s and IROK 37s With the 1978-79 Ford F250 Dana 44. I am E-Locked 4.88s with Chromo Shafts. I have destroyed the drivers side shaft inter and outer once. NP241c Case I am on my 4th. Currently I am gutting the truck to see if by chopping the body off if I can get it to a point where the 44 will work with a built TCase Such as an Atlas. Looking at putting a LQ4 Motor and a 4L80 or 4L60 in it.

[HARDTRAILZ]

I agree that our trucks are too heavy for 44's. Especially if you're going to be beating on them. (I've seen pics of his truck. He shouldn't have a 44.)

You feel that a Dana 44 is heavy for a 44" tire, or more heavy than other Dana 44s?