Offroad Trailblazers and Envoys

Getting my ducks in a row

G80, GU6, GT4, GT5, WTF? This section is for gearing and driveline stuff.

by ErikSS » Sun Oct 06, 2013 8:14 pm

I rent the tool from Autozone. Seems like Regulator had a trick for it though. Maybe he'd respond to a PM.
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by Moots1288 » Sun Oct 06, 2013 8:24 pm

Shdwdrgn wrote:ok progress is disappointingly slow... however I have the disconnect out on the bench and almost disassembled. HOW do I get the outside seal out? I punched the bearing from inside and have it flopping against the seal, but I can't get the seal to budge.

Also, I read I'm supposed to remove the center axle from the disconnect side of the oil pan, but it doesn't seem to want to move, and I have no idea how I would grab ahold of it except with my fingertips...

Shdwdrgn wrote:I'm trying to follow Regulator's suggestion for pulling the diff up through the engine compartment... Everything is loose on the bottom end (finally got the half-shaft out, and the diff is unbolted and popped loose from the pan)... HOW do you pull out the fan? I see four bolts on the pulley, and four bolts holding the blade to the fan clutch... but I don't see how the fan actually comes out?
take out those 4 bolts and then get a chain and hook it to the fan somehow and UN screw that big nut and the whole fan and shroud come out together
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by Regulator1175 » Sun Oct 06, 2013 8:43 pm

I replace one of the 4 bolts with a longer one threaded through a chain. Then take the chain to the drivers side control arm and wrap it and bolt the chain to itself snug. Then it is just a matter of getting a big wrench to break the fan from the water pump. The fan and shroud will lift out in one piece.

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by Shdwdrgn » Sun Oct 06, 2013 9:37 pm

When you say UNscrew, you mean the regular way, right? Its not a left-hand thread?

Of course my crescent wrench only opens up to about 33mm... just shy of this stupid thing.
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by Regulator1175 » Sun Oct 06, 2013 9:46 pm

Yes, it is a standard thread.
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by Shdwdrgn » Sun Oct 06, 2013 9:56 pm

Ugh, must be really stuck on good. Also still trying to figure out how you get to all the bolts on the alternator (looks like there are 6?), and then I have to figure out how to get the AC pump. I don't have any tools to unhook the AC... sure hoping it will move far enough.

Does the part of the fan shroud bolted to the radiator also have to come out, or did you just remove the fan blade portion?
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by dvanbramer88 » Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:04 pm

In regards to the fan, usually if you put your wrench on that big nut, and give it a good smack to break if free, it will pretty much spin right off. And same thing when you put it back on, after its snug, give it a smack to lock it down.


My motor has a lifting point similar to this one built in. I know Dirty Bacon just runs the chain to here. I've done the same on my truck. If you dont have chain readily available, you can back out 2 bolts on the fan pulley and wedge a screw driver between them to hold the pulley. It works, but can be a PITA. The chain is definatly easier.
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by Shdwdrgn » Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:06 pm

Oh I have the chain, I tied it to the lower frame, I just can't get the nut to budge.
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by dvanbramer88 » Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:08 pm

Can you put a pipe on the end of your wrench? OR my other advice would be BIGGER HAMMER!

IME, that nut will usually break free with a good smack. But if a good smack doesn't do it, try a big pipe on your wrench.
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by Shdwdrgn » Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:09 pm

That's my problem, I don't have a crescent wrench big enough to get on it. The only thing I have that fits is some slip-joint pliers.
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by TBYODA » Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:17 pm

Shdwdrgn wrote:When you say UNscrew, you mean the regular way, right? Its not a left-hand thread?

Of course my crescent wrench only opens up to about 33mm... just shy of this stupid thing.

You got grinder? Take off some steel, now you got tool for the next time.
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by ErikSS » Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:18 pm

Shdwdrgn wrote:That's my problem, I don't have a crescent wrench big enough to get on it. The only thing I have that fits is some slip-joint pliers.


What about a pipe wrench? If you can figure out the size you might be able to rent the socket from Autozone.

And don't you dare grind either the tool or the bolt. haha
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by dvanbramer88 » Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:22 pm

Shdwdrgn wrote:That's my problem, I don't have a crescent wrench big enough to get on it. The only thing I have that fits is some slip-joint pliers.


I see. This is definatly one of those situations where there is a right tool for the job.



ErikSS wrote:
What about a pipe wrench?



That should work.


ErikSS wrote:
If you can figure out the size you might be able to rent the socket from Autozone.



Good luck trying to put a socket on that nut... This is an open wrench only situation.
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by Regulator1175 » Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:33 pm

Yes, it is certainly a right tool for the job kind of thing. 1 1/2" box wrench and a 10 lb sledge.

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by Shdwdrgn » Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:39 pm

10 POUND??? Eesh it better not take THAT much force. Problem is, everyone is closed by now. I already bought an 18MM socket and a 35MM axle socket today. Stupid metric. Guess I'm done for tonight, and no way to get to work tomorrow.

Even removing the fan, alternator, and AC, I'm still not seeing how you had enough room to fish the diff up through there. Must have been a tight squeeze! And you say you can do this whole job in 3 hours now? I've put in almost 10 hours today, and still can't get the old diff out of the vehicle.
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by dvanbramer88 » Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:47 pm

You'll probably be alright with a 2 or 3 pound hammer. I've been able to accomplish most jobs with the 2lb hammer i keep in my tool bag.

And in all fairness, Jeff, you definatly get bonus points for simply attempting this. A big percentage of people out there don't wrench on their own vehicles, let alone attempt and axle swap and a diff swap as part of a re-gear. The first time for someone doing a new job can be slow. But once you have more experience with your vehicle things will always go faster in the future. Little things like remembering what size bolts are and what socket/extension combination works best for a particular bolt shaves time off the job. On repeat attempts you'll spend less time trying/guessing and more time turning the wrenches.


So for all your work and progress today :cheers:
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by Regulator1175 » Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:51 pm

I have done it a couple times, so there isn't that much of a learning curve for me. Plus having had everything off, then putting the bolts back in with anti seize helps in tearing it down in the future. Good luck, sorry to hear you are having so many struggles.
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by Shdwdrgn » Sun Oct 06, 2013 10:58 pm

Today I really miss my old '74 Pontiac. Everything was easier to get to, and I didn't need any special tools for anything. Then again, it also wasn't 4WD.

I'm not having much problem guessing bolt sizes. The biggest issue is there's a lot of really large bolt heads in sizes I don't have. If I decide to go the alternate route and pull out the steering, I need to get at least a 21mm socket to be able to pull off that bracket that runs across the frame underneath the steering. I have no idea what else will be required beyond that, but I'm starting to think that route might be easier that trying to get all this crap off the side of the engine.

Oh, by the way... when I go to put the axles back together, what do you do to get those C-clips to snap back in again? I noticed there seems to be some sort of slider inside the CV boots... do you just use that with the weight of the axle as a ram to snap it back in place?
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by dvanbramer88 » Sun Oct 06, 2013 11:23 pm

You can try and align the CV as straight as possible and hit the hub end with a hammer. I found it difficult to get that to work.

I have been successful with putting a large flat blade screw driver in this groove, and hitting the screw driver with a hammer.

601345-01.jpg
601345-01.jpg (19.16 KiB) Viewed 11144 times


Another tip would be to use a little grease on the c-clip to help it stay centered on the shaft.
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by Shdwdrgn » Mon Oct 07, 2013 10:49 am

All right, back to the grind... I think I'm going to abandon the engine route and try to get in through the steering rack today. Anything I should know about removing any of those frame brackets or the steering rack? Anything I need to do to keep the steering in alignment when I pull it apart, or will everything stay self-contained?
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